Was running and now it isn't. Any ideas.

[zukinut]

I had it running good before all this with the cap and rotor that I'm using now

Coil wiring hasn't been changed.

The only thing that could be causing the factory resistance wire to not be working would be the relay. At least that's how I'm reading the diagram.

When y'all say points burnt up, what exactly do you mean? I guess I'm asking how do I tell if they are burnt up.

Will

[ScotiaFE]

When y'all say points burnt up, what exactly do you mean? I guess I'm asking how do I tell if they are burnt up.

Will

When someone says "the points burnt up" they are meaning the actual contact point s on the breaker bar.
The dist cam spinning would open and close the points and a small spark would be generated. Over time this would
burn the points up. You could also burn them with the key on and the exact situation where the sun, moon and earth all lined up,,
but the engine not running.

I have not run points for a really long time, and why would you?

A couple of tests.
Check the engine/chassis ground. It must be perfect.
Put the timing light on each wire and check for light.

[Heo]

I Think its a bad coil trye a nother coil

[zukinut]

Would the coil cause it to not idle tho and die anytime the timing is retarded? The coil is a 4 month old flame thrower 2.

Nonetheless I'll try it and see what happens.

Will

[rhinosoft]

Jus rechecked the plug wires. It's correct. The coil is an epoxy flame thrower 2. It's about  6 months old.  The ground strap in the dist. If it was routed wrong would that cause an issue?

No other parts were changed.

Will

Had similar problem, was due to the non grounding of the distributor plate. Take a multimeter and probe from the start of the ground strap to the finish point. You should have a reading (ohm only) at all times.

Graeme

[zukinut]

Spent a few hours looking over stuff and testing stuff.  The truck failed the resistance wire test with flying colors. It passed all the other tests.

The truck starts fine. But dies immediately. Will 12 volts instantly kill points? I would venture to guess that it would at least run for a bit before they burnt up.

It's definitely at tdc. Is definitely getting fuel, and it's definitely getting enough spark to at least start. But why would it die immediately after it lights off and the key or remote starter is released.

Also when checking with a test light, If I put one end on the positive side of coil (with key on) shouldn't the test light light up if put the other end on the negative side of the battery?

Any ideas, I'm gettin close finally.

Thanks in advance
Will

[amdscooter]

It sure sounds like your not getting power to the coil after the start. have you tried running a wire straight from the battery to the coil just for troubleshooting?

[zukinut]

Went out today to test the relay again and the ignition switch wire again. Even pulle the vc off AGAIN to check tdc for the 190th or so time.

Hit the remote start button and it lit off and ran but wouldn't idle, it ran at mid throttle for a bit then died.  The coil was to hot to touch.  Replaced it with a new one I bought "just in case" as someone on fe power had suggested. Hooked it up started it and do far so good.

It appears that the resistor wire died and took the coil with it. I thought the pertronix coils could take a full 12volts but I guess not. I guess I got lucky and it died in the driveway. Although it woulda been much easier to diagnose had it not died at the same time the distributor was changed.

I'm actually good at the kiss principle. But I guess I lost that when this happened because nothing has been simple in this truck build.

I head out of town for work later this evening but when I get back next weekend I'm gonna see if it starts and runs. And then I'll take it for a test drive.

Thanks again for all the help.


Will