Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - RJP

Pages: 1 ... 18 19 [20] 21 22 ... 27
286
FE Technical Forum / Re: Who's running 2x4 Holley BC/BD Carbs?
« on: October 31, 2015, 01:14:00 PM »
I have no reason to change metering blocks as the orig. Holleys work fine. IMHO there is no need to look for a problem that doesn't exist. But with that said I have found that late model Holley metering blocks can have problems in the emulsion part of the main circuit but early, say 60s thru mid 80s seem to work fine as they have a more precise fuel curve and respond accordingly. I have cured some idle/main transition problems by using a early metering block and matching the IFR and PVCR sizes to the orig. carb's metering block. Seemed the problems with the fuel curve was more associated with Street Avenger type late style carbs. If I needed a metering block I don't already have or anything that had anything to do with precise fuel control Quick Fuel would be my 1st choice.  As far as the BC/BD carbs being too rich that can be something as simple as a warped main body's met. block surface and the gasket is not compressing evenly allowing cross channeling or leaking into the power valve vacuum chamber. I have also found OEM carbs have more precision circuitry than over the counter replacement type carbs as these carbs are subject to emission control and testing, they have to be correct. For example a 780 cfm 3310-1 4150 is the correct OEM carb for a 375 hp/396 Chevy whereas a 3310-2 thru 10 is a over the counter replacement 750 cfm straight leg booster 4160 [no sec. metering block] The 3310-1 is a excellent carb to work with, the others? not so much. I cringe any time some one says they are dumping their OEM BC/BD or BJ/BK carbs for a cheap pair of 1850s from Summit or Jegs just because they can't get the orig. carbs right. If yer gonna toss the old ones...toss 'em my way, I'll be happy to take them off your hands at no charge to you ;)

287
FE Technical Forum / Re: Who's running 2x4 Holley BC/BD Carbs?
« on: October 30, 2015, 01:52:28 PM »
Hi All, I am planning to use my Holley BC/BD carbs on a new build. The carbs are in amazing shape considering their age. My intake is the original MR 2x4 aluminum intake. I'd appreciate collaborating on your experience (good and bad). Did you have to do anything special to get them to run well on the street? Obviously primary jetting, power valves, secondary springs, and idle mixture all have to be selected properly but is there more to consider?

Thank you, John
I run the BC/BD carbs on my 67 Fairlane, 427/C6 on a orig. C7 Med Riser manifold. I recently rebuilt the carbs, milled the metering block surfaces of the main bodies and trued up the throttle body surfaces as they usually warp with years of heat cycles. Use orig. Holley kits as 'white box' kits usually have incorrect needle/seat assembles and unidentified power valves. Start with the factory jetting and work from there. Off hand I don't remember exactly what jets I used but IIRC they were a step or 2 richer on the primary and the sec. metering plates I used were 3-4 sizes larger than stock. One other thing I did was I drilled out the secondary bowl plugs, tapped them for a fuel fitting making each carb dual inlet. I believe these carbs are too big to rely on the small transfer tube to supply enough fuel to fully feed the secondaries at WOT, esp. if the secondaries are jetted up. I made a 4 outlet fuel log to supply the 4 fuel bowls. For adequate fuel to the carbs I run a 1/2" line from the fuel tank including a 1/2" tank pick up and a 120 gal. Holley mechanical fuel pump with 1/2" I/D fittings.   

288
.008-.009" is not bad. I've done many 4 bbls that needed a .015-.018" just to clean up. 2 bbls are much worse due to less mass. I've had several 2 bbls that needed as much as .030-.032" just to get flat. I do almost all of my Holley machine work using a Bridgeport mill, carb fixture and a flycutter. I only take .0015-.002" per pass so it can be somewhat time consuming. Do not forget to check the base of the main body, they can get wonky too. If the base is bad enough the carb will leak fuel when the engine is shut off.

289
FE Technical Forum / Re: Lost oil pressure
« on: August 20, 2015, 12:15:04 PM »
I do know that red tastes better than blue....
I don't think I want to know how you know that. :P

290
FE Technical Forum / Re: Rocker geometry
« on: August 20, 2015, 12:13:30 PM »
I seldom see any one addressing the geometry issue of the adjuster side of the rocker. Check what happens when the adjuster is shallow or high in the rocker as opposed to deep into the rocker. The pivot point is changed between the high and low set point of the adjuster ball. Only fix is different length pushrods or rocker stands but I believe it could be a potential problem that could add to or cause a geometry problem. Any thoughts?

291
FE Technical Forum / Re: Lost oil pressure
« on: August 20, 2015, 12:00:40 PM »
Red Loc-tite here...
X2...If yer gonna use the stuff..use the strongest stuff available.

292
FE Technical Forum / Re: pressure v volume
« on: August 20, 2015, 11:57:21 AM »
Oil pressure is over rated... :o ;D I've had tired engines [example: Q code 428 Galaxie] that had no oil pressure hot/idle, zero, nada.  Gauge read as if the engine was not running. Only had 20-25 lbs hot/freeway speed, I'm guessing 2500-2600 rpm.  The engine ran good, smooth, no knocks, taps, clicks, ticks, nothing. But that annoying red oil light bothered me. Rolled a set of rod/main bearings in, new Melling pump and waaa laaa...25-30 lbs hot/idle, 60+ hot/freeway speed. Made me feel better but did nothing for the engine, ran exactly the same. But on the other hand a fresh engine with correct clearance should have 15-20 hot/idle, 60+ freeway speed and should have at least 65-70 at max. rpm. I have 2 street driven only 427 sideoilers, both have the block relief valve stacked solid and rely only on the relief valve in the Melling HV pump. Both those engines have 20lbs hot/idle 65 hot freeway speed. As for the question I favor more volume using less pressure. I see no need for 90-100 lbs pressure in any engine, even a FE. Counter to old school thinking that FEs need lots of pressure they do just fine with the 10lb per 1000 rpm rule as with most other engines. The biggest "old wives tale" is FEs don't oil properly, hogwash, even a center oiler, whos oiling system looks quite similar to that of a small block Chevy which BTW is touted and bragged on as a great oiling system. So why is the SBC so good and the FE so bad? Circuitry is the same, only difference between the 2 is the location of the pump and the pan sump. Use a stock front sump 5 quart pan and see whats going to happen when you nail the throttle from a dead stop. FE=0 oil pressure, SBC= normal pressure. FEs used in flat bottom V-drives live long and happy lives under much harsher conditions than in cars because in those types of boats the engines are mounted backwards. Flywheel facing forward, sump and pump in the rear. Oil never leaves the pick up. Draw your own conclusion.   

293
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: blasphemy exemplified
« on: August 14, 2015, 12:50:52 PM »
Quote: "the RK527 presented a number of unique challenges. Keeping the car as stock appearing as possible was number one."
"as to date no one we know of has installed one of these engines inside a stock 1967 SHELBY body"




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XNWN6AzmF2o
At least they didn't put a POS LS engine in it.

294
FE Technical Forum / Re: lost oil pressure due to filter change?
« on: August 08, 2015, 07:30:02 PM »
Actually the MD or HD FT block would be preferred for a stroker. FTs generally are cast a little heavier and core shift was minimized as these engines had to survive for hundreds of thousands of miles under much more severe conditions than a FE passenger engine. Even though most if not all FT engines were governed to 4400-4500 rpm some would be run at wide open throttle a large percentage of their service life and made to live on the cheapest gas available as they only got 4-5 mpg loaded. Most FT blocks were cast using better iron alloy, [more manganese & tin if my information is correct]  all should have the 3 rib crank webbing, a big plus with a stroked engine.  FT heads suck, more suited as a quality door stop or yacht mooring material. Small valves, choked down intake port [Ford's way of limiting rpm] and a big combustion chambers, IIRC about 78-81cc as FT engines only had about 7.2 to 1 compression ratio, large chambers and a very deep dish 4 ring piston. Heads will not interchange with a passenger car intake manifold as the heat riser is much different than pass. car heads. Exhaust valves had positive rotators and seats were hardened inserts. MD-HD Cranks were steel.

295
FE Technical Forum / Re: lost oil pressure due to filter change?
« on: August 08, 2015, 05:00:27 PM »
Check the back side of the main bearing. There should be some stamped info. If they are orig FoMoCo bearings they will have  "Ford"  or FoMoCo stamped in the shell. There also should be a date, some had 'em, some didn't.  Aftermarket [rebuilt engine] should have the brand or some other stamping indicating who made 'em. As I posted passenger car FE main bearings have a 360deg groove, your lower bearing does not. Tells me it is either a truck [FT engine] or someone found a rare set of bearings. On worn engines oil pressure is overrated  ??? When I got my 66 Galaxie/428 the engine had no oil pressure at hot/idle and only about 20-25 lbs at freeway speed. No knocks, rattles, ticking or other strange noises, engine ran great but it was that annoying red light on the dash when I came to a stop. No flickering, just a solid red light. Being the skeptic I am I didn't believe that red light and put a known accurate mechanical gauge on the engine...Damn, should have believed that little red light and saved me all the trouble of installing that gauge...It was right, gauge needle lay on the pin as if the engine was not running. Being the cheap bastard I am I dropped the pan, rolled a set of mains in as well as rod bearings and a new Melling oil pump. Problem solved, 30-35 lbs idle/hot and 60-65 lbs at freeway speed. Ran it like that until it was time to go thru the engine.

296
FE Technical Forum / Re: lost oil pressure due to filter change?
« on: August 08, 2015, 02:48:24 PM »
One other thing that jumps out at me is the lower bearing...It has no oil groove. I haven't seen those in years and mostly in FT truck engines.  When did you say the engine was rebuilt?

297
FE Technical Forum / Re: lost oil pressure due to filter change?
« on: August 08, 2015, 01:48:15 PM »
As said above  Fram filters are junk and they would be the 1st place I'd look for low oil pressure. I've had 2 Fram oil filters fail and both with the same results, low oil pressure. I now run Wix or Baldwin. Other Fram filters seem to be ok, like the fuel and air filters.  It is very possible that the Fram filter did not go into bypass as it should when cold and that could have been the cause of the wiped out bearings. 20-50 oil would have only made it worse.

298
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Holley Phreaks
« on: August 07, 2015, 05:46:47 PM »
I use Allstate Carbs. when I can't get genuine Holley kits.  www.allcarbs.com or 631 234 8327 good service and fair prices.

299
FE Technical Forum / Re: Its done
« on: July 31, 2015, 05:42:49 PM »
Brian, Your Sanger turned out beautiful and the FE is over the top too. Great job, you should be very proud. I've followed your build from the beginning and the documentation of the build helped many people, I'm sure. Now go have fun with it and enjoy, just be safe and wear your Lifeline. Best regards, Bob

300
Sounds like a rare flash of intelligence from NHRA.  Now if NASCAR would just wise up...

Agreed! Now this explains why Larry Morgan gave up on his Ford Pro Stock effort at the end of last year. Low and behold, Ford's nascent CobraJet Mustangs have a good chance of being quite competitive in the future. As for NASCAR......crickets!
NASCAR is happy....The Chevys are winning, Toyotas to a lesser degree and the Fords are fighting among themselves and not winning. That, to NASCAR is the perfect world.

Pages: 1 ... 18 19 [20] 21 22 ... 27