Dropping the distributor.

[67428GT500]

When I dropped the distributor on the stand I did it with the damper set to 10 degrees advanced on the compression stroke.  I filled the float bowls up via the bowl vents and went to start the vehicle. I noticed it turned over very well and would almost start and pop a bit back through the carbs.
Did I set the advance too advanced? Should I have just set it in dead on number one and TDC?

To add insult to injury the Edelbrock fuel pump I purchased and less than 40 miles is now pissing all over the place via the diaphragm. 
Anyway, tell me how I screwed the pooch on the timing so I can correct it and run the cam in tomorrow.

                                                                                                      -Keith

[jayb]

I like to set the distributor with the timing light.  Just keep the carb closed (or better yet, remove it) and crank the engine, and watch the harmonic balancer with the timing light.  Even at cranking speeds you will see a flash when the spark goes to #1, and you can read the balancer during the flash.  It's easier if you have a timing tape on the balancer, but even with a painted stock balancer you can usually read it.  I've installed distributors multiple times as you described, and it amazes me how many times the timing has been off by 30+ degrees LOL!.  Using the light get the distributor set so that it reads about 10 degrees BTDC, and you will be ready to go.

[Nightmist66]

I set it at about 15-20 degrees on the balancer after the intake closes and line the rotor up with the terminal in the cap. If you are sure it's not 180 off, try giving it a little more advance. A little more will not hurt anything, especially with no load on the engine. I set the timing immediately after it fires and I have the idle set.

[67428GT500]

Thank you both.  Jay, I have a Shelby and it has the 427/428 PI style damper with the 0-30 degree marks. When I painted it I used white paint in the numbers and dabbed the excess off. The marks are clear and dot to dot on the timing chain is TDC on the damper at the pointer. I checked it on just in case the ring had slipped. 
I was more concerned with a huge backfire. I have dropped it in on TDC at least four times and it was right on the money.
I thought perhaps I screwed the pooch setting it at 10 degrees and #1. My concern is being able to read the numbers with the strobe on the timing light reflecting off all the chrome.
I primed the engine via the pump drive and a drill prior to dropping it. I wanted to avoid wiping the Isky cam lube from the lobes. It is what it is. At least the inner springs are out.

[blykins]

Here's what works for me:

When I have the engine on the stand, buttoning things up, running wires, etc., I will watch the #1 exhaust valve until it opens and shuts.  The intake valve will open at this time and when it's starting to close, I'm looking at the balancer.   I keep turning until I hit 30° BTDC and then put the dist cap on with the rotor pointing at the #1 plug wire. 

This is the way I've done it for years, and barring something goofy like something unplugged, no gas, etc., the engine will fire on the 1st revolution.   Usually it will just take a couple of degrees correction with a timing light once it's running.

My guess is that it's retarded.   Normally a retarded ignition timing will pop back, advanced will crank slow.   If everything is right, set it the way I described and I promise it will start first lick.

[Heo]

With points i do it like this! Remove the  -wire from coil
put the damper on what ever degrees you want it, say 10
meassure between the wire and ground with a ohm meter
or summer/buzzer or whatever. Turn the dist to where the points
close (buzzing or meter gets a reading) then you are spot on.
With a Duraspark i turn to where  the "spoke" is right in the middle
of that....is it reluctor it is called?

[My427stang]

I do it the same way Brent does on the stand, but in the car, I use a remote starter switch or screwdriver across the solenoid posts in a pinch and bump it until it starts building compression with my finger in the spark plug hole.   Then continue clockwise until about 10 on the balancer and drop it so it points to the #1 terminal when seated.  Runs a bit better if slightly advanced over slightly retarded, especially for cam break in

The other thing is make sure you went the right direction around the cap with the plug wires and don't have any crossed.

ON EDIT:  One last thing I don't see guys do is check it afterwards.  As soon as you think you are good and bump the engine around to get it to drop (or turn it with a wrench)  snug the hold down and continue around again until it builds compression, then set it at 10 again (or 12, or 15, or whatever) and look at the rotor. It should be pointing to where you wanted it to line up with #1 plug wire.  If it doesn't, lift the distributor to move it, or if it's real close turn the distributor, and if you have to  check again.  Although a lot of us get very good at stabbing them once, no reason not to check your work before you start cranking it over, plus checking the second time lets you set the timing pretty darn close right off the bat