0.016 cylinder wall thickness - Will sleeving save it?

[428 GALAXIE]

Long shot  but you dont have any close ups on deck surfacrs. Really inconsistany for what im thinking.

[My427stang]

No, like a wrote a post above yours, he calibrated his device on an old sleeve.

This may sound harsh, but I think he screwed up.  Calibrate on the china wall, it's the same material and it's easily measured with a caliper.  Worst case, at the top of the cylinder where the deck is solid.

There is no way that measurement is correct, buy a tool for yourself or find a second guy with a different tool or some other way to validate.

[cjshaker]

The rust does look bad, but I would guess if it's as bad as it's made out to be, that those oil transfer tubes would be long gone as well. They always seem to fall apart LONG before the cylinders become that bad, especially on a 390. That is one of the most common issues on internally rusty blocks. They seem to be intact though, so I'd check if they held pressure. If so, I'd venture to say those numbers can't be right.

[Matthias390]

Thanks guys, appreciate the input.

Machinist is an engine builder (I only call him "machinist" here and there because I build my engine myself, I pay him only to bore/hone, square the block and plane the heads, cut the valve seats), specialized only in US American V8 engines and he does it for decades. He and I get along well and I kinda trust his expertise.
However, I sure wish you guys are right, which makes me wanna double check the measurement for sure.
Currently, the block along with rotating assembly and heads are still at his place, 3h drive away.

I will pay him a visit as soon as I can and measure the block together with him. I will then triple check on the calibration of his device, putting your tips to use.

[Matthias390]

Long shot  but you dont have any close ups on deck surfacrs. Really inconsistany for what im thinking.

Sorry, I don't understand what you're aiming at. Could you elaborate for me?
You wanna see pics of the deck surfaces?
Or are you referring to closed (by rust) water passages on the deck surfaces?

Attached pics show the block right after I took the heads off

[Matthias390]

BTW before I had anything done to the block I did a crack check that turned out ok.

[oldiron.fe]

     if you want to do a good build the press in plugs all need removal also cam bearings---- a good media blast cleaning is a -must- properly done the block will look better and be as clean or cleaner than from the foundry scrape/pressure wash is not good enough---others good with camera/computer skills should be able to show a good clean block -esp. inside water jacket  john-old iron

[jayb]

Sorry if this has been covered and I missed it, but if he used a sleeve to calibrate his sonic checker, that will not be accurate to check the bores.  A sleeve is a much different material than a cast iron block.  My sonic checker requires that you select the proper material for an accurate measurement; mine says to use the grey iron setting for cast iron blocks.  Check calibration on the rear block rail, as Ross suggests.  If the transducer is curved it won't matter, as long as the transducer is held at a 90 degree angle to the flat surface.

[Matthias390]

     if you want to do a good build the press in plugs all need removal also cam bearings---- a good media blast cleaning is a -must- properly done the block will look better and be as clean or cleaner than from the foundry scrape/pressure wash is not good enough---others good with camera/computer skills should be able to show a good clean block -esp. inside water jacket  john-old iron

Of course everything is removed. Those pictures where taken over a year ago, during disassembly.

Meanwhile, block is clean and no other part is attached to the naked block anymore.
Perfection is the goal. :-)

[Matthias390]

Sorry if this has been covered and I missed it, but if he used a sleeve to calibrate his sonic checker, that will not be accurate to check the bores.  A sleeve is a much different material than a cast iron block.  My sonic checker requires that you select the proper material for an accurate measurement; mine says to use the grey iron setting for cast iron blocks.  Check calibration on the rear block rail, as Ross suggests.  If the transducer is curved it won't matter, as long as the transducer is held at a 90 degree angle to the flat surface.

Thank you Jay. That is a good hint. I will tell him to do that.

[oldiron.fe]

       maybe  others with camera skills can show what a good media blast looks like on a block and inside water jackets -- a GOOD media blast will look as good or better than foundry new--- I would never build a good motor only scrape and pressure wash ---- you will never get water jackets clean like a media clean any other way --- only total rust removal will give you  best  sonic read----rust will not measure the same as the base metal--- a good media clean WILL clean ALL water jacket passages lke new!!!        john

[Rory428]

Not sure what you mean by "Media Blast", but if you are referring to something like "Wheelabrading" or shot blasting, my concern would be trying to get ALL of the steel beads out on the block afterwards. I have had cylinder heads cleaned that way, and they look like brand new, but those tiny steel beads can be pretty much impossible to get them all out. Same with sandblasting and glass bead blasting, my machinist buddy has had issues with intake manifolds and cylinder heads that had been glass beaded, and then ended up with errant fragments showing up and seizing up valve guides. I have never "media blasted" a block, and the current 428 had a lot of rust and scale in the water jackets, which took a lot of effort to remove, but patience, some long skinny screw drivers, wire rod (like gas welding rods), compressed air, and some long wire brushes, along with plenty of hot soapy water and time, got the block pretty clean and scale free. I probably spend 3 or 4 hours just of the rust removal, the scale in the bottom of of the water jackets was well over 1/2" deep of loose debris. When I was done, I could fill the jackets with fresh water, shake the block, and when I dumped the water, there was no more flakes coming out. I wonder if a place that dips car bodies in a huge tank to remove rust, like Redi Strip would remove such rust, but there is no such facility anywhere near my location.

[blykins]

We bake/tumble all of our cast iron blocks and heads.   Most shops that I know of do as well.  It makes them look brand new, inside and out.  A couple rides in the jet wash afterwards get them clean. 

I have had issues with getting glass beaded parts clean in the past, so I mainly do vapor blasting on aluminum parts now.