Oil leak, cam plug

[cbrown9064]

I spend a lot of time on Ford-trucks.com, but needed a spot of advice on my 352...

Doing a rebuild of my 67 F-250 4x4 and had the front clip off for other reasons.  There was an oil leak from the rear of the engine and I was in doubt about the clutch, so I pulled the engine.

Thought there might be a leak from the rear of the manifold, but it looks dry.  What was this hole in the manifold for that some just plugged with “goo”?   Intake is a Ford 4bbl from 65 or earlier, as it has the oil fill tube.

Cam plug appears to be in backward and the area is oily.  Should I pull the galley plugs and put thread sealant on?  Pull plug and put new one in?

Engine side of plate behind flywheel was a little oily, but nothing major.

Finally, thought you would get a kick out of the bellhousing.  Why would someone do work on this truck and never clean off 53 years of grime?  Weird..

Thanks in adjacent for advice!
Chris

[cbrown9064]

Could figure out how to put pics inline...sorry.  They are in previous message as attachments.

[blykins]

Your pics aren't showing up, but I'll say this.....

Yes, you can remove all the threaded plugs and put thread sealant on them. 

The cam plug needs to be the flat side out.  If it's not, then the cam can make a lathe out of itself.  If you pop that plug out and you see shavings, or the plug is chewed up, you may want to check your oil filter for bearing material.

If you can't get your photos to work, can you post a link that shows which intake manifold hole you're talking about?

[Tom Gahman]

Hi, cant see your pictures, but the "cup" of the cam plug faces in towards the cam.
I'm going to guess the hole in the back of your intake is for a road draft tube(pre pcv)
If you have a pcv valve in your valve cover, I would fashion a better plug for the road draft hole.
I have used that hole for mounting a pcv valve.
The crankcase has to breathe, so a breather cap on the oil fill tube at a minimum.
You also need air going into the crankcase for the pcv to vent out pressure(breathers on valve cover and oil fill).
Hope this helps.

[cbrown9064]

Hi Guys!

Thanks for the replies.  Here are links to the pictures.  Let's see if that works!

Got a new cam cover.  Going to pull the "improper" one out and see what it looks like.  Will let you know.  It does not look like it is too deep.

Chris


https://www.dropbox.com/s/76zxz2sieqt6qqg/2020-04-19%2018.36.17.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/4k7ig2b20euqxfi/2020-04-19%2018.36.14.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/5vghzfug3kz8v44/2020-04-19%2014.55.29-1.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/c3vyzd2avdrcfld/2020-04-18%2017.21.37.jpg?dl=0

[HarleyJack17]

Follow the advice mentioned.

On a side note to your bellhousing crud, welcome to old Ford trucks! When they are clean is when you should start worrying HAHAHA. Redoing my F250 right now and from the ram assist leaking, brakes leaking, engine leaking over the years, I got enough toxic mud and grime out of the frame to fill 2 five gallon buckets. NO DOUBT the truck went on a 200 lb diet after clean up. Amazing where that stuff can hide and how well it can stick to parts!  Engine looks fairly clean at least! Good luck.

[GJCAT427]

You need to change the cam plug around. When you do check to see if the plug starts tight. If not get another or very carefully take around bar and tap the rolled edge on a flat surface to slightly expand the edge. Then take a smear of good ole aviation cement and smear the edge then tap it in. I`ve done this on old and new plugs and never had a leak or a looseness problem.  JMHO

[cbrown9064]

Pulled the cam plug and ugghhh.  Everything I touch on this truck was done improper by what seems to be a "kid". 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/0cl942dqqdj7re9/2020-04-20%2014.10.48.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/t1h7d51hcxaub75/2020-04-20%2014.10.35.jpg?dl=0

Who knows how long it was like this.  I guess I will just put a new cover on correctly and run it.  Progress seems to be minor on this project, but it is moving along all the time.

If you are interested, here is a shot of the truck the other day pulling the engine.  Put a high pinion, disc brake Dana 44 in it, with power steering from a 79 F-250 with a Saginaw pump.  New booster master combo.  New front springs, perches and cross member.  Going to be sitting on 35s in a couple months!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kk37cfhut3by0i1/2020-04-18%2017.04.00.jpg?dl=0

Thanks for the quick and concise help!  Much appreciated!
Chris

[HarleyJack17]

I would be curious as to what booster/MC parts you went with.  I finished redoing all the lines on mine this past weekend but keeping mine in stock form....really would like to know why the brake parts/info on these old 3/4 Tons is like finding gold.  If I have to replace the booster one day, I plan on converting as much as I can to something newer.  Does not help that most of these trucks around here have been jerry rigged to high heaven.
 
Glad to see I am not the only one who's garage is taken up by a 70s model 4x4 with the front clip off HAHA.
Start a thread in the Members Project section.

[cbrown9064]

I got the Classic Performance Products Booster/Master/porp valve combo.  Made for manual brake trucks. 

Runs right around $330 off their site, but for some odd reason you can buy it off their eBay site for $260.

https://www.classicperform.com/ford.htm