in the 60s maybe early 70s 396 fe were used for a short time on our tracks west central wis.   as I remember they used the 361 steel truck cranks and lemans rods-but also narrowed nascar rods                 the engines were tunnelports - to turn rpms for power rods/pistons were heavy and valve train issues   caused more problems than a 454 tunnelport pulling harder off the corners at lower rpms---the cars were probably the fastest short track in the country 5/8 paved at lacrosse wis.---any one remember    dick trickle/tommy reffner-- trickle and fe ford power won well over 1000 races more than 70 in one               season in the midwest --few mopars ran and fe power out ran the 496/498 chev. at the time!!!                  I would run a nice 361 steel crank for a build like this - good insurance! and not too expensive to do!                with lighter/better parts today--- turn th rpms up!!   JS oldiron

                                                                                                                                                                  --noise can travel strange places starter drag /block plate bell /throw out bearing - check from bottom  --splash rollers do not like a lot of low rpm- esp. with deep pan/screen tray--rocker shaft lacking oil?----really do not want to run a bunch of hard  bearings through engine --others may have spring psi- rpm/cam ramp info. ---I would not run big/cam splash rollers low rpm--extra gas is easier/cheaper for -cruse / trip  higher             rpm than time for engine parts        good luck  JS-oldiron.fe

                                                                                                                                                                On my 66 fairlane in -  1967 the front hot look were 6.50-15 ATLAS POLYCRON with 4 or 4.5 x 15 Cragar             s/s rim rear tires used the cheapest /largest/ softest/biggest/recap I could buy -seems my center oiler 2x4++   was hard on rear tires -a few rear 9 inch gears-and a few 3rd gear parts in my toploader too---I still   have a the pair of the front tires and rims!!! --  still think crager s/s are the best look for 66/67 failane! What I miss most is sunoco pump dialing 190 up to 260 AT.35$ A GAL!!!!   damn - feeling older                         than dirt now- late 50s - 5gal for a buck to get the friends car and girls to the drive-in for a view of the movie from the back seat

                                                                                                                                                             I worked for a construction company in the early 70s and had several crews to keep track of and each supervisor could order a new pickup of choice. I ordered a (as I remember a heavy 1/2 I think upgraded load)   the motor i got was 390 w/auto not sure of gas mileage seemed to be very good and  had good power so good with load capacity it got borrowed for some long hauls for different equipment I think it was 2bbl with higher rear gear(2wh drive) ---maby the motor was running in a good rpm torque zone most of the time or just a good combination -bore/stroke and torque-- over time 390 stroke helped mileage/power over 332/352--410 may be better for heavy p/u --for p/u and a light work 390 always seemed to do well -2bbl or small 4bbl seemed to do best on fuel-- put a brick under foot seems to help most!!! and keep in good torque zone build for good low rpm work   

                                                                                                                                                              question I have would be - bearing material would have to get by your filter and into oil passages and be pumped into lifter or material would have to find a way into lifter to cause a problem -- if roller rinse             roller should be OK -or how would material get into lifter?   trash would rinse into crankcase but not oil passages?

                                                                                                                                                           our high might get in the 20s today- the only damn thing that will work around here is a hybrid -- ford      pickups with diesel have TWO big alternators one for electric heater - your butt will be cold for a long                  time for the truck to warm up  unless you are pulling a HEAVY load uphill around in winter here !!                    in the cold part of winter here you need real good fuel or additive to keep fuel from gelling up!! when it is really cold here -20/30 not counting wind chill this winter -40/50 exposed skin freezes in around               15 minutes-- you better have good heater for motor or indoor garage with heat or you will never start   up -- gas with synthetic oil and fuel injection may start!!   as old SOB i have been outside when it was   50/51 below zero real temp w/o wind chill--- had to add gas to keep number 1 fuel flowing to heat                home as tank was outside and fuel would not flow without gas!!---not often that cold but when it is gear lube is very close to not flowing/frozen!!   need to get rid of all the batterys after dead and do not want to be near big battery in bad crash with the battery powered fire!!     

                                                                                                                                                              w/o getting metric ? top bolt hole seems to be just under 1/2 inch and average center to bottom about 2 5/8 --primary thickness is on jegs site -old school-- headers feel good/chunky- not like tin-the 3/8     flange looks to stand some cuts for added fit or touch up weld to move a little to get to most flow or                     fit--- but anything w/b better than iron logs!! with pretty good price---seems like you should be able     to move around a little to fit and get good seal  --   john

                                                                                                                                                                    received  F150 truck headers part 30075 -3/8 thick flange- port 2- in ht 1-5/8width primary 1- 3/4 collector 2 7/8     reducer/adapter >   2 1/2-included gasket- port/adapter bolts - welds clean --pass 3/4 inch good port exit- driver port tighter turn -- bottom flange bolt 5/8 slot -center to bottom of port 7/8to1in weld   thickness difference-  $185 add $15 other stuff @ $ 200 free ship -- no current way to check fit but looks good--seems to be solid buy if you can use JEGS stuff