I have a factory fiberglass hood I need to crate for long term storage.
The hood is off a 2006 Mustang Shelby GT-H with factory paint and vinyl stripes.
It is in excellent condition.

I am wondering about long term storage damage potential and how to mitigate such things.
I have a few options in mind for storage.

1) Fully bag, with dessicant, then build a crate to cradle and protect the hood as needed.
With this option I am wondering if the bag may interact with the paint and stripes, causing issues after a few years. I am wondering if any of the supports built into the crate to cradle the hood in place will leave witness marks, impressions, or other such damage after a few years.
If I use some stiff foam insulation (think pink board style) will that interact with the paint or fiberglass to eventually have a detrimental chemical reaction.

2) Bag and dessicant the hood then hang from the wall via the factory hood mount holes.
Here I wonder if the hood may warp and change shape after years of hanging from the few factory mounting holes?

3) Bring in the house and hang from the wall as decoration?
Same basic warp issues as before except the hood is now open and exposed to whatever within the house. I'm not so worried about the hood getting damaged from being exposed in the house as I am warpage or other issues from being hung for years on end.

If I built the crate and cradle the hood are there any better materials to build with that will literally touch the hood and paint?
Any and all useful information is appreciated.

If the weather where you are is as nice as MN today I hope you will be doing something fun with your cars today.

Thanks

I don't know if this response will be helpful but I will tell you my experience anyway. I had Spintech on my Mustang. Hooker Long Tubes, standard crossover  (Not X pipe) and full length exit at rear valence.  The mounts were factory with the heavy rubber insulator. 
They always had a weird reverberation. Almost a drone. I have Dynamat under the carpet and all the way into the trunk. It ends at the fuel tank drop off . I also have the factory style tar insulation and jute still on the carpet. It still carried into the cabin. I changed them to Flowmaster 40 series Delta.
They stopped the odd drone but still are loud.
I am the second person I know who also had an issue with the Spintech product.
I don't  know if that is helpful but it was a personal experience and not hearsay.

Thanks, your reply is helpful because it is an account of what you experienced directly.

Thanks again for all the helpful hints, and ideas.
After all the little repairs and parts replacements I did get it running really well, but not without the occasional stumble.

I sold it this weekend to a guy who was very happy with the way it ran, stumble and all.

As much as I am happy the truck sold (I was done with it as my kid learned how to drive a stick in it) I am a little bit bummed I did not get that stumble ironed out.
I was planning on adding another chassis/engine ground but it sold before I got to that job.

Thanks again.

First, ANY new soft suspension parts will be better than the 50+ year old stuff originally installed at this point.
This means if you can only find "OEM rubber" it is good to go as long as it fits properly.

I have installed many different bushings over the years.
The stiffer poly bushings will provide a stiffer result than the OEM rubber.
There are various durometer bushings available, but you have to do a LOT of homework to get the right parts.

An example may work like this. Lower control arm bushings for your 1965 Mercury full size....best versions are the same as what Chevy used on thier 1987 IROC Camero lower control arm bushings.
Front sway bar bushing for the same car are best served by using the rear bushing as supplied for a 3/4 ton 1976 Camper Special with the 8100 GVWR rating.

Lots and lots and lots of searching to find the "right" parts in some instances.

Otherwise buy a kit and install the whole thing...or go piece by piece from the suto parts store if you can get it.

The bright colored poly bushings usually work okay, but they are often universal in scope and require fitting in many instances.
Plenty of bushings do NOT come with the inner or outer sleeve...and this sucks because if the car is old it usually has some issues with the sleeves.

The poly graphite bushings work well, and provide some self lubrication, but they can squeak and creak just like other poly bushings.

Mixing poly and rubber bushings usually results in deformed and quickly worn rubber bushings.

Adding grease to the poly bushings when installing works great. I make a nice grease from silicone grease and graphite and it works great, but just like ANY greased item the grease eventually wears away, dries up, or stopes working in some manner.

This means if you can get greasable bushings it will serve you better over the long haul, but greasing is not required.

Depending on the ride, look, and feel of the finished suspension work you desire will have a big factor in which bushings to choose.

If you put in a certain bushing and find you really hate those bushings....replace them with something else. Just because you put in new bushings does not mean you HAVE to keep them until they wear out too.

Last, the state of aftermarket parts is horrible these days. The once awesome MOOG and TRW suspension parts are no longer awesome...and some of them are almost pure crap.
In this regard I have found specialized makers seem to have better products.
Places like Energy Suspension have provided good results for me...other than the bright colors they sometimes only offer certain parts in.
Having a whole pile of bright red bushing in an othersie stock 60's car can look a bit off if you are picky.

I would like to thank all who gave information about possible shops.
I really appreciate the help.

I called a few places and decided to go with Tim's in Coon Rapids.
They seemed to talk the talk and were not phased one bit by what I was asking about.

I'll let you know how the finished product comes out, as well as the cost, and what Tim's shop is like to work with.
Having a good quality shop on hand is becoming a rare thing these days so we really should let everyone know when one is found and verified.

You might want to take a look at this link, http://heartthrobexhaust.com/
They are located in Litchfield, MN which is about an hour or so west of the Twin Cities.  They are one of the monthly advertisers in the MSRA Linechaser and appear to be capable of doing what you are looking for.  I have not ever used them, just aware of their monthly ad.  The website does have a Youtube video on their business. 

The Linechaser also has 2-3 other advertisers that do exhaust systems that are in the Twin City metro area.  Let me know if you would like their contact information.  Heartthrob appeared to be the most capable based off their advertisement.

Yes please, I would like the other names.
Thanks for the input.

I would like to know if there is a high quality exhaust shop in Minnesota (twin cities metro area prefered)

I want to get some very tight clearance tail pipes made, from mandrel bent stainless if possible, but I currently do not know of a shop with the right experience and staff to do such work.

I know plenty of exhaust shops, but most do not have the equipment to do proper custom mandrel bent tube, or they don't have anyone on staff who is really good at such work.

Thanks in advance.

I've had wires inside of the harness corrode to green dust. No indication from the outside. Also had the battery ground cables do the same thing. It will drive you mad. Last one I had was in the fuel pump harness between the relay and the pump. I don't know how a wire can corrode with no damage or nicks in the insulation. One was an 88 Ranger, an 87 F-150 and a 92 Ranger.

How did you eventually find the troubles?