The only problem with using the rear bypass is you'll need the high pressure bypass spring in the oil pump. The oil pump bypass is set to bypass at about 125lbs to protect the oil filter. This is for cold starts only and the rear bypass is the actual running pressure control. I've blocked the rear bypass in 2 sideoilers and just rely on the M57HV as it was set at Melling. My hot/running pressure on both is app. 65 lbs at 2500 rpm and have no problems in the 20 or so years they have run.

If you are in the market for a crank shaft you might as well go big. A 410-428 crank would be the easiest but if yer greedy you could use the 4.25" stroker crank and make a 445" That'll give your truck plenty of scoot....A card table for a bed?

Way cool....congrats, Jay

If it was a Speed-pro equipped 396 stock build, or a rering, I'd say slap a cam in it and have a blast,

If that isn't a signature line I don't know what is.... For the street I'm a Speed-Pro, slap it together and have a blast type of guy too. Street stuff...It ain't rocket science, its just fun.

This is getting way more complicated for a 1st time engine builder than it needs to be. The OP is not building a race engine that needs to extract every ounce of power from it.  A street engine that will only see WOT about 1% of it's entire life leaves a much wider window for a "close" cam selection. I think I could find no less than 10-12 cams from all the prominent cam grinders that would work quite well for this application. Does it really make that much difference if one cam makes 5 or 6 HP more than another cam? Or if the peak torque is at 3400 rpm vs. 3600 rpm? Now don't get me wrong, I do firmly believe in custom ground cams for applications that truly needs it. The last custom cam I bought was for my twin turbo 460, it was done by Comp using their recommendations for turbocharged engines and using the perimeters I gave them. It has more intake duration [248 deg]  than exhaust [236 deg] ground on 114deg lobe centers. Not exactly the type of cam used in a N/A application. This cam allows the engine to idle smoothly at 750-800 rpm, start building boost at about 3K rpm and makes power and pulls hard to 7200rpm. On the other end of the spectrum I use an OLD, original 1962 406 solid lifter cam in my 4200lb 66 428 Galaxie LTD, it too runs well, idles smooth with the typical solid lifter clatter and pulls hard to about 54-5500, delivers about 15.5-16 mpg/hiway  In my previous post I recommended a cam that I have personal experience with. That cam, although may not be absolutely perfect for him, his car and his application I felt it would be close without over thinking and further muddling this 1st time builder's mind. I also went against my personal policy of not recommending a cam as cam selection is purely subjective. IOW what works good for one may not work good for another based on what is important to them. Some like a lumpy idle others like a smooth idle. Some want it to pull hard to 7K, others don't care if it makes power beyond 5K. Nice discussion here but can be a bit confusing and over thought. JMO     

Rjp has got it!
The pan for my v drive was fabricated by the legend Louis Unser.
It's one of my favorite parts on my motor & certainly has the most history.
If I can figure this picture thing out I'll post some up.
Hope all is well,
Brian

Brian, I followed your build on PB. You did a stunning job on that boat. Absolutely beautiful. Bob

     Well, I appreciate the info gentleman, but, it doesn't matter now. The seller said he would wait until tomorrow morning for me to look at it before entertaining any other offers but then reneged and sold it this afternoon, I'm a bit PO but what can I do, probably a Chevy guy, is all I can figure. I'm actually more interested in a crank and rods, I just thought that if it was special in some way I would want to know.
      I have 65 f250 with a 352. The oil pump driveshaft snapped so I pulled it and when I opened it up I discovered it was already .040 over. I was thinking I'd just as soon turn it into a 390. It was a daily driver and I loved driving it and I live in LA. Forty miles each way, most of it on the 405. No power brakes or steering, no AC, didn't matter this truck brought me joy. It came with a dump setup for the bed and after taking the bed off to remove all that hardware I took it for a spin with no bed and that was all she wrote!! Never put it back on! Threw a set of headers on and really had some fun only 208 hp but it moves well without that weight.
       I now have a 4v intake and I'd like to throw a mild cam in as well. Not towing, not hauling, just driving my big ugly truck/coupe. So now I'm on the hunt for a crank and rods and working with a tight budget. Anyway, now you have a little idea of where I'm at. Just gotta keep looking and learning.

You can always just bore your 352 [@.040"over] another .010" and make it a std. bore 360 [4.05"] reuse your rods and crank or find a set of 390 rods as they are a different length and the 390 crank. I would have no problem with using that block at .050" over or even more with a sonic check. Replacement/rebuilder cast pistons are available for just about any combo you want to build. Another thought is if the bores are good [no taper] in your .040" over block just do a simple re-ring/hone and new bearings. That is very doable on a tight budget and will give you several more years of happy motoring.

My only concern about your cloned metering block is the core used will have the same emulsion configuration as the orig. metering block. The other variables is just the IFR and the PVCR and is easily matched to the orig.