Cat and mouse game on block cleaning

[fairlaniac]

So I keep cleaning my 427 block with soap and water, use compressed air to dry and every time it flash rusts. The cylinders get an orange haze as well as all machined surfaces and cast surfaces. I clean it up, run a wire through the oil galleys pulling a clean piece of rag which comes out orange. The corners of the cam grooves show the orange haze. I have played this over and over three times. As of this point in time I am clean with a coating of ATF. I had hoped to paint the block but I may wait until completely assembled and clean it well and mask. Seems anytime I wash anything with soapy water (Dawn) it flashes. Maybe it's my well water? I am envious of those pictures everyone else shows with shiny steel  not orange machined surfaces.

[GerryP]

You'll have to clean it and keep it in an oxygen-free environment.  Take your scuba gear.

[jmlay]

After cleaning spray on metal prep. That acid will eat the flash rust and provide some protection until it is painted. Won’t last forever especially in a humid environment.

[427HISS]

After cleaning with Mineral Spirits, coat it with WD-40. 

When we are done racing the sprint car for the season and tear it down, we store the block using those two products and cover it with a engine bag. Never failed for us.

You can also use fogging oil used for storing boat engines.

[My427stang]

I haven't had any issues, but I wash, then oil immediately.  I also use engine bags and if it will sit for a bit, toss a dessicant bag in with the bag.  You can buy closet Dri-sorb or something like that at any hardware store. I usually put a rag or folded newspaper in the valley, set the bag on the rag and bag up the block on the engine stand or on the floor if I am waiting.

As far as finding more and more orange immediately, it could be your water.  Unless you are coming back days later and letting it dry on its own, typically I don't see things behave like that.

[Joe-JDC]

What I have found to work if you don't have an air conditioned shop to wash and do a final cleaning, it to use a light oil film on all machined surfaces until ready for assembly.  The outside of the block can be painted with a primer that goes through any surface rust and etches the block, preparing it for paint.  I would wait until the engine is completely assembled, and paint it all at once if you are going to go factory color.  Use old spark plugs, and tape the exhaust ports, but paint everything but the bellhousing mating surface.  The block needs to have a clean ground area, and the bellhousing needs to be paint free.  If you aren't painting the valve covers, use an old set and bend the edges up so the paint will cover the lip of the head where the valve covers sit.  Nothing uglier than removing the valve covers and seeing rust under the edge of the valve cover, or aluminum if aluminum heads.  You get the idea.  The etching primer will take care of that surface rust and it will not peel.  Joe-JDC

[C6AE]

I use a volatile corrosion inhibitor (VCI oil or paper) and bag it.

Put a bit of the corrosion inhibitor in a bag (it evaporates, this is on the paper stuff that bearings are wrapped in. It has a distinctive smell, not bad)  and cover the block on the stand or not with a giant trash bag. Seal the bag tight with a zip tie, and it will come out looking like new a year later.

Google has a thousand examples.
You can it from Caterpillar in 5 gallon pails ($$$) for long term engine and tractor storage. They recommend it in fuel tanks hydraulic tanks, crankcases, and gearcases etc. you only need an oz or two. I love the stuff.

[RustyCrankshaft]

I use a volatile corrosion inhibitor (VCI oil or paper) and bag it.

Put a bit of the corrosion inhibitor in a bag (it evaporates, this is on the paper stuff that bearings are wrapped in. It has a distinctive smell, not bad)  and cover the block on the stand or not with a giant trash bag. Seal the bag tight with a zip tie, and it will come out looking like new a year later.

Google has a thousand examples.
You can it from Caterpillar in 5 gallon pails ($$$) for long term engine and tractor storage. They recommend it in fuel tanks hydraulic tanks, crankcases, and gearcases etc. you only need an oz or two. I love the stuff.

I like LPS1 for temporary flash rust prevention/removal but..if you really like the Cat VCI:

You can get the Cat VCI in smaller quantities than 5 gallons.
4C-6792 is the Cat number for a quart can.
4C-6794 for 5 gal pail.

[Heo]

So there is a benefit living where i do. Here metal wont rust as long as you have it
under a roof. I remember it was a guy from Ohio visiting my fathers shop.
And he was amased that we had the body i made for the Packard bare and
it had not rusted. And we live in eyesight from the sea,although the baltic sea is not
that salty. And every body of water is frosen 8 monts of the year

[Drew Pojedinec]

Is this a bad time for the guy living on a boat to complain?

[Heo]

Is this a bad time for the guy living on a boat to complain?

I bet you have some rust issues there