Author Topic: CJ Valves in D2 Heads  (Read 2721 times)

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RangerRat

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CJ Valves in D2 Heads
« on: June 26, 2018, 05:06:41 PM »
Ok. I'm sure this has already been covered but I'm not finding quiet what I'm looking for searching the forums. I have a set of D2TE heads I want to install CJ valves in. The exhaust valve seats are shot. The machinest is very concerned about cutting into a water jacket installing the larger 1.750 x .200 exhaust valve seats. Can anyone confirm if the seats will work ok? I know installing the CJ valves is nothing new but I'm on a budget and have to get it right the first time.

Fordman

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Re: CJ Valves in D2 Heads
« Reply #1 on: June 26, 2018, 10:49:00 PM »
No the machinist will not hit water. These are the most undervalued heads out there(ported)......Just saying...No one else has but I will say it and take the flak. They are identical to C8AE heads but with factory hardened seats. They have a much more modern chamber  and MR  style intake port. They retain the lower exhaust ports but can be ported to flow with the best of them....Fordman

RangerRat

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Re: CJ Valves in D2 Heads
« Reply #2 on: June 27, 2018, 04:59:14 AM »
Sounds great. Where's a good source for stock replacement CJ valves?

My427stang

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Re: CJ Valves in D2 Heads
« Reply #3 on: June 27, 2018, 06:58:17 AM »
A few comments

1 - If the engine won't see a ton of miles, you may be able to save some dough and lose all worries of fitting a set if you just cut for bigger valves, as opposed to adding hardened seats.  Those heads don't really have hardened seats, they have seats that were induction (I think that's the right term) hardened, think of it as surface prep.  When he cuts for new seats, it'll go away

2 - Adding just the valves won't help flow, you'll need to work on the bowls to take advantage of a better valve.  The D2s don't flow well, (220-ish CFM) but can hit 280 or so and support over 500 hp with port work and CJ valves

3 - Be sure those heads match the headers you plan to run.  Manifolds are less of an issue

I have had good success on budget motors with Alex's parts valves.  They sell a nice CJ valve, likely offshore made, but a decent piece, also some decent street valve springs for the money

https://www.alexsparts.com/ss-valves-fe-ford-cj-w-2-090-1-650-high-performance-428/

However, in the bigger power motors / high spring pressure, I prefer a Ferrea, but you'll pay more

Last thing, just to sort of clear up the potential of these heads

- The port location is a med riser centerline more or less, but they are not MR ports.  They flow far less and are smaller in every dimension.  However, we were able to port my last set more or less to MR shape and dimensions using measurements from a silicone mold, more importantly, my current set outflows an unported med riser by a significant amount, so they can do well

- Yes they are almost identical to C8AE-H, but C8AE-H heads are equally poor for performance without additional work, but of course, with work, they do pretty well and are real cheap.  I wouldn't say they run with the best of them but they can do great.  They peak about 280 cfm with a good street port job, which is great, but the exhaust doesn't keep up with any early/CJ exhaust.  A low riser port with equal work will approach 300 cfm and much better exhaust, and a real med riser will walk away from it with work on both sides. 

- Craft Performance now has a CnC machining program for the heads that gets them about equal to an Edelbrock, not real expensive either if you are close by.  May want to consider it if it's a performance build

- The chambers are slightly better than earlier styles, but you'd likely get more gain from good quench than you'd see from just chamber shape.

All that being said, I run a set on a 445 and will eventually be on a 462, because they do work if you spend some money on them in a vehicle where you need the exhaust port.  In my case, a truck, in that case, you work the exhaust the best you can and then cam accordingly.
« Last Edit: June 27, 2018, 07:09:36 AM by My427stang »
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Ross
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fomocoloco

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Re: CJ Valves in D2 Heads
« Reply #4 on: June 27, 2018, 07:22:45 AM »
there is a guy on ebay who sells remanufactured FE heads. he specializes in them and has done lots. he operates out of his personal shop and is semi-retired. the prices he charges is more than reasonable and i can't get it done locally for what he prices these for. i won't put his phone number up on the forum but if you contact me I'll give you his contact information.

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Barry_R

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Re: CJ Valves in D2 Heads
« Reply #5 on: June 27, 2018, 07:45:40 AM »
If the engine won't see a ton of miles, you may be able to save some dough and lose all worries of fitting a set if you just cut for bigger valves, as opposed to adding hardened seats.  Those heads don't really have hardened seats, they have seats that were induction (I think that's the right term) hardened, think of it as surface prep.  When he cuts for new seats, it'll go away

We do this on economy oriented builds fairly often.  Going to a larger valve gets the diameters and angles up into fresh area on the head - fixing the sunken valve seat issue in a single step.  Under heavy use and many miles it will likely sink again without the hardened seat - but that would be 10s of thousands of miles and a few years of service.  For a budget hot rod that is something of a non-issue and gets you up and running for minimal dough.  Many of these cars are weekend toys these days and see pretty limited service.

RangerRat

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Re: CJ Valves in D2 Heads
« Reply #6 on: June 27, 2018, 08:18:45 AM »
Hmmm. I see what your saying Barry. I like the thought of saving any coin I can. Mine are sunk/beat down pretty low. I definitely only want to do it once though. I'm going to talk to another machine shop here local next week. The guy I showed them to yesterday felt they were too far gone. I dont rev past 5000 rpm much so I don't need a real aggressive head. I think going with the bigger valves and shim the springs will work fine for me

JamesonRacing

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Re: CJ Valves in D2 Heads
« Reply #7 on: June 27, 2018, 10:29:41 AM »
Hmmm. I see what your saying Barry. I like the thought of saving any coin I can. Mine are sunk/beat down pretty low. I definitely only want to do it once though. I'm going to talk to another machine shop here local next week. The guy I showed them to yesterday felt they were too far gone. I dont rev past 5000 rpm much so I don't need a real aggressive head. I think going with the bigger valves and shim the springs will work fine for me

I have a good set of used stainless 2.09/1.65 valves that would likely work well for you and save you a little money.  Also have an Edelbrock spring package to go with them.
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RangerRat

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Re: CJ Valves in D2 Heads
« Reply #8 on: June 27, 2018, 07:06:04 PM »
JamesonRacing I sent you a PM