C-6Trannys

[Stangman]

Ok might be a little long sorry. Back in 1989 sent my tranny out to be rebuilt, wasn't right took out and he said he fixed it put back in wasn't right took out put drum in for extra clutch disc and I believe he said check ball in wrong spot but he had tranny this time for almost 2 weeks. A little fed up called up Jegs bought super street fighter c-6 and that's been in there ever since. Now about a month ago I went to the track as a lot of you guys know and on third pass by accident after burnout didn't put tranny beck in first so started out in second and tranny started doing funny things when cold . The rest of that day it was fine except one time at the end of pass it downshifted like right  after I got out of it. When I shift manually it shifts fine, sounds like maybe I burned up some discs and got some stuff in valve body. Talked to a reputable tranny shop in area and said he would rebuild it for between 9 and 1100. Would rather sell my c-6 that's been in my garage that I never put back in and this tranny that I think needs a rebuild or something else since it shifts fine manually. And buy another Tci tranny. Question is what do you think these trannys are worth maybe 1000 for both and I will throw in 3000 stall Tci super street fighter torque converter. What do ya think

[Drew Pojedinec]

To me, your core transmissions are worth $250 for the both of them, tops.  I might consider a little more if I could verify the 5 element drums.
Used convertor I'd value at scrap.  (sorry dude, but non working 27 year old c6's don't bring in much money)

Why don't you just build your own c6?  I assure you that you can do it much better than some assembly line worker at TCI.
http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=2316.0

[Stangman]

Thanks Drew video does look pretty straight forward I have owned my own shop for 24 years and trannys besidesr&r I just don't do problem being if something weird happens being I don't know enough then I would be stuck I am sure I could get help at that point but feel uncomfortable

[Drew Pojedinec]

If ya get stuck, I'd be willing to help with advice.
There are also 5-6 dudes on this forum that have a TON more experience that I'm sure would do the same.

The 460 ford forum is also a huge resource for roller c6 information, those guys are throwing 500hp MORE than you or I at a c6 and it is living.
Anyway, if I was forced to buy a c6, ready made, I'd be calling Jay at Broader Performance.  I have never seen a TCI or B&M rebuild that was really mind blowing, seems like they are just overhauls and not worthy of the price tag.

[Drew Pojedinec]

To reduce intimidation factor even less, Desertxl on the ford muscle forums wrote possibly the best how to on an early c6.

http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/galaxie-pages/610369-1966-c6-build-rollerization-part-1-tear-down.html

http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/galaxie-pages/610433-1966-c6-build-rollerization-part-2-modification.html

http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/galaxie-pages/610465-1966-c6-build-rollerization-part-3-assembly.html

[mbrunson427]

I read through the posts you recommended, Drew. I think I'm going to try my hand at my next C-4 or C-6. Doesn't look crazy difficult. I'm not ambitious enough to clearance everything on the lathe for roller bearings, but I'd buy the roller parts and put everything together.

[Falcon67]

Surprised a bit to not see bleed hole mods in the high drum (like a C4) or mods to the pump - one of the C4 updates is to remove the check balls from the pump pressure regulation passage. 

[Drew Pojedinec]

On my build there are mods to both the pump and the high/reverse drum.  The bleed holes are a pretty standard procedure.  On the pump it is the same, drill hole a lil larger and remove the checkball and spring.

[FE Jonny]

R code servo and 6 pinion low first, second planetary along with reverse roller sprag done! Some Red Clutches and steels would not hurt either.

[manofmerc]

About that r code servo .Be wary of the version sonnax sells .They tend to be tight in the bore you will have a slow soft 1-2 shift .They also have two o rings on the servo shaft sometimes they destroy them selves on installation . If you use this servo make SURE to air check it .On the 460 forums Drew mentioned there is lots of info about this problem .If someone has an original ford R servo I think they are problem free .TCI has one and superior also has a version of the R servo.Which ever servo you use please air check it before you complete your build .After issues with the mentioned sonnax part I use a stock ford servo on my c6s and my 2-3 shifts are just fine .Another thing those two springs that come with the sonnax servo are CRAP as well the factory spring works much better .To close I have had success with this servo but more often than not they are a pain in the rear .Where as a factory original servo has always worked and worked well .Merry Christmas Doug

[Drew Pojedinec]

Thus why i left out servo info..... it's worthy of it's own thread.
and yes, air check everything!!!!  In my case my headers make it to where I couldn't pull the servo with everything installed.  Man I'd get annoyed having to drop everything again.

[ScotiaFE]

Ya, we didn't even get into the lever yet.

upload jpg

[e philpott]

^^^^ almost typed "levers" earlier when I was at work ^^^^..... dang you got a picture of them all ...lol


 ..... best bet is to call Broader and get parts that work with each other .... I got two race build C4's for customers going on right now that are getting Broader parts in both

[FE Jonny]

Hmmm servo issues now I got to rethink that one, no Sonnex. I was going to get my goodies from Broader instead of figuring it all out myself. I know nutsing about autos, I was always a stick man or had Turbo Terry in Chicago build mine. He is gone but his transmissions live on.