While my engine is at the machine shop I decided to look at new oil pans. I want a T pan for road clearance, I looked at Moroso and Canton T pans. I notice they have a stroke limit. Moroso has 3.98 and canton is 4.125. I don't understand how they are different when you use the same windage try. I was using a Cobra T pan and never even considered the stroke would effect the pan.  By the way I have a 4.25 eagle crank and the stock windage tray in a 69 mach 1.
                                           Harry

Hi guys something let go in my current 464. The motor is 8 yrs old many street miles lets say 10k, has 50 track passes plus the usual flogging it on the street. It has Eagle crank, Scat rods, CP pistons 10.5:1 .040 over, Erson rockers, Hooker 1 3/4 headers, 3 inch exhaust, Fidenza 13lb aluminum flywheel. Cam is similar to a comp 294 (custom grind by builder), street master port matched, Holly 850, Msd dist locked timing. Barrys Edelbrock heads pro ported  flows 330 @.600. This combo made 415 rwhp at 5800.
                            What would I need to do to get to 550-600 hp on pump gas? I am assuming it spun a bearing at this point crank is probably toast. Block is good so are the heads. Lets hear opinions.

Tonight I decided to sit in the car instead of laying under it. I haven't driven it much since the Beaver Springs carnage. I got new perches put on the rear, reinstalled the pumpkin, axles etc. Got a new driveshaft and ujoints, Mark WIlliams yoke. New clutch, pressure plate, pilot bearing, throwout bearing reinstalled my rebuilt Robbmc starter etc. Rollerized the Z bar and clutch pivot. I also put telflon bushed rod ends on the rest of the clutch rods. While I was at it I put new lenses on the dash and led bulbs to match my cobalt gauges.

 So I had a tough day so I wanted to go to the local car thing a few towns away. I got in the car started it pulled out of the driveway it ran fine. By the time I got to the main road it was hesitating every time I shifted, By the time I got it in fourth gear it back fired a few times. I put it in 5th and it felt like it was only running on 4 cylinders. I stopped at the next light to make a u turn and it idled fine but misses and sputters all the time while under light load. I got home and looked at the dist cap and it was a little dirty but the center carbon thingy was missing. So I put an old cap and rotor on and it had no effect what so ever. Im going let it cool off and try it later. I think the coil might be going south. Of course I don't have one to swap out. ANY SUGGESTIONS would be a great help. I goes right to 6500 and burns the tires but sounds like its still sputtering. Update I let it cool off for 3 hrs runs exactly the same.

I have a set of low riser heads off a good running engine.  They have been sitting on the shelf for 30 yrs, time to let them go. No bad threads cracks or issues. $700 plus the ride from 11766

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee183/sixty9cobra/0306142121a_zps2b5166c6.jpg

http://i230.photobucket.com/albums/ee183/sixty9cobra/0306142121_zpsb85321ee.jpg



Complete 28 spline 3rd member with 1350 yoke and 3.89 ring and pinion posi needs to be freshened no other issues quiet and vibration free.  I will throw in 28 spline mustang axels   $500.00 plus the ride


1969 mustang big block replacement radiator $100.00


I will bring any of the above to the FE Reunion.

 attended the FE Reunion in May. My day of fun was cut short by losing my power steering belt in the burnout box on the third pass. I went back to the pits and tried renditioning it etc. Everytime I revved the engine the belt would fly off. Some forum members even tried to help and offer moral support. It wouldn't have been big deal but I also have hydroboost brakes. I decided someone was telling me something and parked it in the show area. When I got home I took a close look and decided the pump had to much end play and the pulley was wobbly. I tried locating a rebuilt pump locally which turned out to be a 2 month project no one could deliver one. Finally I located one on EBay. In the mean time I ordered a billet pulley and a billet housing from CVF Racing. It looked like a nice product. I assembled the parts and installed on my Mach 1. Immediately the pump whined and the hydro boost squealed when I depressed the brake pedal. My immediate reaction the pump was bad! I have had this problem before. I called the seller and he suggested sending it back and he would send it to his supplier for evaluation. He also suggested if I didn't want to wait I should order another one and he would credit me for the first one after it was evaluated. Sounded reasonable instead of waiting a possible few weeks more. The replacement $70.00 pump arrived I swapped the pulley and case to the new one installed it and filled with fluid. I started it and it was quieter but still noisy. WTF???I took it for a ride and as it got hotter it got louder, then the brakes started dragging and the steering got erratic. I parked it and had a few beers called it a day. Sunday I went out and put the sloppy end play pump back in. Guess what problem solved 2 bad pumps right? Being the anal person that I am, I took the bad end play pump back out and removed the stock sheet metal cover and installed the billet cover. Perfectly quiet unbelievable 2 bad pumps just my luck. I then put the fill cap on. I took a ride and made it to the end of the block and it started squealing, brakes dragging etc. WTF? I pulled over opened the hood and removed the fill cap, the fluid boiled all over the engine compartment with nice foamy red crap everywhere. I left the cap off and drove home and it was perfectly silent. I removed the fill tube from the canister and put the fill cap on it, guess what its not freaken vented!!!! I emailed them and they assured me they sold many of them with no problem. NOWAY!!!! the design is bad!!!!

Slideshow 380 pics
http://s230.photobucket.com/user/sixty9cobra/slideshow/Beaver%20Springs

non slide show
http://s230.photobucket.com/user/sixty9cobra/library/Beaver%20Springs



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