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Messages - RJP

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1
FE Technical Forum / Re: C6 Problems--Advice Needed
« on: October 08, 2020, 11:41:54 AM »
I think you have found your problem...the converter. It should not sound like a box of rocks rolling down a hill. At this point it would be a waste of time and money to have the converter split and inspected. With what you have described it would not even be worth core charge. Regarding the case p/n of D3TP it sound like it is from a truck but the main thing you should look for is the detent mechanism for the shifter. Early shifters use a ball & spring in the valve body and later, say in the 73-74-75 range [I don't remember the exact year] they switched to a "rooster comb" and a loaded flat spring/roller so be careful about purchase of a rebuilt v/b if you choose to go that route. As for the internals of the v/b there are a couple of differences such as check valves and I believe spring tensions so if you do a shift kit you need to know what vintage v/b you have. If it were mine and the trans is out and on the bench I would do a complete rebuild if for nothing else to clean any debris that seems to migrate thru out the system after a component failure no matter where that failure is. Also it is a good time to inspect for any pending component wear, damage and such and to bring all component clearances back into spec. Don't assume the converter debris is confined to just the converter. You will need to flush out the cooler lines and heat exchanger before putting a rebuilt trans back into service as fluid from the converter goes to the cooler before returning to the output shaft support bushing and sprag clutch. Look for damage to the sprag rollers and races along with junk getting into the main support bushing. There are commercial flushing kits available to do this. 

2
FE Technical Forum / Re: C6 Problems--Advice Needed
« on: October 07, 2020, 06:00:48 PM »
Ok so the input shaft is good. Lets assume that everything connected to the input and behind the front pump is good also and you still want to rebuild the trans. Before you start shopping for a rebuild kit you need to determine IF the trans is original to the car. 66 Galaxies have a large and small green dot on the gear selector. Referred to as the Cruise-O-Matic similar to the old FX- MX iron case B/W 3 speed trans. I mention this because 1966 only has a few differences from the 67 and later "Select-Shift" C6s. Obviously the valve body is different and can be identified by both the V/B and the transfer plate have C6XX part numbers and generally cannot be upgraded to the select shift V/B needed for low-2nd-high gear shifting and the ability to hold what ever gear you put the selector in until you shift into the next gear, either up or down. Any V/B with a p/n C7XX and up to a D3 or D4XX V/b [ can be used for a shift kit maintaining the select shift feature. The next thing you need to confirm is the 1966 only forward clutch uses coarse spline friction clutches and common rebuild kits will not have these coarse spline discs. I know some builders have use the Hi/Rev frictions in the forward as the splines are the same. Personally I've never done it and I don't really recommend it as the friction materials are different, at least they used to be. In order to use a standard, over the counter rebuild kit with common frictions and steels the forward clutch will need to be changed. As I pointed out in a past post the forward clutch hub for 66 thru 72 or 73 have 31 splines, later have 30 splines so you'll need to be careful what forward hub you need or you might be buying a 31/30 input shaft to go with the later forward clutch.

3
55 or 56 Ford 2 door sedan...That would be cool.

4
FE Technical Forum / Re: C6 Problems--Advice Needed
« on: October 07, 2020, 10:54:48 AM »
Suggestion. If you haven't done it, turn the input shaft and see if it feels like it's turning the planetary in the trans. Next pull the input shaft out and stick it in the coverter and see if its turning and not stripped. Myself, I like to know what happened to it when something goes south on me.
X 2... As Lowrider suggested use the input shaft to see if converter and forward clutch hub turn smoothly. You may not be able to see if the planetary turns as the input shaft engages the forward drum hub only and motion may not be transferred to the assembly behind the forward clutch. Also turn the output shaft, it should turn rather easy in forward [drive] rotation but it will be much harder to turn in reverse. It is for that reason there is much more line pressure needed for reverse.

5
FE Technical Forum / Re: 360 horse 352
« on: October 06, 2020, 06:53:54 PM »
Yep, just checked my carb, same FoMoCo number as yours....I never heard it referred to as a "Boxcar" number. New to me. Date code on my carb is 183.

6
FE Technical Forum / Re: 360 horse 352
« on: October 06, 2020, 11:05:22 AM »
I have a 1850 with the 6 digit FoMoCo part number somewhere. When I get into the shop today or tomorrow I'll find it and post the actual numbers. The Colt book has this as a 1958-61LIncoln 430, 1958-59 Merc. 430 and 59-61 T-bird 430.

7
FE Technical Forum / Re: 360 horse 352
« on: October 05, 2020, 03:37:56 PM »
The Holley I have is a R-4548, which is listed as '61-67 352-428 carb in the Holley reference manual.  Joe-JDC
My old Colt Industries book shows that carb as a service replacement for 302-390-428 and 429 and judging by pri. jetting  [22R-40-57] and a #30 sec. plate with .064" main/.029" idle] it would seem to be about a 450 cfm carb at best.

8
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Brake drums for a 73 f250
« on: October 05, 2020, 12:16:31 PM »
Try doing a little research on the Rock Auto website. Their listings usually have a decent description of the parts and their applications. I have a similar problem with my F 250 2WD. Now has a Dana 60 from a 72, 73 or 74 F 250. The orig 69 rear end had "outboard" brakes.[Old trucking term] Outboard brakes meaning the drum can be removed without disassembling the floating axle assembly. "Inboard"= The axle and bearings have to be removed to access the drum.   

9
FE Technical Forum / Re: 360 horse 352
« on: October 05, 2020, 12:04:14 PM »
If memory serves me correct, the couple of intake I have looked at, the holes were smaller than the butterflies of the 600 cfm Holleys, and would be a big hinderance to flow and create turbulence. The throttle blades would not open properly?  I have a very old Holley here that I will look at tomorrow and see if I can identify the year/vehicle/throttle blades sizes.  Joe-JDC
With early iron intakes the throttle bores are indeed smaller than carb's throttle plates and most likely create transition turbulence. Early intakes [EDC?] also have what appears to be a pretty swoopy looking runner system with a plenum [and runners] similar to the later high performance aluminum manifolds. In the early 70s with one of these manifolds I scribed and bored the 4 throttle bores out to 2.125" each on a radial drill press and ran a 715 Holley. The setup worked great, no interference with throttle blades, no bore restrictions and the manifold/carb setup would pull hard to about 5400-5500 on a mildly built 390 with a 406 solid lifter cam. Only drawback to that manifold was the weight. Performance was on par with most FoMoCo aluminum manifolds I've used.     

10
FE Technical Forum / Re: 360 horse 352
« on: October 03, 2020, 12:21:58 PM »
Cam looks like elgin melling or wolverine all made by melling i think.
I agree...My 1st thought was Melling. I've run a couple of their cams. One of note is the cam that I have in my Fairlane, 427 M/R, it is a reproduction 324deg/.500" with milder timings.

11
FE Technical Forum / Re: C6 Problems--Advice Needed
« on: October 03, 2020, 12:16:17 PM »
It is very hard if not impossible to diagnose problems such as this on line with any accuracy. At the point you are at now your only option is to pull the trans and tear it down. Since you have the pan off remove the valve body [8 bolts] and look for any obvious damage, likely there will be nothing visible short of a broken sun shell or a hi/rev drum that has come apart also look for the drive lugs on the hi/rev that engage the sunshell, there could be damage there too. Beyond that it is time look further and to pull the front pump as little more is visible at this point. Remove the pump bolts and with the trans up-side-down take a long screwdriver or small pry bar and wedge in between the forward planetary gear set and the sun shell, pry forward and the ft. pump should pop out. It may require a bit of force if the trans has been together for a long time. Now you will be able to remove the hi/rev drum, band and forward drum. As I said in a previous post when the converter is removed the input shaft end is now visible, inspect splines and look for debris on the ends. Now just grab it and pull straight out. If there is damage to the input either stripped, broken or whatever. If nothing found it is time to tear down your sub assemblies, the forward and the hi/rev. With the problems you are experiencing I think it is rather moot to attempt an air pressure test but if you want to it should be done before the front pump is loose. A good shop manual will have instructions for a air pressure test. I usually reserve that test for when the trans is being assembled and the 3 clutch assemblies, band servo and governor are air tested to confirm they hold pressure and are functioning.    Post your findings and we can go from there.

12
FE Technical Forum / Re: Regulator Position After Carb - Why?
« on: October 02, 2020, 10:58:24 AM »
I use a B/G bypass regulator on a twin turbo, intercooled draw thru system using a single 850 Holley C/S so that the volume of fuel is not restricted by the pintle/orface as it would be if the regulator were between the pump and the carb. It is plumbed in reverse from a dead head regulated system. IOW Fuel comes from the carb's fuel log into the "out" port of the regulator and the discharge [fuel return] uses the "in" port and is plumbed back to the tank. Only advise I can offer with this type of setup is make sure the fuel lines are big enough to handle the volume and pose no restrictions at all.

13
FE Technical Forum / Re: C6 Problems--Advice Needed
« on: October 01, 2020, 12:08:44 PM »
Pressures should be checked using engine vacuum as your guideline. I'm not going to post the entire chart as it is quite comprehensive. At idle in drive, low, 2nd with 17" or more of vacuum @ 29.5 barometric pressure] there should be 51-66lbs of control pressure and 72-108lbs in reverse only. Next pressure check is done at 15" vacuum @29.5 BA/HG, press. should be 70-78lbs. and so on. All the way down to below 1.0" vacuum where press. should be 157-172 lbs [drive, 2nd and low gear] reverse should have 230-252lbs of pressure. This is specification for a STOCK built C6, not with a shift kit or any other valve body modifications. If you have the pressure you have found I'd be looking into the input shaft, broken, stripped splines or any other mayhem in the input shaft, forward clutch splines, etc. Not having reverse tells me the forward clutch could still be functioning, maybe not 100% right but when only the forward clutch fails the trans will still have reverse as rev is the only "in gear" position that does not engage the forward clutch, hence the name "forward". Most of the forward clutch failures I've dealt with are broken or hard seals that won't hold pressure. When that happens the forward clutches go south very quickly as they are slipping.  My comment regarding "At low idle there should be 60-65lbs press." was a guesstimate that should have merely proven the front pump was still working. IMO, You should pull the trans and with the converter removed grab hold of the input shaft and pull it out as there is nothing holding it in such as a snap ring, etc. Let us know what you find.

14
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: How is everyone on the west coast?
« on: September 29, 2020, 10:20:35 PM »
Smoke is all gone around Vancouver area now but two weeks ago it was terrible. The smoke from the fires in Oregon drifted 600 miles north and it was so thick you could see barely a quarter mile.

Arsonists should be doused in gas and pushed into their fires. If it turns out Soros is paying them to do that he should be coated in gunpowder and thrown in the fire too.


The gender reveal sound like the kid will be a moron!
Bill, your pictures of the jogger didn't show up! :)
That is too easy...I would prefer him to be drawn and quartered slowly and sent to the far corners of the earth. Regarding the "Gender Reveal" case I'm sure they would blame someone...any one else as they are victims...of what? I have no idea but it always is someone else's fault. >:(

15
FE Technical Forum / Re: Vacuum Line Routing-Effects
« on: September 29, 2020, 10:11:30 PM »
If you have the port on the carb's base plate that angles off at at about a 45 deg angle towards the passenger side use that port as it should be connected directly to the manifold vacuum. Don't tree off of that port for other vacuum operated items, leave that as a dedicated trans modulator port. Your modulator should respond exactly to manifold vacuum and not be interfered with by any other vacuum draw.

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