What's really interesting is how much the valve stem itself moves around.  Certainly the head end of the valve is doing the same thing; argues for a lot of radial clearance from the valve to the piston eyebrows...

I usually put mine in the intake, as close to the thermostat as there is a pipe fitting.  You can use a Tee fitting, sitting flat, to accomodate your original temp sender plus the sensor for the electric fan.  But Gerry's way is better, if you have a thermostat housing with a pipe fitting in it. Only downside there is if the thermostat sticks shut, you won't see an accurate temp at the sensor.  Of course, with no flow through the radiator, what good would the fans do LOL!

Leny, on my computer you can right click on the picture and select Open Link in New Tab.  This will show you the whole picture.

Gonna be a very impressive car, that's for sure...

+3 on Spal fans.  At low speeds the flex fan turns slowly, and will not pull the same amount of air as a couple of good Spal fans.  Beware, many of the other electric fans out there don't pull a lot of air, despite their promising cfm ratings...

You might have to have the pins fit to the new pistons, your shop should at least check that.  No reason you can't reuse them though.  All your piston/pin combinations should weigh very close to the same, so if you are +/- 10 grams with the old ones you don't need to rebalance.  Probably a good idea to mag the rod where you dropped the valve also...

It would be nice if it was that easy.  But the head bolts are in different positions, and there are tabs on the Calliope block where the inside and outside head bolts go.  Plus there are no water jacket holes in the Calliope block.  I might be able to take a standard block and mock it up with the heads, but I don't think you could run it...

I use the individual spade connectors available from the electrical department of Menards or Home Depot.  The ones you want have the yellow plastic on them, and you can just crimp them on some 12 gauge stranded wire.  Tie wrap the two wires together, and you have an inexpensive solution that works just fine - Jay

I worked with a guy at Whipple several times, trying to get one of their superchargers to work with one of my intake adapters; I thought that would be a pretty cool option.  One issue is to really do it right, you need an intercooler installed below the supercharger.  That led to some pretty cramped spacing that we didn't think would work.  Along with that you have the issue of the belt getting in the way of the stock FE distributor (which would be solved with a crank trigger, coil pack ignition, feeding the charge in from the rear (ducting gets in the way of the shock towers and export brace on a Mustang/Fairlane), injector position and plumbing, etc.  If you went to a dedicated manifold for the Whipple, you could raise up the supercharger enough to make the intercooler work, which is the major hurdle, but that would be a low volume and expensive casting that would stick through the hood, if you could even find a foundry that would do it.  Raising it to stick through the hood kind of defeats the purpose, IMO.  Anyway, it is not an easy problem, but could be done with the right custom parts.