Number 7 rod blew a hole in the side of the block

[Hubble63]

Rod blew a hole in block below combustion chamber, no visible cracks, any ideas if this can be fixed? the block is C6ME

[rockittsled]

do you have any pics? also, how rare is the block?

[jayb]

The cylinder probably can be sleeved if it didn't breach the outside wall of the block.  Hard to tell without seeing pictures, but a lot of pretty ugly damage can be repaired with a sleeve...

[Hubble63]

Rod blew a hole in block below combustion chamber, no visible cracks, any ideas if this can be fixed? the block is C6ME

Having trouble with pictures, will have them tomorrow

[KMcCullah]

It looks like you got off easy with that one. I would Magnaflux just to be sure. A small patch and a dab of braze looks like it should do the trick. Of course the neighboring cylinder will need some attention after the repair.

[Hubble63]

I don't understand why the cylinder would need attention if the hole is in the block?

[cjshaker]

I think everybody was expecting to see a damaged cylinder wall, which is typical with a rod failure. IF (and that's a big IF) that is the only damage, then a small patch and some braze work, like was mentioned previously, will do nicely....and you got darn lucky.

However, it's unusual to see a rod failure without more damage somewhere. Usually at the bottoms of the cylinders, or in the cylinders themselves, or around the crank support webbing or cam tunnel. Have you looked the block over carefully? The pictures are not good enough to see if there is related damage, and cracks can be really hard to spot sometimes. That's why a mag check was also suggested.

[cammerfe]

As suggested in several comments here, you need to start with a magnaflux inspection. You might uncover enough damage that it'll make no sense to use the block at all.

On the other hand, depending on your ultimate plan for the engine, it could make sense to simply clean up the hole to try to eliminate stress crack starting points, and patch it with one of the epoxies.

KS

[Hubble63]

The cylinder probably can be sleeved if it didn't breach the outside wall of the block.  Hard to tell without seeing pictures, but a lot of pretty ugly damage can be repaired with a sleeve...

[cjshaker]

If that's all the damage there is to the cylinder, then I don't think you will even need a sleeve to fix it. The iron is thick enough at the bottom that it should be able to be contoured and smoothed with a die grinder. It won't affect the piston at the very bottom like that. I would still have it magged though because it took a pretty good hit from that rod.

[Hubble63]

thanks guys for the insight on the block .   Can the nick be welded and turned down on the crank shaft.

[cjshaker]

I think you would be better off, and much cheaper in the long run, to just replace the crank. It took a pretty good hit and unless it was a big dollar or very rare crank I wouldn't spend much money on it. Welding it will lead to having to have it completely re-machined. It will get costly fast.

That rod is a piece of wall art though. I know it probably doesn't feel this way to you, but overall, you got pretty lucky with that failure. 9 times out of 10 it would have been much worse.

[Hubble63]

the crank is a 1u   428 crank how rare are them getting  to find?

[cjshaker]

You might be able to find a good one here on the forum. Otherwise, a new one will probably be as cost effective as having your old one fixed....IF it is repairable. There are a couple of good vendors here who could supply you with a new crank ready to go.

My concern is that that crank journal looks like it has been heated from a bearing failure and that is probably what led to the failure. There is a real possibility it has been hurt from the heat and the impact, but you could get a cost analysis for repair from your machinist and compare that to a new one. If they're close, then do you want a crank that has been heavily repaired...or a new one with no damage?