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Messages - RJP

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16
FE Technical Forum / Re: Remote filter
« on: March 07, 2021, 02:15:39 PM »
Quote from: 427John on March 06, 2021, 04:15:05 PM
For those having oil filter clearance issues,an additional option to remote mount,are the the 2 pickup truck adapters if your chassis allows, you can use the common horizontal mount with a shorter filter,or there is the harder to find 76 4x4 adapter that while similar to the pass car adapters angles it forward 45*.
I used that 45 deg, 76 p/u adapter on my 69 F-250 2wd and still had to use a small diameter filter as a full size filter will not clear the cross member. I have yet to try a std. dia. shorty filter as it might clear, I don't know yet as I will try it next oil change.

17
FE Technical Forum / Re: Fuel Economy 352 390
« on: March 02, 2021, 01:03:15 PM »
Quote from: frnkeore on March 02, 2021, 01:47:45 AM
Quote from: RJP on March 01, 2021, 06:19:25 PM
Quote from: frnkeore on March 01, 2021, 03:15:47 PM
Bishop to Hayward is mostly down hill, isn't it?
Ever drive it...?
I was born and raised in CA. I haven't taken 120 but, I have spent a lot of time in and around the Bishop area. I use to go to a cabin at South Lake and fishing at Lake Sabrina , plus hunting in Owens Valley area.

Bishop is 4000+, you do have to go over a almost 10,000 ft summit, going that way but, Hayward is close to sea level so, it's down hill.
Since you are so interested in the geology of my travels you might find it interesting that the trip to Bishop from Hayward yielded 15.5 mpg. Not too bad for a 4200 lb vehicle [not including 2 people, luggage, tools, cooler, etc.] going up hill.  ::)

18
FE Technical Forum / Re: Fuel Economy 352 390
« on: March 01, 2021, 06:19:25 PM »
Quote from: frnkeore on March 01, 2021, 03:15:47 PM
Bishop to Hayward is mostly down hill, isn't it?
Ever drive it...?

19
FE Technical Forum / Re: Fuel Economy 352 390
« on: March 01, 2021, 02:23:30 PM »
My example is not a 352 or 390 but a 428 +.030" in a 66 Galaxie LTD, C6 and a 2.75 gear. The best I've done is 17.35 mpg going from Bishop Ca. to Hayward, Ca via hiway 120 thru Yosemite. a fairly evenly split between highway and mountain driving. Driving conservatively [65-70 mph- highway] yield best mpg. Trip is app. 295 miles, topped off the tank in Bishop and the car took 17 gal. when the gas handle clicked off at the gas stop in Hayward. My 66 Fairlane 390/GTA, C6, 3.00 gear will average about the same [16.8-17.2] freeway driving. Around town...Not so good for both of them. :(

20
FE Technical Forum / Re: Oil Pump Dyno
« on: February 11, 2021, 12:36:58 PM »
I will never use Fram oil filters again. After 2 filter failures you kinda get the message that their Q/C is not up to par. They didn't bulge, due to high oil pressure as I am not a big fan of ultra high oil pressure as once was believed that FEs needed 100+lbs to live. I aim for 60-65lbs hot/running to be sufficient. The Fram failures I experienced were in the internal bypass that caused a 25-30 lb loss of pressure under all conditions, cold, hot, made no difference. The filters just didn't flow properly. 

21
FE Technical Forum / Re: Power- Solid Roller vs Hydro Roller ?
« on: February 04, 2021, 06:06:36 PM »
When Finnigan and Co. destroyed that 64 Galaxie I wanted to kick both of them in the junk for what they did. The fix could have been so easy but nooooo...They had to "See what happen if they did [fill in the blank] Then when they did that "engine swap" in the parking lot, that was just over the top stupid. IIRC it was a trade school class lesson on engine rebuilding 101. Did they preoil it, nope. They didn't even bar the engine over to see if it was able to spin. Nope. It didn't help either when one of them made a negative comment about "having to work on a Ford POS or something to that effect and how Mopars/GMs were more to their liking. Good...Go destroy those and leave the Fords to people who care.

22
FE Technical Forum / Re: Oil Pump Dyno
« on: February 04, 2021, 05:52:04 PM »
Oil pressure management has been around for years. Cummins, and I'm sure the others, Detroit and Cat used similar oil volume and pressure limitations. On Cummins [the only diesel I had 1st hand experience with] they went to a smaller gear pump that reduced the volume as well as a lighter relief spring that limited oil pressure to about 40 lbs. cold and hot. It was a tough transition for me to make as I was accustom to the typical 60-65 lbs o/p hot, running. Cummins put a lot of research into how little the typical 855 cu/in 'N'series engines required for adequate oiling. IIRC they claimed a 2-3% mpg fuel savings over the old design. This was back in the 70s-early 80s where they were just starting to scratch for each and every mpg they could find. In the beginning it was hard for me to watch the oil pressure gauge as it would drop to 32-33 lbs at 18-1900 rpm on a hard pull, loaded up a long grade on a hot day.

23
FE Technical Forum / Re: Side oiler by pass
« on: February 01, 2021, 06:23:52 PM »
Both my sideoilers have the block bypass blocked and using a std. high volume, std. pressure pump. Works fine and been running that way for 15-20 years. Hot running pressure is 65 lbs. using 10-40 oil.

24
FE Technical Forum / Re: 390 shakes at 1000 rpm – 1500 rpm – 2000 rpm, runs smoothly at 3000-3500 rpm.
« on: January 27, 2021, 04:54:55 PM »
Where to start?...A vibration could be anything and volumes can be written on the subject. That said did it always vibrate from the time you built the engine? What flywheel? Vibration dampener? Does it vibrate out of gear, in gear, both? From my experience with a similar vibration problem on my F250 2wd, 390 +.030" mild hyd cam, single 600 Holley on a Streetmaster manifold it also had a shake at about the same rpm as yours. After changing the Street master for a iron "S" manifold, no other changes, even the same 600 carb the shake/shimmy was gone. All I could think of with this swap was the S/M had a idle/low speed fuel distribution problem. The "S" manifold is a dual plane, small runner high velocity manifold. I did not need to save the 50 or so pounds using an aluminum manifold on a 4800 lb truck. An added benefit of the S manifold was that my fuel mileage increased about 1.5-2 mpg, better low end torque even increased midrange torque somewhat. IMO a win/win situation all the way around plus it freed up a aluminum manifold for something more worthy and beneficial.

25
FE Technical Forum / Re: To Run or Not to Run Dog Days of Winter
« on: January 18, 2021, 02:20:26 PM »
Paulie nailed it. Just running it in the shop/garage will not allow the engine to build enough heat to burn off the moisture created by just firing the engine and letting it idle or even at high idle. The engine needs to be under load for it to fully warm up. If you live in an area thats gets damn cold I believe it would be better to just wait until you can drive the car as other components besides the engine will benefit by driving it for an extended period.  A good freeway romp for 15-20 miles [or more] at 60-70 mph would be what I would try for.  I live in an area that seldom get colder than about 40 F so I leave the cars in the shop until I can put some miles on each of them. each drive is about 10-12 miles one way and the on-ramp I use for my return trip allows for a good 5k+ rpm romp going thru the gears getting up to speed... It is a long on-ramp ;)

26
FE Technical Forum / Re: FM 246P piston
« on: January 12, 2021, 02:48:39 PM »
Quote from: 427John on January 11, 2021, 04:40:08 PM
When my buddy rebuilt his 360 horse engine he used a set of ancient NOS Jahns cast pistons I found at a swap meet they were flat top with no valve reliefs and he was very happy with how they worked out.The original pistons that came out of it had been knurled back in the early 60's by a perfect circle knurling machine that leaves a PC logo in the knurling on the skirts,we thought they were pretty cool.The old Jahns pistons were probably heavy as sledgehammers but he was happy and it balanced out OK.Have you done any tricks to the D heads?If you go with the larger valves you may be able to lose a couple of CC's with those.
This brings back some long buried memories. When I bought my 60 Starliner in 1967 I ran the 360hp/352 for about 6-8 months before pulling it and dropping in the 390 short block I had built by a well known local machine shop. When I tore the 352 down it had Jahns cast domed pistons in it. The compression ratio must have been over 12 to 1 as the heads were the heart shaped small chamber "D" heads [59-61cc?] Any thoughts of building a extra engine for my Starliner was trashed as 5 of 8 pistons were cracked at the pin bosses, each one had 3 or 4 cracks in each piston eliminating any ideas of building a spare engine for it or maybe another car.

27
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: I must be going senile
« on: January 05, 2021, 08:20:31 PM »
I started buying Craftsman when I was 15 or 16 y/o. Its all I buy unless Craftsman didn't make it. The last Snap-On piece I bought was a 600ft/lb torque wrench. I don't care for the Snap-On ratchets, open end or box wrenches as the polished chrome surface makes hanging on to it more difficult when your hands get oily or greasy. Craftsman has a textured surface making for a bit better grip. Warranty: Can't beat it. The only Craftsman tool I ever broke was a 12pt. 7/8" deep socket after leaning on it with a 4' pipe attached to the 24" breaker bar. The socket split...Gee, I wonder why. Took it back to the store and Sears replaced it, no questions asked. I seldom buy individual tools as I wait until Craftsman has a sale, which is often and I will buy a "set" for little more than I spend buying individual tools. Another consideration for adding or replacement is Sears or who ever is carrying Craftsman tools now is usually open 6 or 7 days a week. I don't have to wait until the Snap-On truck to arrive, which is maybe once a week. When you need a tool you need it now...not next week.

28
FE Technical Forum / Re: Best actual Ford cast 4V intake found
« on: January 03, 2021, 03:35:03 PM »
Quote from: Joe-JDC on January 03, 2021, 10:49:49 AM
The distance between the pushrod tubes is over 1.500" allowing for wider ports as cast for one thing.  Has some unique features that make me wonder if they were meant for marine usage, also.  Joe-JDC
I doubt they were for marine use as aluminum does not get along well with raw sea water, salt or even fresh water. Marine intake manifolds were almost all iron. Only departure from iron was with crate engines that wound up in hot boats such as Sangers, Hondos, Rayson Crafts etc. In the 60s I remember crate engines stacked up in the Vic Hubbard's warehouse as they, V/H were big into the V-drive-hotboat scene. That would be about the only use of any aluminum manifold used in marine application that I am aware of. Boat builders such as Chris-Craft, Stephens, Tollycraft, etc usually used the marine/industrial FEs that were the complete marine package consisting of iron water cooled exhaust, marine cooling systems [both closed or open systems] cast oil pans, and front & rear mounting, usually cast in iron as well. Weight was not a big factor in say a 36' Chris, Connie using twin 427 engines, one being a counter rotating engine.   

29
FE Technical Forum / Re: Dilemma on 69 Fairlane engine?
« on: December 25, 2020, 02:58:37 PM »
Never play with different servos unless you know what your application lever is. A 'R' servo with anything but an 'A' or a 'B' lever may cause the case to crack. There are 6 lever ratios and 9 different servos that I'm aware of and each is for a particular application and should not be mixed unless you really know what you are doing. For example:  a common mod would be putting a shift kit in the valve body to boost line pressure, that can cause even quicker damage as now you have increased the total apply pressure to a servo not intended to handle that increase in pressure plus couple that with a high ratio lever such as 'H' lever [2.18 to 1] or an 'F' lever that is 2.30 to 1 even a small increase of line pressure using a 'H' servo [2.34/3.02] or an 'R' servo [2.48/3.50] may break the case. In fact a full throttle/high rpm shift from low to 2nd with the wrong combination of levers and servos trying to stop the high/rev drum instantly is almost guaranteed of case breakage. May not happen the 1st time but your C6 is living on borrowed time. 

30
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Engine block heater for storage
« on: December 23, 2020, 03:06:12 PM »
Save yer money...Just place a 60 watt incandescent light bulb under the cover and turn it on. Just make sure it doesn't come in contact with anything that can catch fire or melt.

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