Author Topic: 67 Fairlane, 514, Immaculate, Must Sell! Fayetteville, NC  (Read 4644 times)

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bulletpruf

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67 Fairlane, 514, Immaculate, Must Sell! Fayetteville, NC
« on: January 02, 2013, 01:53:59 PM »
Fellas -

Well, our first baby is due in April and we're being transferred to Korea in June, so it's time to sell my pride and joy.

It's a 67 Fairlane hardtop, super clean and rust free. Wimbledon White with aqua green interior. It's originally a 289/C4/8" car, but now has a built 514/C4/9".

If you are familiar with this generation of Fairlanes (and Mustangs, too), you should be familiar with the typical rust spots, especially the cowl and cowl vents, which leads to floorpan rust. This car has none of that; it was apparently garage kept from day 1, and it took me several months of active searching to find one this clean. The only issue it has right now is a pencil eraser sized bubble on the front lower corner of each door. It's an easy fix. I've been over and under this car with a fine-toothed comb and there's no other rust or rust repair on the car.

Engine is based on a DOVE-A 4 bolt main block thats had roller cam bearings installed and its been bored .080 to 4.440. Crank is a Ford 460 2YABC casting offset ground to 4.140 stroke. Damper is an ATI, J&W flexplate, Lunati 6.535 Pro Billet Rods, Wiseco forged pistons (13.5:1 compression), Canton oil system (8 quart pan, windage tray, etc), Stefs vacuum pump.

The valvetrain starts with a Lunati Solid Roller #51699 (.761/.761, 284/294 at .050, 110 LSA, power from 5,000 - 8500), and includes Lunati roller lifters, Ferrea 2.25 intake & 1.94 exhaust valves, Lunati roller rockers, and a stud girdle by Jomar.

The heads are aluminum Blue Thunder B460 heads with Chevy exhaust ports. Theyve been fully ported but I dont have the flow sheets.

Up top, youll find an Edelbrock Victor Jr intake (ported by Larry Meaux) and a Holley 1250 Dominator fed by an Aeromotive A1000 pump, Jegs braided stainless line, from a stock 67 Fairlane tank with an added fuel sump.

The ignition consists of a MSD billet distributor, MSD coil, and a Mallory HyFire VI box. The Optima battery is mounted in the trunk.

The exhaust consists of headers with 2.25 x 34 primaries, 4 x 13 collectors and 4 Dynomax Magnum Race Bullet Mufflers with Flowmaster 4 scavenger turndowns.

The aluminum radiator is from Crites, the fans are Perma-Cool electric fans, and the water pump is a CSR electric unit.

The engine was professionally built for a guy who owned a speed shop, so no expense was spared. It still cost him $17k to put it together. It dynoed at 796 hp on the engine dyno and I do have the dyno sheets. He had the engine in a 70 Mustang bracket car. It had about 3 passes on it; ran 10.0 with minimal tuning. I've put a few more passes on it (less than 10 total) and maybe 50 street driven miles. Yes, it is actually streetable, as long as you feed it plenty of 116 octane fuel.

The tranny is a built C4 auto with trans brake and a 9 JW converter, shifted by a Turbo Action Cheetah SCS.

The cage is a 10 point mild steel, the leaf spring rear suspension has been replaced with ladder bars and Strange coil overs. The front shocks are CE 3-way adjustable units. The subframes have been connected. The rear is a new 9 from Moser with a spool, 4.11s and 35 spline axles.

The brakes are factory disk brakes up front and Wilwood disks out back.

The driveshaft is custom built mild steel with 1350 u-joints and the transmission yoke is billet steel from Dennys Driveshaft.

The rear tires are Hoosier 28 x 11.5 - 15 Quick Time Pro Tire and up front shes riding on Mickey Thompson Sportsman 28 x 7.50 - 15. The wheels are Weld Pro Stars front (15x4) and rear (15x10).

The interior is stock (including dash, door panels, etc), with the exception of the 10 point cage, added gauges, and 5 point G Force seatbelts. I removed the rear seat with the intention of putting a carpeted panel to block off the trunk, but that's not done yet. You can easily put another seat back there, but I don't have the one that I removed.

The body is stock except for a 4 teardrop hood from Crites Restoration. In addition, the rear has been mini-tubbed, and the shock towers have seen some surgery to clear the headers. The front bumper is fiberglass.

Clear title, in my name. Licensed, insured, and registered.

Last time it was weighed it came in at 3,366 without driver. I have taken more weight out of it since then (glass bumper, radio gone, etc). With racing seats, you should be well under 3,300 without driver.

I removed the stock buckets and took the car to a buddy's shop in Fayetteville, NC to have some seats installed. He was also going to touch up the paint in a few places (someone did some grinding near the car and it has some grinding flash in the paint that needs to be addressed). Since he's not going to get to it immediately, I decided to put it up for sale for 1 week just in case someone wanted it as is.

The only other issue that I planned to address in the near term is the starter isn't getting 100% engagement; still starts it up fine and should be able to get back to 100% by shimming it a bit.

Price is $16k, which is less than what it took to build the motor.  No trades.  If it's not sold in a week, I'll get seats installed, paint issues addressed, and adjust the price.

Call if interested at 919 478 1663.

Thanks,

Scott

Please check out my YouTube channel for vintage car and truck rescues, builds, and shenanigans!  https://www.youtube.com/c/THEBULLETPROOFGARAGE/videos