8 or 10 pt. roll cage for 68 mustang fb suggestions

[bill_396]

Ready to purchase a cage kit for my 68 mustang fastback that is at the rolling shell stage. It will be mostly street stick shifted with six or seven hundred horse. Already has Tin Man Fabrications connectors. Was thinking 10 point but was hoping not to have it get into the dash. Any suggestions as to who has a decent fitting prebent kit that installs without too much re-engineering?

[cammerfe]

In my somewhat limited experience---I've done a half-dozen of them over the years---roll bars/cages that start out as a kit are mostly some variation of one-size-fits-all. They intrude massively on interior space.

I had a cage put into my daily-driver/ECTA record-holder Lincoln LS when I got serious about racing it. There simply isn't any sort of 'kit' for that purpose available and I had it done from scratch.

It's tucked as tightly as possible against the perimeters. Back seat knee room is compromised. I have no use of the glove compartment and the halo bar gets in the way of the sun visors.

On the other hand the kids working the drive-through windows at some of the local burger joints seem to appreciate the looks of it.

KS

[ScotiaFE]

Why a 10 point?
Unless you plan on running deep into the sub 10's a six point with swing out bars is plenty for a street car.
And if you do all the other required mods with the six point you can run down to 10 sec.

[fairlanegt427]

the past few cages i have bought were from S&W racing out of pennsylvania.   my feeling is they fit super nice into the contour of the inside of the vehicle. 

[bill_396]

I had looked at S&W but it was implied that their 10 pt. intruded on the dash. Considering ScotiaFE's comment about why not a 6 pt., my main concern was to stiffen up the unibody. This car is a splice job thru the windshield posts and middle of the rocker area. It started out as a 390 GT 4sd parts car I bought about 10 years ago for the roof. It was really rusty up front but because it was a late June car it had reinforced towers and a nine housing just like my July R-code so I decided to rebuild it instead of the FB I had that needed the roof. Found a near rust free 68 Cougar front half and a lot of reproduction metal later I have a rust free roller that probably could use a little stiffening. Thinking about it now a 10 pt. won't really help me achieve my goal any better than a 8 pt. although I do like the fact I could tie the 8 pt. into the frame connectors over a 6. Later if I decided I wanted the additional windshield and roof bars they could always be added to an 8 pt., couldn't they? Thanks for your input. Bill

[ec164]

I would not do a 6 point with thinking later on upgrade to 8 point.... Just build the 8 point, know your safe and did it right, and will never have to take car apart to upgrade cage!........Al

[fairlanegt427]

other than the cage, crites makes some really nice subframe connectors for ford/mercury.  and their not very expensive.  i tied my cage into those and it is very rigid.  i just dont see the need for 8 point cage being effective unless your flipping the car end over end.  plus youd dont have to destroy the dash.

[bill_396]

I think I mean to say then that I want to install an 8 pt. roll bar not cage. That way I would be increasing the stiffness thru the middle, still tieing into the frame connectors but staying away from the dash.

[mike7570]

8 pt, traded Scrap Iron (John Richmond) for the work.

[ScotiaFE]

Nice work Mike.
That would probably work for Bill.

[ec164]

That looks real nice, good job!.....Al