Odd title I know. Back on the old forum it was mentioned to position the crank in a way that the valves ended up more or less neutral while tightening the rocker shafts.
One position for 1-4 bank another for 5-8.
Stock dampers had marks or notches.
Does anybody know the positions starting from TDC?
Thank you in advance.

Peanut gallery comment.
Is it possible that the small nick above the end of the key in the first picture created a stress riser in the hardened surface that continues into the center?

Call Mission Auto Parts in San Antonio,Ask for Danny.
They are true blue Ford guys and do FE’s.

The oil pressure by pass talk reminded me of an oil system discussion I had with a BOSS 302  road racer I know. In the days before drysump systems were allowed in trans am racing Ford tried many ideas and pump/pick up ideas to make the engines live. Many early ideas of course came from the Gt40 program and NASCAR as well. One idea that my friends group tried with the BOSS engines was to separate the bypass from the pump,like was done with the side oiler moving the bypass to the back of the block.
One solution I found interesting was to plumb a regulator at the rear  main oil gallery above #5 main bearing with the bypass oil line entering the pan on the rear left. Did it work? For a wet sump they felt the pressure was a bit more constant and the bearings looked better but it wasn’t so much better that it changed their inspection routine. The oil temp was down a bit though so they kept the set up with a change. They moved the regulator to the external line coming after the oil cooler,again with the return entering the oil pan on the left side.

Sounds like the “blocking rings” (synchros ) are worn. Are they loose or nearly touching the engagement teeth of the gear?
They should not rock either.

Sadly the old Innovate message forum got nuked. (Innovate O2 indicators) .
10 years  ago a poster with the handle “tuner” had excellent insight on tuning Holley and Holley based carbs. He included some theory as well as practical application.
The cool thing was his insight help one “see” the function of each circuit and how the overlap,transition,one to the next effected driveability.

I also learned the whole carb too big on the street thing is sort of a myth ,but a small carb is easier to tune on the street because there is a lot less to explain. Idle is idle,main is main jet, power is ….well main jet.

Now a big carb it’s IFR,IAB,idle mixture screws,Main Jet MAB,PVCR,PV,secondary …..you get the idea.

At the time the 850 Demon came on a brand X crate motor,and everybody that cared tossed them because they sucked driving around town. I got mine for $50.
I ended up with every hole drilled and threaded for replaceable jets,IAB,MAB,PVCR,IFR .
I tuned that thing to 18mpg in my FE Mustang and 12.0s in the quarter.
It ran great.

I also learned that back in the olden days hot cars came from the factory.
The best OEM tuned Holleys are the last ones fitted from the factory. Look at the ‘vette 3310 or the CJ 735,later the 351c carb. You will find excellent low throttle angle tuning and driveability in those carbs.

Three modern tools will teach ,if you pay attention ,which area to tune. O2 indicator,vacuum gauge and tach.
WOT can still be done with a drag strip and reading plugs but drivability can be nailed with feel and tools.

For a street/ drag car OpenTrackers roller perch, roller lower control arm and strut rod bearing or ball conversion at the least will give the best bang for the buck as far as feel and performance.

The spring perch frees up the spring and shock , you will feel the difference.
The roller lower control arm bushing and strut rod work together . They free up the bind from the lower bushing and allow more caster to be dialed into the suspension .

Add the 1” upper control arm drop , good (not KYB) shocks, they are too harsh in compression and light in rebound, Bilstein Sport in front,streets in the back (for a driver)  and a 1” front sway bar and you will have a great driver set up.
If you want to lean more to drag racing use a stock (small lol) sway bar and an adjustable shock.

When you have it aligned tell them (demand) 0 Camber (+0/ -1/2) both sides the same! Caster ,manual steering +3 1/2 Power steering + 4 ( up to 5 1/2 if tire does not eat the front of the fender) again both sides the same. Toe easy, 1/8” in.