2000 F-250 5.4 engine sparkplug replacement local dealer handed me a $1600 bill

[bsprowl]

Turns out  it was a pre-approval authorization.  The new service writer didn't explain it correctly.

Two coil hold down bolt holes are stripped and the intake should be replaced since the brass inserts in the plastic intake can't be repaired.

I told them NO way and took the truck home.  I had to pay to replace the 3 plugs they did install and for an hour of troubleshooting @ $130/hr. 

I'll fix it myself when the shop is done.

Bob

[RustyCrankshaft]

Not an approved repair, but I've had a few of those inserts spin in the intakes (or EVERY Cummins crankcase filter base I've changed). I pull them out or grind a bit of plastic away and epoxy them back in. As long as you don't install the intake with a 1/2" impact it usually works.

[chris401]

Not an approved repair, but I've had a few of those inserts spin in the intakes (or EVERY Cummins crankcase filter base I've changed). I pull them out or grind a bit of plastic away and epoxy them back in. As long as you don't install the intake with a 1/2" impact it usually works.

This man speaks the truth. Put this advice in your tool box.

[Falcon67]

I haven't done the plugs in the 5.4, don't see the need at 149K.  But my go-to dealer is $140/hr plus parts and the repair kit - easy $750 plus with a couple of breakages.  The advice is "repair the cylinder that has a problem, they'll run 200K well enough".  So far, that's how it works.  Had one coil replaced, didn't hurt the plug.  I know the Master at that dealer and he can get them R&Rd, typically without breakage - but it takes time.  Time = $. 

[cammerfe]

A 2000 would be a 2 valve. They didn't have the spark plug seizing problem, they had a problem with the plugs coming loose and blowing out. Sometimes when they blew out they took the threads with them. A heli-coil usually fixes that. I don't know why they would take the intake off. Exhaust manifolds were a problem, are you sure they didn't do that and not an intake.

I'm gonna bet they claim there was a crack in one runner that leaned out that cylinder, causing the misfire code.

My truck does eat coils. Ford or aftermarket, doesn't matter. The scuttle is that they just heat up too much from being a true coil-on-plug. I was considering rigging a coil bank for each side and running wires to the plugs, like the LS [cough, wheez,] setup. Make sense?

[cammerfe]

A 2000 would be a 2 valve. They didn't have the spark plug seizing problem, they had a problem with the plugs coming loose and blowing out. Sometimes when they blew out they took the threads with them. A heli-coil usually fixes that. I don't know why they would take the intake off. Exhaust manifolds were a problem, are you sure they didn't do that and not an intake.

I'm gonna bet they claim there was a crack in one runner that leaned out that cylinder, causing the misfire code.

My truck does eat coils. Ford or aftermarket, doesn't matter. The scuttle is that they just heat up too much from being a true coil-on-plug. I was considering rigging a coil bank for each side and running wires to the plugs, like the LS [cough, wheez,] setup. Make sense?

My ECTA engine (Lincoln LS---Jaguar design, true COP) also went through factory coils to a surprising extent. The coils sit down in a well and there is a sheet-metal cover over the entire area, running down the middle of the cam cover. It seems to be generally accepted that the heat from being so enclosed is doing the damage. I replaced the coils with aftermarket coils from Accel. They're larger and I left off the enveloping cover as well. I also regularly changed plugs. That has been because I race running a witches brew of C16, Methanol, and nitrous oxide. Better safe than sorry on the plugs.

I'm done racing that combination, but had plans to change and go to the individual coils with a plug-wire pigtail such as is offered by Mercury Marine. The coils are twice the size of COPs and even more exposed to circulating air for cooling purposes.

KS

[Nightmist66]

I haven't done the plugs in the 5.4, don't see the need at 149K.  But my go-to dealer is $140/hr plus parts and the repair kit - easy $750 plus with a couple of breakages.  The advice is "repair the cylinder that has a problem, they'll run 200K well enough".  So far, that's how it works.  Had one coil replaced, didn't hurt the plug.  I know the Master at that dealer and he can get them R&Rd, typically without breakage - but it takes time.  Time = $.

Is this a 2V or 3V? If it's a 3V, they're not as bad to do as you think. I'll give you my secret on those. Use a 3/8" air impact and don't let off the trigger till the plug is all the way out or it has finished separating the body. I can usually get all 8 out without breakage. For the broken ones, I have the last iteration of the Lisle extractor. Last broken plug I did about 2 weeks ago took less than 5 mins. to remove. At any rate, I certainly would not heed the advise of letting them go to 200k. I have seen on the 3V plugs around 150k, that the ground straps get paper thin. Not to mention the extra stress on the coils...

[BattlestarGalactic]

Uh, cringe.   

I got the call one day years back, my sisters mustang had a problem.  Got it to my buddy's shop and determined it popped a plug.  Oh geez.  He had the tools, reamer, tap, insert.   It was a relatively easy fix, few hours and back on the road>  Whew.

Friend had '02 f250 v10 and it puked a plug one day going to the race track.  He limped it home that night and sent it back to the car dealer where he bought it used.  Seems they replaced the plugs before purchasing.  They fixed it no charge!  Whew.  He drove it for a few more years without issue before trading it in.

[TomP]

I have a 3 valve V10, just the engine. I looked up the price of plugs, they wanted $20 each... A couple hundred bucks in spark plugs for my beloved FEs would last me forever!

[chris401]

I think Chris from Merkel was joking. The mod plugs are 100,000 plugs. I have seen some start to misfire around 93,000 but not uncommon to see them last to 110,000 miles.