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FE Technical Forum / Re: Help with dual v-belt setup

« on: April 01, 2020, 08:55:19 PM »

Quote from: 338Raptor on March 27, 2020, 09:31:47 AM

You are correct about the part number including the belt length.

They make double v-belts. They are called “power bands”. They’ll only work if all your pulleys are designed to accept them. The pulley grooves must have correct spacing and depth. They’re more popular in industrial applications. I can’t recall ever seeing one on an automobile.

Yes, and you can separate them with a razor knife and have an exact matched pair

More here;
http://www.filtechinc.com/customer/filinc/images/pdfs/Belt%20-%20Identification%20Literature.pdf

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Finding 428 Blocks but have questions.

« on: March 26, 2020, 01:27:46 AM »

Quote from: FElony on March 25, 2020, 11:09:54 AM

Quote from: C6AE on March 22, 2020, 02:57:04 PM
I have a standard bore C scratch 2V 428, never been apart, still has the aluminum 2V 428 tag on the manifold.

(Industrial motor )

Pictures for the record?

It's down at work and when we get back to work I'll get them.
The stamped aluminum tag is unusual methinks.

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Finding 428 Blocks but have questions.

« on: March 22, 2020, 02:57:04 PM »

I have a standard bore C scratch 2V 428, never been apart, still has the aluminum 2V 428 tag on the manifold.

(Industrial motor

)

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FE Technical Forum / Re: I'm baffled! MSD distributor will not drop in?

« on: March 10, 2020, 12:23:00 AM »

If you have an old cam, hold the distributor w/gear up and engage it. They are 90° to each other and you may be able to mike the overall distance outside cam gear to outside dist gear? Try it with the both distributors. A problem may become apparent.

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Where can I hook up an electric choke on my 73 f250

« on: March 05, 2020, 12:19:21 AM »

If you connect it to the acc. side of the switch the choke will not be heating while the engine is cranking.
On my 428 (after sitting a few weeks) if connected to the ign side it may be already be open by the time it starts running.

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Oil Temperature?

« on: March 04, 2020, 05:38:35 PM »

Quote from: Drew Pojedinec on March 04, 2020, 11:54:27 AM

Chlorinated paraffins contact moisture and makes hydrochloric acid. That is more responsible for rusting inside an oil pan.

Is something we monitor on the large marine diesels as it is common to go 20,000 hours on lube oil before changing.

This is a good point, which is why lube oils by design have water emulsifiers added to keep moisture in suspension. As oil is moved through the engine, the heat generated by combustion in addition localized heat from working bearings is sufficient to evaporate any accumulated condensation. Typically this water is removed by PCV. Most engine lube oil systems are designed to run at the same temperature as the coolant.

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Oil Temperature?

« on: March 04, 2020, 01:03:20 AM »

I do agree with Joe there is horsepower in hot (thin) oil, but have a problem with having to "boil" the water.
You don't have to boil water to evaporate it, a pan sitting out in the sun will do that.

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FE Technical Forum / Re: Oil Temperature?

« on: March 02, 2020, 11:50:49 AM »

Quote from: Gaugster on March 01, 2020, 09:37:36 PM

Any oil temperature below the boiling point of water is a concern. However the temperature at the sensing unit can be 30 or 40F less than deeper in the block. A second measurement device even temporary can help with calibration .

Why so hot?

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FE Technical Forum / Re: long term block storage

« on: January 24, 2020, 05:47:09 PM »

This is good I have been using it for years. It is also available in bulk (gallons, etc)

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FE Technical Forum / Re: porosity fix for long tube manifolds

« on: January 16, 2020, 11:46:56 PM »

I realize it is late, but I always use a a nickel/iron alloy mig wire to repair cast iron.
Years ago I used sticks, but the wire is so much cleaner and precise.
Like any cast iron work you need preheat and a slow cooling period, but nothing ridiculous.
Fastenal has two pound spools. It is free machining, after the fact.
https://www.fastenal.com/products/details/0857244

I have also a set-up for thermal spray using a special torch with "cast iron welding powder" (mostly nickel) and it works better on exhaust manifolds than any other process I have used yet. It is pretty slick, without any real concern for contamination. If you haven't seen this process you should! (We also use it with Tungsten powder for hard facing)
Preheat and post heat w/slow cooling again are critical. You don't want the part to drop below 650°f while doing the work. Search for> "spray welding torch"
eBay has the best prices maybe.

41

FE Technical Forum / Re: Can I change my Harmonic Balancer?

« on: November 24, 2019, 10:56:40 AM »

Quote from: 427mach1 on November 24, 2019, 09:46:00 AM

Quote from: Barry_R on November 24, 2019, 08:12:55 AM
Cannot see for certain, but that does not look like a terrible fix - especially considering the era in which it was done. If I were needing to replace it I would bring that one and my chosen new piece to a machine shop and have it match balanced. Its not like its a frequent service item.

Thanks Barry. I would definitely have a new balancer match balanced if I ever get one. Another problem is the chunk that was removed contained the high end of the timing marks. I can set initial timing but checking at 3000 rpm isn't possible.

Use a piece of "timing mark tape" and time it on a different cylinder than #1

I do this sort of thing all the time. With a dial back light only TDC is needed for any given cylinder.

Tape; https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8985?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIz4LHx5qD5gIVXB6tBh0uUgDEEAQYBCABEgI0HfD_BwE
Use a pi

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