K. Well it's a zero decked block. Flat top piston .030 over . H beam rods hand has a comp cam HYDRAULIC ROLLER – High performance for street cars with 2200+ stall, 9:1+ compression, headers. Hyd. Hyd. 2200-5800 34-432-9 XR280HR 282 288 .050 duration 230 236 .lift .521 .532 ..lobe 110
But it too much cam for enjoyable driving. Yes i have a 2400 rpm stall convertor...my gearing is too high for this setup. And it either change gears and make it more crazy or less cam and enjoy a good running 390
The reason why most of us are so vague is probably because of the data that you've given. The subject line says close to 10:1 compression, but the post I'm quoting says 9:1. Can you nail that down closer?
When I used to use Edelbrock heads, I found that they don't need a lot of duration split. I usually split them 3-4° on a street engine. That in itself will cut down the amount of overlap. As I mentioned up above, you don't necessarily need a "smaller" cam, maybe by a degree or two, but that shelf cam just has a lot of overlap for your application. You didn't mention whether or not you have power brakes, etc., so that overlap number will depend on a lot of variables.
You have listed a few Howards cams but you have to watch a lot of the lobes that they use for FE cams. They can be pretty aggressive, which will be noisy and will require a little more valve spring. Any time that you subtract the .050" duration from the advertised duration (that's called hydraulic intensity) on a hydraulic roller and the difference is 52-53°, there's a higher risk of noise and a higher risk of losing control of the valvetrain at higher rpms. There are a few more variables that can play into that, so not every case will be that way, but for the most part, I stay away from lobe aggression like that on an FE. Works ok sometimes on a lighter exhaust valve, but generally not on a heavier intake valve. Ford FE stock (and Edelbrock) valvetrain is pretty heavy, with 3/8" stem, larger diameter valves.
You also can't go by the notes in the catalog on what characteristics the cam will have. I'm not even real sure why they put those in there because cam behavior changes with displacement, head flow, and a few other variables. These cam companies don't know what size engine you have, but will tell you that the cam will be good for "1200-5200 rpm". They don't know if your heads have been ported, or even which cylinder head you have. Without knowing about your engine, there's about a 10% chance of nailing down the powerband. It's best to reach out to an engine builder who has experience with the engine family that you're working on, to see how a particular cam would behave. Don't even begin to trust them on the required valve springs either...