Drilling and tapping oil passges for NPT plugs

[olman]

Amen to this forum of gurus. I'm almost 74 and still learning- that's why I visit here all the time and ask sometimes stupid questions because I know someone will set me straight.

[67428GT500]

There is your plug kit. Ford used pipe, not fuel threads.  I used WD40 as a lubricant for the drill. My Milwaukee will break your wrist if you don't keep a hold of it.
Here is the plug kit.          -Keith

http://stores.precisionoilpumps.com/ford-fe-390-428-427-oil-galley-plug-kit-iron-390-cj-lr-heads/

[Ranch]

When your block comes back from a good washing out and you go to place your plugs. I would use a dab of Loctite 567 Thread Sealant or Teflon Tape. In either case don't let it get on the face of the plug that's in the block I usually stay a good one thread back with either, you don't want any contamination getting loose in your oiling system.  If you sharpen your drill like I mentioned you shouldn't worry about it grabbing. Lubing your drill and tap in unnecessary, a little air pressure to clear any chips is all you should need. Take your time and when your done you'll say to yourself "that was easy"

[fairlaniac]

Thank you all.

[rockhouse66]

I happen to be doing this work now.  When I run a steel rod through the main oil galley, it hits some obstruction near the middle.  I haven't done this job for quite a while and I do have a long drill bit so is it recommended that I run this bit in and get rid of the "step" or whatever that is in the middle of the galley?

[67428GT500]

When your block comes back from a good washing out and you go to place your plugs. I would use a dab of Loctite 567 Thread Sealant or Teflon Tape. In either case don't let it get on the face of the plug that's in the block I usually stay a good one thread back with either, you don't want any contamination getting loose in your oiling system.  If you sharpen your drill like I mentioned you shouldn't worry about it grabbing. Lubing your drill and tap in unnecessary, a little air pressure to clear any chips is all you should need. Take your time and when your done you'll say to yourself "that was easy"

I did electrical work in the oil industry during the summers with my father. Arco/Shell/Chevron.  I used to thread heavy pipe. I know you're a millwright so you know what I speak of.  I have always used a lubricant primarily because iron is brittle by nature and time and heat cycles just make it worse.  What I was told by builders in the past like Greg Forman and others was that never use pipe tape on the plugs as often it winds up in the oil gallery and ingested through the engine.  I have always used the liquid PTFE sealer.  As far as the chips I also use a magnetic extendable pick up tool to help collect the chips then I use hot soapy water , a rifle cleaning rod and a .50 caliber brass bore brush. I scrub the hell out of the gallery with the brush and soapy water and then use a high pressure hose nozzle and blow water through it. Then I do it a second time. 
Cleanliness is next to Godliness when it comes to cleaning a block. Any remnants will likely wind up in the bearings.
                                                                                                                     -Keith

[67428GT500]

I happen to be doing this work now.  When I run a steel rod through the main oil galley, it hits some obstruction near the middle.  I haven't done this job for quite a while and I do have a long drill bit so is it recommended that I run this bit in and get rid of the "step" or whatever that is in the middle of the galley?

I assume you're referring to the top center gallery?  There is a restriction cast in the gallery that diverts oil to the lifters. Some drill them out as it also supplied the #5 bearing at the rear of the block.

                                                                                                                              Keith

[cammerfe]

In regard to the 'step' in the MIDDLE of the gallery, it's there since the production machining of the block was done from both ends with the drill from each end going half way. It is very worthwhile to look through the gallery and if there is significant mismatch, take the time to use a cutter that'll straighten things out.

Here in the Detroit area, I was lucky to find a cutter source that was winding down and selling out. I found several reamers that were a close-enough diameter and the owner cut the ends to make them work for just this purpose. Since they had straight flutes there was no 'pulling' at all but they were very useful for correcting mismatch. Go for it!!!

KS

[Ranch]

Keith,  I'm know what you are saying about Teflon Tape and that is a good rule for the inexperienced.  So that is why I replied that you start at least one thread back and of course you have to wind it around in the correct direction.  I retired from a local refinery and most if not all pipes we threaded were Steel, black iron pipe is nothing more than a steel pipe with black paint on it.  When you were threading pipe in a rigid Pipe threader they have a cutting oil supply to the dies, did you notice how the chip from cutting was 'stringy', that's steel, if it flaked off in tiny little chips that is cast iron, and you don't see much of that any more. Pipe wrenches leave their teeth marks in steel where as a wrench can break cast iron, you've seen chain pipe cutters? works good on cast iron but not on steel. Soil pipes in older homes have cast iron (no pressure)
All machine work should be done before a thorough cleaning and that includes drilling and tapping. and you are correct about clean,  No such thing as too clean.....JMO

[rockhouse66]

Thank you Keith and KS.  I can get a rifle cleaning rod through it no problem so there can't be much of a mismatch.  My larger rod that almost fills the entry hole won't go though.  I will study it more closely then decide what to do.

[67428GT500]

I don't know how much help I was. However, working with iron and doing the plugs three times on FEs. You'll notice that if you elect to make the changes by drilling out the oil passage from the adapter to the pump that the iron turns almost to a powder.  Even with a tri-flute bit it still bites a little bit. Step drilling helps some. Just make sure you use hot soapy water and scrub the hell out of all the galleries when you're done. Like I said, I use a small magnetic pick up to clean up some of the large chips as I work. Bore brush, hot soapy water. WD40 or CRC equivalent. Machined surfaces. They flash rust, even the lifter bores.
                                                                              -Keith