Getting Cheap, Must be Old Man Syndrome Kicking in

[Thumperbird]

First question is the cheap skate in me:
1.  Do you all think the horn relay, picture without pigtail, would work as a substitute for the brake relay pictured? 
     The wire on the brake relay is the coil return, I suspect the return is through the case in the horn relay. 
     Connection layout looks to be the same.  $50 for the brake relay, $20 for the horn relay on MACS site.

2.  I installed new leaf springs last winter as the driver side was sagging a bit and the clamps on the leafs were
     loose, I suspect they were original.  This is a 65 Thunderbird with a moderate 445.
     It seemed like less sag after doing the repair but now after beating on it some more this summer the sag is back
     some.  Is it reasonable to suspect that I am some how deforming the leaf on the driver side from hard launches? 
     Does not seem like this should be the case, it hooks up ok but not that great.  Not a suspension guy so not sure
     what to expect here.

Thanks.

[HarleyJack17]

I doubt the relay may work but "could". Problem I see is the brake relay has 3 posts plus what appears to be a ground.  That horn relay, if like newer Fords (1975) does not ground.  The question should be why is the ground needed on the brake relay?

[BattlestarGalactic]

What is a brake relay for?  Beyond that they should perform a similar function.

Leaf springs?  They will continue to sag(settle)as they age.  The passenger side will see more downforce under acceleration as the body twists, so my guess is the drivers side see more weight overall and is sagging more first.

[Thumperbird]

Hey, did you just call me fat?  I'm not that fat!  Yes, if anything, I expected passenger side to see the extra loading so not sure what is up.

Car has 6 bulbs for stop lights so maybe they added relay to handle the current and not stress out the switch on the pedal.  Pedal swith activates relay which sends juice to the lights.

[cammerfe]

You can do a lot of good with the pictures and specs in the computer/catalog at an auto-parts store.

Case-in-point. I had a relay go bad in a Jag sedan some years ago. It provided power for part of the shifting in the auto trans and the failure would put the trans into 'limp-home' mode with only 3 gears out of five working. The relay in question was an 'order only' part and would cost something beyond $50 ant take several weeks to arrive. I pulled it in the parking lot and took it into a local chain parts store. The counter guy accepted the 'hunt' for a similar part with specs and contacts properly arranged. We found a chizzler product, for lights as I remember, and I walked out the door and plugged it in. I think it cost about six bucks. (It did have a different colored plastic base.) Problem solved!

KS 

[FERoadster]

In the 70's and early 80's I did probably 40+upgrades for 1960 era leaf spring Fords/Merc's.  I think you should consider installing a 2nd leaf  on the drivers side below the main leaf (the one with the eyes in it) . It won't stiffen the ride that much but will not let your main leaf sag as much. Just FYI.

Richard >>> FERoadster

[wowens]

If total amps carrying ability is the same or greater, it "may" work

[Thumperbird]

I fixed the old relay for now, one of the contacts had disintegrated.  Bought the $20 horn relay., on the way.

THe leafs are about 5.5' long each, the car is a unibody, wondering if it does not behave the same as other cars in terms of hehere the load ends up during a launch.  Like I said no idea why it is sagging new springs last winter and I think it is down a 1/2 inch from when installed.

Trying to get to my Senior member status so Jay sends me a pair of his new heads for free as a bonus gift!