New member and intro

[ChiefDanGeorge]

I'm Dan, I've got a '63 Mercury Colony Park with a 390FE in it. I've been reading here for a few months in the beginning preparation to build a new 390 for the wagon. I read the budget build article here and have tried to read a bit more elsewhere. Thought I would lay out what I'd like to do and see what you guys think, it's nothing too exotic.

The current engine is, as far as I know, all original no rebuild with 71k on it. It's a 2V carb, with power brakes and steering and a Merc'O Matic behind it. Transmission is fresh rebuild. From the factory this made around 250Hp according to the specs I can find online. At highway speeds, it will blow oil back through the oil fill. The oil fill is the style on the block, not through the valve covers. Around town it's fine, but could use more power.

I'd like to build a 350-400Hp 390 to swap in. I've look at the few builders that have 390s, but they all seem to target 500+ hp, as fun as that might be, it's also way out of my budget.

I've been looking on craigslist for 390s blocks, but haven't seen too many. Have to hit some parts yards as well.

I'm looking for advice on everything for the most part.

Pic here: https://flic.kr/p/pAMMRD

Dan

[Bolted to Floor]

Nice car. Welcome to the board.

[Drew Pojedinec]

Nice car, welcome to the forum.
Let us know where you live Dan.  Most of us have some nice 390 core engines stashed around.

[ScotiaFE]

Welcome Dan.
At 71K, I would do some testing to actually see what kind of shape you are in.
Compression test/leak down.
The valve seals are no doubt hard as rock.
The blow out from the oil fill is partly caused by your road draft tube.
A 400HP 390 would be pretty high strung for you nice looking land yacht.
You should be looking more for a solid truck/RV type build with good low to mid grunt
and topping out around 5000 to 5500 rpm.
A change to a modest 4V intake and 600ish carb.
A good ignition with about 12 initial and 36ish total all in around 3000 rpm.
Use the vacuum advance.
A small set of headers to help with the low end grunt.
The rear gear should be at least 3.25 or 3.50. That will do more for you than all carbs and cams you can buy.

[BruceS]

That Merc wagon looks like it could be the push car for a 60s Top Fuel dragster!  Great project. 

Bruce

[ChiefDanGeorge]

I'm in South Carolina.

Welcome Dan.
At 71K, I would do some testing to actually see what kind of shape you are in.
Compression test/leak down.
The valve seals are no doubt hard as rock.
The blow out from the oil fill is partly caused by your road draft tube.
A 400HP 390 would be pretty high strung for you nice looking land yacht.
You should be looking more for a solid truck/RV type build with good low to mid grunt
and topping out around 5000 to 5500 rpm.
A change to a modest 4V intake and 600ish carb.
A good ignition with about 12 initial and 36ish total all in around 3000 rpm.
Use the vacuum advance.
A small set of headers to help with the low end grunt.
The rear gear should be at least 3.25 or 3.50. That will do more for you than all carbs and cams you can buy.

[ChiefDanGeorge]

THe rear end is 3.00 now, at least I think that is what I decoded from the door tag.
Thanks for the other info!

The blow by is pretty bad, on a 2.5 hour trip averaging around 55 mph, I lost about 4 quarts. Around town, I don't lose any oil that I can tell.

Welcome Dan.
At 71K, I would do some testing to actually see what kind of shape you are in.
Compression test/leak down.
The valve seals are no doubt hard as rock.
The blow out from the oil fill is partly caused by your road draft tube.
A 400HP 390 would be pretty high strung for you nice looking land yacht.
You should be looking more for a solid truck/RV type build with good low to mid grunt
and topping out around 5000 to 5500 rpm.
A change to a modest 4V intake and 600ish carb.
A good ignition with about 12 initial and 36ish total all in around 3000 rpm.
Use the vacuum advance.
A small set of headers to help with the low end grunt.
The rear gear should be at least 3.25 or 3.50. That will do more for you than all carbs and cams you can buy.

[fekbmax]

Are you looking for another engine because you need to keep it on the road until you make the swap ?
Other wise I would think that the original engine would be perfect for a good solid rebuild. 
Once again I agree with Howie on the type of build for the engine. The 3.00 gear you have would be OK but a 3.50 would really wake it up and make a fun cruiser. .. good luck..

[ChiefDanGeorge]

Yep, I want to keep it on the road.

Are you looking for another engine because you need to keep it on the road until you make the swap ?
Other wise I would think that the original engine would be perfect for a good solid rebuild. 
Once again I agree with Howie on the type of build for the engine. The 3.00 gear you have would be OK but a 3.50 would really wake it up and make a fun cruiser. .. good luck..

[ChiefDanGeorge]

One more item I forgot to mention, and a pretty important one, when the engine is at operating temps, the oil pressure at idle is really low. Under load it comes up to about half way on the gauge(basically L ----- H pressure gauge).
I run 10W-30 in it now.