Engine assembly lubricants - what to use?

[Falcon67]

Scientifically Treated Petroleum.

LOL - in the way back, that 50/50 with 50wt oil. 

My FYI on cylinder cleaning and WD-40 vs ATF.  This is prior to assembly, assuming a complete block hot water wash and blow dry already done.

Cylinder wipe with WD-40


Same cylinder wiped again using ATF


I do same on all deck surfaces.  For the heads at assembly time I wipe with oil/grease remover and/or brake clean, then blow dry and use pins to locate gasket and head. 

[GerryP]

...
My FYI on cylinder cleaning and WD-40 vs ATF.  This is prior to assembly, assuming a complete block hot water wash and blow dry already done....

ATF is an excellent cleaner in this situation and one I have used for decades.  ATF has a lot of detergents and solvent capability.  I have even used it to clean my hands.  One time, working with fiberglass and I got resin and glass on my hands.  Nothing I did would take it off.  I thought it was going to be one of those knife and sandpaper deals.  I poured ATF on my hands and it lifted everything right off.

[Falcon67]

I have some fiberglass work to do - thanks for that tip.

[GerryP]

No, man, just wear latex gloves.  That was a mistake made like 40 years ago before I knew anything about fiberglass.  I learned a lot that day both about fiberglass and ATF.

[cjshaker]

Years ago, we used to pour ATF down the carb on running engines to unstick valves on engines that had sat for long periods. That usually worked pretty good. Tried it once in highschool in the auto shop class and filled the entire building with smoke. The shop teacher and principal were not too enthusiastic about my idea then. Guess I wasn't thinking clearly when I tried it that time. Oh well, it wasn't the only time I saw the shop teacher coming at me with a mad look on his face.

[67428GT500]

We used to do that to my friend's aircraft engine. We'd all fly in from different locations. They'd go into the restaurant on airport property ( Flo's Airport Cafe') and we'd pour a half court into the intake.  When you lit it there was a huge cloud.  Fire was called and the grab-ass ceased.   Always done at KCNO (Chino airport)

                                                                                 -Keith

[plovett]

Because of my dumped lifter tray I went old school and used Isky cam lube. I was LIBERAL with it ( The only thing I am liberal about)

I now picture CaptKeith in a CheGuevara shirt, screaming that cam lube is a right and we shouldn't have to pay for it.

It's such a right Summit Racing lightened my wallet 25.00 for it!    I now have enough to break in at least another six flat tappet cams.
Between the cam manufacturer and the lube It seems to have saved the cam.  I was elated t find no metal particles post break-in.
Who needs Che? We have AOC! lol ( Unfortunately)
                                                                                          -Keith
                                                                 

You have a $15,000 paint job on a GT500, but worry about $25 to break in a cam? 

[Falcon67]

Years ago, we used to pour ATF down the carb on running engines to unstick valves on engines that had sat for long periods. That usually worked pretty good. Tried it once in highschool in the auto shop class and filled the entire building with smoke. The shop teacher and principal were not too enthusiastic about my idea then. Guess I wasn't thinking clearly when I tried it that time. Oh well, it wasn't the only time I saw the shop teacher coming at me with a mad look on his face.

Before going out on the streets hunting victims on Saturday night, I used to pour a small Dr Pepper bottle of water or ATF through the carb to clean out the plugs and such.  The last thing in the tune up. 

No, man, just wear latex gloves.  That was a mistake made like 40 years ago before I knew anything about fiberglass.  I learned a lot that day both about fiberglass and ATF.

Well, that also but the HF gloves have a bad habit of ripping at inopportune times.

[My427stang]

I have a sealed old-school kind of oil can that has a cover and stays nice and clean.  Whenever I have red cam lube, green assembly lube, STP, thick oil, I drain it into that oil can for mains, rods, and cam bearings.  When it's low, I add a little 20w50 or straight 30 weight, whatever I have around.  It's convenient for bearings in the can, and the key is, with the cover it stays super clean.  I would generally call it 20w50 Penngrade if I had to pick what was in the can LOL

For threads I use whatever the company told me in the way they tell me. However, exhaust bolts always get antiseize, and stock main and rods get ARP lube, other things like intake bolts, etc, just get something to not go in dry, often the "magic oil can", except aluminum heads which get antiseize

For pistons and rings, I don't do much, wipe the cylinder with oil, usually some clean 5w20 or 10w30 I have laying around.  I also wash the bores ridiculously and agree ATF works real well, but for some reason I usually just go soap and water, and some oil based spray with lint free paper towels.  I use the same for lifter bores and just slather it with my fingers.

For flat tappet cams, I like black paste type cam lube.  My favorite is Erson, but it's a bit tough to find sometime, not sure it's any different, but seems more sticky.  I also use Driven brand paste   I did a test last year, coated 3 lobes, 1 black paste, 1 red Comp and 1 green Sealed Power.  Goal was to wait a week and see which lasted the longest in a "completed motor" this was on the bench

2 hrs later, the red and green was completely gone.....the paste stayed put.  I didn't even make it a day, never mind a week.  The red Comp cams and green Sealed power sticky lube goes in the magic oil can now, to me it's just STP LOL