They are likely automated. You may want to start here until someone else with a better solution comments.

http://www.stopforumspam.com/

UPDATE 6/16/11: the site does load now. (Funny but not! Tried to reload stopforumspam and guess what? It's under attack.....Jeesh! Perhaps it will load later).

Anyway...here's another site that may be helpful and explains API's stop forum spam details.

They are likely automated. You may want to start here until someone else with a better solution comments.

http://www.stopforumspam.com/

Funny but not! Tried to reload stopforumspam and guess what? It's under attack.....Jeesh! Perhaps it will load later.

Anyway...here's another site that may be helpful and explains API's stop forum spam details.

http://sysadminspot.com/programming/generic-php-function-code-to-query-stop-forum-spam-api/

Something didn't ring true about your very low idle/drive vacuum. Once you get it back together and running, try these:  

1-You may have a leaking intake gasket causing a vacuum leak. Know you mentioned this and checked it but.....it could still be leaking externally (pulling in air from the atmosphere) or it could be leaking internally (pulling in air from the crankcase). To test for external leak, use an unlit propane torch and play the gas around the intake, any intake runner plugs or ports and the throttle shafts of the carb and see if the idle changes. Don't point the gas into the carb's venturis though. If so, you have found your leak.
2-To test for an internal leak, block off all vacuum sources such as brake booster, pcv, etc. and block all vents such as valve cover breathers, oil cap, brake booster vaccum line etc . Duct tape is your buddy here! The crankcase needs to be fully sealed from the outside atmosphere. Pull the dipstick and attach a vacuum gauge to the dipstick tube with a length of hose and clamp if need be. If you get a vacuum reading with the engine running, you have an internal vacuum leak and most likely it is a sucked in intake gasket. Could also be a cracked intake. Most likely an intake gasket though.
3-If power brake equipped, pull and plug the vacuum line to the booster and recheck vacuum.

Keep in mind the goal here is to eliminate variables. If vacuum is still low after all checks out, I'd also check the curve on your ditzy as that cam would like lots of initial advance.  

Yes, those are pretty neat and have multiple benefits. See Tony Mamo's (AFR's chief tech) notes for this same design of intake from Speedtalk:

 AFR TITAN SBC Intake manifold
by Tony Mamo @ AFR » Wed Dec 01, 2010 7:20 pm

Guys,

Truthfully we are a bit surprised at some of the responses regarding this as it has been a big hit with dyno operators, trade show customers and engine builders, as well as the various media outlets that have seen and tested them. But we understand ground breaking new products can always be met with some skepticism. Hopefully the following will clear up some of the concerns and questions.

1 – Part #4801, our single plane 4150 flange race manifold made 15 HP and 15 ft/lbs of torque over a leading competitors similar manifold. Part number #4803, our single plane street/strip intake picked up 7 HP and 20 ft/lbs of torque @ 3500 RPM.

2 – These intakes are half the weight of aluminum....A ten pound weight savings up high and off the nose of the car.

3 – The runners and plenum of our composite plastic manifold ran 30 degrees cooler during our many dyno testing sessions also reducing the temp of the carb body as well….cooler air/fuel equals HP.

4 – These intakes feature re-usable OEM quality rubber Viton seals which do a much better job sealing than paper gaskets (with none of the scraping and clean up mess upon disassembly). A rubber O-ring distributor gasket is also included….SB Chevy's notoriously weep oil in that area.

5 – Interchangeable runner configurations (spider) to a common valley plate. No need to mess with ignition timing (no distributor removal required) or breaking of the water seals. A 4500 carb flange version is coming soon which we feel will be very popular in drag race applications.

6 – Dual distributor hold downs and cast in nitrous bosses.



SchmidtMotorWorks wrote:

If you like vacuum leaks though, enjoy.


We have invested three years in the design and testing of these composite manifolds and have done some field testing for 18 months prior to the news of this new product being released to the public….. they do not leak.


SchmidtMotorWorks wrote:
TERRIBLE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Plastic is good for some things, performance manifolds is not one of them.

That looks something like what Wilson was working on some time ago, no surprise they still don't have one on the market.
Maybe it is a continuation of the same project and Wilson wisely gave up on it.

Even if plastic could be made to work in that application the design is terrible, four corner screws to hold that thing together without leaking??     

In the end though, one has to ask, why do this in plastic at all? Love of plastic? Cost of manufacture? Disregard of quality?


The runner configuration (spider) is attached with TEN bolts not four! (Six 6mm bolts and four 3/8-16 bolts in the center). We are compressing a void volume viton rubber seal, not a paper gasket. The owner of the company we hired to help us with this project ran the GM plastic intake division for many years and his partner ran the Ford plastic division for many years also. Together they have over 30 years of plastic intake manifold experience. Their facility has performed destructive testing on the AFR manifolds that simulate 100,000 miles of usage in a vehicle, the same testing procedure OEM’s use to qualify new parts. In fact they are a consultant today for many of the OEM’s and provide some of them with product.

In our opinion plastic is one of the ultimate choice of materials for an intake manifold (see the reasons noted earlier in this post), and it would have been far easier and much less expensive to simply cast a better flowing piece in aluminum....we decided to manufacture something far more innovative in spite of the design challenges and how costly it was to do so.

I would encourage anyone interested in picking up the latest Engine Masters....its a very informative article with lots of photos and detailed information.

Retail on the complete intakes (runner configuration of your choice and baseplate) is $599.....the spiders themselves will retail for $395

AFR P/N 4801 is available now (the 4150 race piece), with the lower plenum height street/strip version not far behind and the dual plane configuration available in the spring of 2011. Be sure to stop in at the AFR booth at the IMIS or the PRI tradeshow to see them in person.

Thanks,
Tony Mamo
AFR R&D / Product Development Mgr.
661-705-8508
Tony Mamo @ AFR
Pro

 
Posts: 267
Joined: Tue Nov 07, 2006 1:23 pm

Garrett still sells the old PSE designed adapter that allows any Cleveland intake to fit an FE.

http://www.garrettmachine.com/

Nice write-up and pics too Mario. But, what puzzles me is the grand you've got into this project versus the early-on statement that you're low on bucks. I can see saving a gennie 427 block with eight sleeves but wouldn't it be much cheaper to get another 428 block at/near std. bore? Still, would like to hear more as your season progresses and best of luck!

Thanks Jay!

Great blog btw.

I have only one question, one that's more rhetorical than anything.

Have you seriously considered an easily removable wheelie bar setup for track time at Drag Week? Would hate to see that Shelby up on the rear bumper on a good biting track.