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Messages - RJP

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301
Bought a C7ZX intake yesterday and did some searches but only found a reference to a C7AE intake.
Were there other Medium Riser intakes? Jay's book only tested the C7ZX from what my search gave me just now.
If there were others what casting # or from my search some had none? 
Asked too much on the FEForum (value) and the thread got off track.
The only reason I asked about value is my wife would like to know what I've got in the shop (insurance wise) if I get hit by a car while running  :-\ or some other travail.

Thanks in advance
Richard
OK, I'll bite.... In MY opinion your manifold assuming it has no issues like cracks, stripped threads, shade tree modifications, milled to fit excessively decked block/heads,  holes where there should be no holes and so forth, I would guess in the $1100-$1300 range for the bare manifold. I made my guess-estimation based on what I have seen complete setups go for. These are original FoMoCo manifolds, correct [not repros] original BK-BJ carbs [no mods and correct metering blocks and throttle plates] with extra points for other orig. carbs like BC-BD carbs, complete linkage, air filter and fuel log. I have seen the complete setups go for the $2600-$3000 range. And as time goes on should increase in value.

302
FE Technical Forum / Re: Daily driver
« on: June 21, 2015, 04:28:30 PM »
Daily drivers, I have 2 that have D/D status. 1st: a 69 F-250 2WD, 390 C6, D-60 3.73 gears, stock lower end, cast flat top pistons, log ex. manifolds, D2 heads with SS valves, 2.09/1.65, hyd cam in the 270 deg range [I can't remember the exact specs as I built this engine in 1991] Stock iron "S" manifold, 600 cfm Holley and stock dist. with some tweaking of the advance curve. Runs good on Calif. 89 octane and gets 12.5-13 mpg. 2nd: 66 Fairlane GTA, 390, C6, 9" w/3.00 gears. Stock lower end, cast dish pistons, C6AE- 14 bolt heads, stock GT exhaust manifolds, SS valves 2.09/1.65, Hyd Crane cam 272/284, Edel. Streetmaster, 600 CFM, stock dist. and the usual advance tweaking, also runs good on Ca. 89 octane and gets 16-17 mpg hiway. A 3rd that is not exactly a DD anymore. 66 Galaxie, 428, C6, 9 3/8" 2.75 gear. Stock lower end, cast dish pistons. log manifolds, C1AE heads, 2.09/1.65, old 406 solid lifter cam 276/.479" Ford C7 P/I aluminum manifold, 600 Holley, stock dist. and the usual tweaking of the advance curve. Also runs ok on 89 octane with occasional 91oct. and gets 15.5-16 mpg hiway. All 3 have decent street mannners, dead nuts reliable and fuel mileage I can live with. It would be nice to get better fuel mileage, say 20 mpg but it just isn't happening with 50- 60 year old technology, big heavy cars/trucks and with an occasional heavy foot.   

303
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Age of Forum Members
« on: June 15, 2015, 12:17:17 PM »
25 years old here. I bought my galaxie when I was 22, I'll have it for life. Working on a 445 for it currently
Maybe there is hope for the youngsters yet :) Most young men your age are only into video games and what ever the electronic toy of the week is. Yesterday I went to a local carshow and greybeard gathering and the average age seem to be 60 years old. The few "kids" there looked bored or more interested in the free hotdogs & soda that was offered.

304
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Age of Forum Members
« on: June 11, 2015, 01:39:29 PM »
I'm 65...Still have the 60 Starliner I bought in 1967 for $75.00. Turned out to be a 360hp 352. That engine is long gone as it was wore out and not running when I bought the car.

305
FE Technical Forum / Re: oil pan mod's
« on: June 08, 2015, 05:43:46 PM »
Have you looked into marine pans? Most of them are full sump with some type of baffles and doors. Make sure the pan is orientated for the application, a v-drive pan is orientated for the engine facing backwards. [flywheel facing forward] so you would probability use the Jet boat pan as it is set up for flywheel towards the rear of the boat and baffled/doored acordingly.   Try Dooley, Milodon, Aviad[sp] or Moroso. There is another excellent pan available by an ex Aviad employee who's name escapes me right now but he makes a damn fine pan....CRS, ya know.

306
FE Technical Forum / Re: Fuel Supply for a 445.
« on: June 08, 2015, 01:19:23 PM »
If the original fuel line and pick up is 5/16" don't waste yer time...it won't be enough fuel. 3/8" is absolute minimum. My 72 Lincoln MK IV [stock 460 w/ 4300 Autolite-5/16" line] would run out of fuel at about 85-90 mph. Driving across the Mohave desert I was just getting in the way of most of the cars and trucks on the hiway. Even got in the way of a FWD PSD Ford Super duty pulling a 28' Eliminator boat...I watched him drive off into the sunset as he passed me like I was tied to a tree. Disheartening to say the least... :-[ 

307
FE Technical Forum / Re: Plastic pucks
« on: June 07, 2015, 04:51:26 PM »
Thanks Royce
uhhh...ok...but who's Royce? ???

308
FE Technical Forum / Re: Plastic pucks
« on: June 07, 2015, 12:35:25 PM »
Best bet and easiest source is from a used/junk distributor. I doubt they can be bought new but ya never can tell.

309
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Cammer Tuesday
« on: June 02, 2015, 02:58:12 PM »
The dude's chrome shirt screams "DISCO"....prob. listening to the Bee Gees on the 8 track.

311
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Not FE but a bit of Ford history.
« on: May 18, 2015, 06:11:34 PM »
$75.00???  Are you kidding me?!! That is VERY cheap! I'm truly shocked it was that cheap. I would have dropped that in a heartbeat. 15 years ago it cost me $400 to ride in a B24. 5 years ago it cost me $700 to ride in a B17. 2 years ago it cost $125 to ride in a Waco bi-plane over Lake Erie. There are fewer Tri-Motors running than ALL of those planes! That was the deal of a lifetime.
Yeah, it is a bargain, but for 75 bucks a head I'm sure all the seats were filled and there were no cocktails or mini-skirted stewardess on the flight. At Pacific Coast Dream Machine [Half Moon Bay, Ca.] this year B-24 rides were $400.00 but it too was a packed house on each flight. A couple of years ago at PCDM you could buy a ride on a P-51 Mustang for the paltry sum of $800.00 That 130 octane Av gas ain't cheap.

312
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Not FE but a bit of Ford history.
« on: May 18, 2015, 07:12:50 AM »
This was a first for me too...First time I ever saw a Tri-motor in flight. Nevada casino owner Bill Harrah's car [and many other things] collection in Reno had one on display. In fact it looked exactly like the one pictured above and I would bet money it is the same airplane. Not many people knew Henry was into aviation as well as cars, even experimented with all aluminum flathead engines to power small aircraft. BTW, this airshow featured rides in the Tri-motor for $75.00 per person...seem like a hellofadeal.

313
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Not FE but a bit of Ford history.
« on: May 17, 2015, 07:51:26 PM »
For the past couple of days a early/mid 30s Ford Tri-motor airplane has been flying over my neighborhood. Flying out of the Hayward Airport air show that has been going on this weekend. Hard to ignore the distinct sound of the 3 Pratt & Whitney radials that power this important piece of Ford history.

314
FE Technical Forum / Re: Block Date
« on: May 05, 2015, 02:18:31 PM »
I have to make a correction, it is a C5AE cast block. oops
It does not look like any tool marks, as in grinding to remove it.
Hard to say what happened there, but I would say you can get find a block without a date code. ;)
Possible is could be a service block...seen stranger things on service blocks than just no casting date.

315
FE Technical Forum / Re: 427 FE Big Block Starter
« on: May 05, 2015, 02:16:02 PM »
And I thought I was the only cheapskate that ran stock starters...Nice to know I'm in good company. I've run stock cheapie rebuilt FoMoCo starters in boats as well as my cars. V-drive boats generally need to be started in gear which places an additional load on the starter as well as the 514", 12.5 to 1 C/R tunnel-ram BBF its cranking. Never had a failure, knock on wood. Other things to look at regarding starter failure is make sure you have good quality cables, [read soldered ends] proper sizes cable, welding cable works good as it has more strands of wire for a given guage than parts house battery cables that usually have crimped ends. Quick & dirty test for bad cables is feel where the hot spot is, that is your resistance. Make sure your ground is grounding properly and connected to the engine and not the chassis. Again feel for the hot spot in the cable or terminal. A bad connection/reduced voltage can effect starter engagement just as bad as tooth misalignment, bad gear mesh. Another reason I like cheapie parts house rebuilds is you can usually find them anywhere which is a plus when you are on a road trip. Be a bummer when you need to overnite a new custom starter to you when you get stuck in some Podunk town that rolls the sidewalks up at 8 PM.   

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