Rick, thanks for the reply.  Here are some answers to the questions:

Bellhousing is from Quicktime and centered in at .0015" out of the box.  The TKO's are pissy with centering, so this was all inspected during mockup and again before final install.

I can't see the other side of the pressure plate unless I dissemble the pressure plate assembly.  It looks painted red from what I can see through the release fingers.

Camera is charging, I'll get some photos of the backside of the throwout.  The only markings I see are where the two clutch fingers are under the clutch finger holding tabs.  Doesn't look trashed.  The same contact points on the clutch fork fingers look fairly normal, just a bit of shiney-ness.  The scarring on the face of the throwout is discoloration, not gouging, I cannot catch a fingernail on it.

Clutch fork return spring was used and it was functioning correctly.  There was a visible 1/4-3/8" gap between the throwout face and release fingers when I set it all up.  The fork return spring does not use a stop to limit the return, I think the back of the throwout just rests against the input shaft hub of the trans.

Pilot bearing is a bronze oolite unit, BH50 I think.  Contact pattern of the input shaft is 5/16" into the bushing and nothing looks abnormal, no wobbling or weirdness.  I would have liked to have a deeper depth of the input shaft, but it was either this or the input was hitting the back side of the crank with the first bellhousing I mocked everything up with.  Car was never ran with that bellhousing, it was corrected first. 

The flywheel was cleaned with brake cleaner prior to install along with the pressure plate face.  I did nothing with the clutch disc but remove it from the box and install it.  The alignment tool to hold everything in place was new and fit so snug I ripped the ring off the end of it trying to pull it out and had to use a big pair of pliers to pull it out. 

ARP pressure plate bolts were used with blue loc tite, everything installed and torqued to spec in star pattern.

The trans worked great, shifted fine and everything seemed all and well.  The past few times I drove the car the only issues I had was the throwout sounded dry when I pushed the clutch in.  The other is there is a plastic tab on the clutch pedal that insulates it to the clutch assist spring under the dash.  That insulator snapped and the clutch engagement was a bit choppy since the assist spring was now riding metal-on-metal against the clutch pedal.  I may just remove the assist spring altogether since I barely had any tension on it and it wasn't doing much of any good.

I need some help from the clutch gurus...lots of questions as usual.  This is the clutch that was behind my worn out 390 in my car.  This clutch is from Mcleod, organic disc, diaphram clutch, matching throwout all connected to my TKO600.  Everything has a max of maybe 1500 miles total on it.  No burnouts, no tomfoolery, the tired 390 couldn't even chirp the tires with 4.11 posi in the back.  Just a few around town trips and then the yearly pilgrimage to Bonneville with the car.

I'm finishing up assembly on my 428 right now and giving everything a good looking over while I've got it out.  I've got some concerns on the clutch parts though.  First the flywheel had scratches in it like the tracks between songs on a vinyl record.  Very thin and barely catchable if you ran a fingernail across.  I could still see the machining marks from when the flywheel was resurfaced. 

So, were these scratches likely just caused from dust and debris?  Everything was super clean when I installed it.  There is nothing shiny on the flywheel side of the clutch disc that looks like it was dragging, and all the rivets in the disc face are still a good ways down in their respective holes.

Next, there are rivet heads in the clutch disc that are cracked.  Looks like a manufacturing defect to me because the cracks are only where whatever cutter is used to trim the head down left a chunk on there.

Lastly the throwout slung all it's grease out.  I'm reasonably positive it wasn't over greased on install or idling against the clutch fingers while the car was in gear.  Is there a reasonable explanation of what would cause it to puke all the grease out and get a ton of slop like in the video?

Has anyone seen this with Mcleod parts before or is this just a series of flukes all at once?

Rivets:




Pressure plate side of clutch disc


Flywheel side of clutch disc


Pressure plate face.


Grease from throwout




Throwout



Video of play in the throwout bearing

http://www.flickr.com/photos/44602356@N06/6444503733/

I'm looking at adding a shelf baffle to the front of my stock '62 oil pan.  Does anyone have the dimmensions of one from say a canton or milodon standard capacity pan?  The width is a given, but I'm not sure how long towards the front of the pan it should extend. Depth from the pan mounting surface would be nice to know too.

Thanks for the info guys!  So the wave washers will go in the spare parts bin.  I did a quick mock up of the parts and the end supports extend past the end of the hardened shafts I'm using, so those washers definitely won't be used.

My C4AE-G heads are at the machine shop at the moment.  Could I theoretically mock-up and get my alignments on one of my two spare "junk" heads in the garage?  One is a C8AE the other is a D2TE.  Is the valve spacing the same as the C4 heads?

What ignition were are you powering with the Duraspark distributor?

$389 or so looks to be a ballpark-ish price on it.  In terms of being able to quickly adjust the advance, it looks super convenient.  I think you can power any ignition box, even a Duraspark unit with it, so the price of the extra ignition box is there, but could be as cheap as the last Ford box I got around $15 new.

There are 3 vacuum advance curves and something like 9 mechanical advance curves you can adjust it to.  Kill the engine, flip the selectors and reset the base timing if needed.  Should be a 2 minute operation at most.