NESSASARY TO DIAL IN PROPER BELL HOUSING TO FLYWHEEL ALIGNMENT ?

[C6AE]

With a steel or aluminum bellhousing if the concentricity of the front bearing retainer hole is not too far off, say .010-.020. I just peen the face of the alignment holes on the appropriate side, then file a bit from the opposite side of the bored hole to move it the correct amount. This is quick and easy, you can readily get it within .002" and retain the factory alignment of the dowels (which can be stubborn to remove). Usually I can get this done in less time than it takes to call and order the offset dowels! (99% of the time it is the bellhousing that is incorrect)

(This is a common gunsmith's trick used to "time" actions and align critical fits. Sort of a "tune-up" method!)

[machoneman]

(99% of the time it is the bellhousing that is incorrect)


Yep, I agree. I think that the automated gun drills that machine the crank tunnel, pin bosses and bellhousing bolt holes are all done at the same time. Meaning, all the reference points in the block are near 100% spot-on....it's the Lakewood bells that are off. Rod C. a former Ford employee would know this I think.

Btw, have zero experience with QuickTime bells. May be very close.   

[427HISS]

C6AE,  I like your way, "Sort of a "tune-up" method!" ..lol !

From what I've heard the QuickTime's are high quality. Not that the Lakewood's are not.

[scott foxwell]

If the block is in the machine shop and you know you're going to use a manual trans, it's a good idea to see if the machinist can bolt the bell housing to the back of eh block and take a skim cut across the trans mounting surface. Of course, the back of the block needs to be set up  for square (not just sitting on the front of the block). At that same time the trans index, usually the bearing retainer shoulder, can be checked for concentricity and adjusted. I've seen more than one hard shifting transmissions for no appearant reason. Good trans, good parts, good clutch...usually an alignment issue especially with aftermarket bell housing. Interestingly enough, this can apply to automatics as well. Not the shifting part, but just a good idea to check alignment. It's an extra step and takes extra time (and cost if you have to pay someone to do it) but can be well worth it in the long run.

[cjshaker]

From what I've heard the QuickTime's are high quality. Not that the Lakewood's are not.

They may be high quality, but they present their own list of problems. Usually even more so than the Lakewoods.

[C6AE]

I would be reluctant to have the face of the bellhousing machined (unless it is out of tolerance). That is easy to check with the same set-up as the concentricity. I have had more stuff botched up in a "machine shop" than it is polite to talk about! I once asked a crank grinder to "square up" the flywheel flange on a stroker crank, and sure enough it came back worse than it was when I sent it. (I ended up doing it again in the lathe) Note that each and every time you machine these parts you start to lose the clearance tolerance stack up, often ending up in trouble. (In this case with the possibility of losing crankshaft end play)
Far better to measure, and if it is incorrect to correct the problem rather than to assume a "machinist" or the machine itself will automatically bring it to a tighter tolerance than factory.

(The Lakewood bells look for all the world like they were factory Blanchard ground which is a pretty accurate process, and I haven't found them to be out of spec. in that plane.)

[scott foxwell]

I would be reluctant to have the face of the bellhousing machined (unless it is out of tolerance).

LOL...I guess if it's "in tolerance" then there's no reason to machine it. Can't really think of any other reason to take a skim cut other than it being out of tolerance.