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Messages - DuckRyder

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31
FE Technical Forum / Rocker Adjuster Wear - Rapid
« on: June 25, 2023, 09:14:58 PM »
We are dealing with a 445 FE (the same wear appeared when it was a 390 as well).

It has

  • C8AE-H heads.
  • Erson Rockers
  • Crower 280R "Street Roller"
  • Crower 280R HIPPO Lifters (same part number as a LIMA motor)
  • Crower Springs - 68385-2 390/405 open
  • Smith Pushrods
  • 90 Holley Jets in the oil feeds

I am having issues with rocker arms adjusters wearing rapidly, i had told smith to drill the pushrods for oiling in case i wanted to do that, perhaps that was a mistake. The adjusters wear fairly quickly to the point they have a nipple matching the pushrod oiling hole. (we are talking 1000 miles or so) I have used, the Erson, Smith Brothers and Harland sharp adjusters with similar results. The Springs are the ones recommended for the cam, and are not in coil bind, i measured the pushrods way back when and don't remember the length.

I am considering:

  • Rechecking valve train geometry
  • Reordering pushrods without oiling holes
  • Decreasing Spring Pressure (what spring) Maybe Comp 924-16 347LBS/in
  • Putting a 300 6 in it
  • Putting a Coyote in it
  • putting a Howards C6OZ-6250-B.in it

Only sorta joking with those last 3

Any ideas?

32
FE Technical Forum / Re: Fixing Crankshaft Threads
« on: June 25, 2023, 02:28:40 PM »
Thanks for the input.

This happened a while back which is why i'm not real clear on some of the questions.

It did torque but it did not feel great, the trigger for my bringing it up is i'm considering changing a camshaft and i have low confidence it will torque again, that being the case i will either have to leave it alone or deal with it.

I no longer have a very good place to pull the engine so i may just leave it alone, though it bugs me.


33
I think you will still need an adapter the mount the TBs, i know they make them. I don't think a square bore is precisely square.

I also wonder if you could mount a non stealth TB in the rear position....

34
FE Technical Forum / Re: Fixing Crankshaft Threads
« on: June 22, 2023, 08:25:10 PM »
I'll second Jays concern about the crank heat treat....as well as the inner bore of the damper.
It's too bad but that inner bore must be checked prior to installation because many of these parts are NOT correct right out of the box.....and it stinks.

Its a DSC spacer and a ATI damper both were in use on the prior Ford crank and fit well.

Some questions for you;
1) By number, how many threads were pulled out?

I don't remember, all but 3 or 4 is my recollection, at least that the bolt could get to.

2) How much force was used to seat the damper?....assuming it was seated in the process of pulling the threads out.

Too much apparently, but it did not seem too bad - i used a ratchet and not an impact

3) Were the threads of the rental tool in good condition prior to using the tool?

To the best of my recollection. it seemed to thread in fine.

4) Are you certain the damaged threads are from the crank hole and not from the rental tool?....In other words, did you look into the crank hole to verify those threads are damaged?
I say this last part because I have had rental tools fail and my first reaction was....Oh crap, my stuff is damaged, when in fact, nothing of mine was damaged in the least...the tool had failed.

Oh yeah

I must have gotten a friday afternoon crankshaft.

     That may be so, but is this the Ford O.E. soft cast iron crankshaft, that perhaps someone previously may have just abused the treads of?  ???  As if this is, particularly one of the "import" steel examples, I might start to get nervous as I have found some of these that definitely exhibited over heat-treated treading surfaces to the point of being brittle, and if so may prove quite the task to repair.   :-\

It's a Scat Stroker. It also had an out of round oil slinger

Quote
From my reading my 2 choices are tap it larger for a Hemi Bolt or helicoil. Either is going to require drilling it out, is there any solution to doing so with the crank it the engine and in the truck?


     I would not suggest going to the larger "Hemi Bolt" as that would require a larger diameter drilling process which would increase the likelihood for failure in the endeavor; yes the Heli-Coil process also does require drilling, but the sum is greatly relegated to just the removal of the original treading (which you imply is already greatly missing!  :( ) therefore the drill does tend to a great degree to self-pilot, and only with a rather deft touch can one really F.U.!   ::)

     As far as in the truck, with the Heli-Coil process, if one can make enough room to work, then I surely wouldn't hesitate.   ;);  though yeah, still dread the thought of having to do it!    :(

Good Point

     Scott.

I guess i will try the helicoil when i get a chance, Plan B would be a new crank and hope i could have the balance matched. Plan C might make me persona  non grata on the FE Power Forum

35
FE Technical Forum / Fixing Crankshaft Threads
« on: June 17, 2023, 08:54:24 PM »
I must have gotten a friday afternoon crankshaft.

When installing the damper (with a rental Tool) the treads came mostly out with the tool. there were enough to hold the bolt with locktite but don't really trust it and want to fix it.

From my reading my 2 choices are tap it larger for a Hemi Bolt or helicoil. Either is going to require drilling it out, is there any solution to doing so with the crank it the engine and in the truck? Or do i need to resign myself to pulling it all out?

36
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Windsor Cams - Explorer, E or B
« on: December 21, 2022, 09:14:53 AM »
Hi Ross, Joe, Randy, Tom and Scott. (and anyone i Missed.)

Ive done nothing with this, but wanted to thank y'all who talked about Ranger rear end swaps in particular, because knowing later models had disk helps me. The ol Ranger is chugging along, but the 7.5 has developed an increasing in volume whine ... So the rear end information may come in handy here after the first of the year as i definitely want to do an 8.8 and probably won't do the Explorer due to welding.. I guess the search is on for a 2010 - EOP Ranger 8.8 3.73:1 Track Lock.

Trying to get a shop built, then the 5.0 swap might be back on the table.

37
thank you!

38
What an i missing here, i do not see a way to change the time zone to correctly reflect the local time?

39
Using the wallace calculators i get 9.9 static with 72cc heads and 8.16 DCR with a 270HR @106 (my current 280R is at 110 which gives me a 8.18 DCR)

I don't know when it got so hard to find a cam card online...

So the milder cam might be about the same but the ALU and better chamber shapes might help...  :-\


40
Drat, gotta hunt up a windows box to run the DCR calc...

In everyone's experience how close are the E-Heads to 72cc out of the box? (I have actually CCed mine)

41
Thanks Joe.

So E heads, use the FPA Intake, Shorty headers...

Guess is gotta go do some math and see where that gets me on the DC with he E-heads and see if i can get away with something like a comp XR270HR or 280HR. Suspect ill have the change the converter for the 280, that's part of the problem now...


42
Many years ago when Scott Vincent (he was active on the old FE Forum at the time, haven't seen anything from him in quite some time) ported the heads and intake he filled the bottom of the ports and matched them. The last time i pulled the intake before the 445 build several of them were gone and i removed the rest... (id have to look back and see how many were actually gone).

I'm a little dubious about the Epoxy for this reason...

406 shorty advice noted...

43
It is in a 72 F100 2wd, backed by a C6 and a 3.50:1 gear on ~26.5 tall tires.

So background i built a 390 from a 360 and lost a bearing, i rebuilt it as a 445. It also has a Holley Terminator Stealth EFI and Hooker headers.

When i originally built it i had the stock C8AE-H heads extensively reworked with CJ valves and so forth but this brought the combustion chamber down to 65-66cc I also used a FPA aluminum CJ intake (i think it is a rebranded Blue Thunder) this of course creates a port mismatch. I also put in a Crower solid roller it is a 280R "street roller" and Erson rockers, it has HIPPO lifters. I reused all of this on the 445 build.

I'm pretty happy with the cam and build except that the adjusters on the ersons keep wearing rather dramatically and the idle needs to be higher than i would like. It does sound nice. However i no longer really care if it has any lope. I suspect the spring pressures (which are very high are at least partially (if not entirely) responsible for the wear on the rocker adjusters, plus i really don't want to adjust them anymore.

The original build was at 10.6:1 with 1020s and the 445 is at 10.6ish with the thicker felpros. it is somewhat sensitive to total advance over 34ish and ping.

I had it chassis dynoed as a 390 and was pretty disappointed, however we do now know that it was sick at the time...

I am now here looking for ideas about how to proceed with some modifications to the build with the goal of simplifying the whole thing, i and thinking hydraulic roller, i'm really not seriously opposed to changing the heads but if i could get the DCR and idle under control with the existing ones that'd be nice. Cost within reason isn't a huge issue.

I'm also thinking of using a stock "S" intake (i have it) and the (dismal) factory exhaust manifolds. I just want to put it together one last time and forget about the engine part of the project. I have even considered a flat tappet and stock rocker arms.

So what are the collectives ideas about a very mild rework for an automatic truck? How bad power wise am i going to shoot myself in the foot with the factory manifolds... can i get 350hp out of it?


44
I can't help with 4wd Headers, but will say Hooker for a 2WD Bump are very nice but they follow the "truck ports" VERY closely and are very finicky about gaskets.

RobRoy did a fairly comprehensive study of 2wd headers on Fordification, but not sure how much will correspond to different models.

Agree that better pictures of all the Sanderson Truck headers would be nice. I never did figure out what precisely was different about the camper special versions.

Anyway..

45
FE Technical Forum / Erson Roller Rockers
« on: March 05, 2022, 08:48:32 AM »
Are Erson's roller on the shaft or bushed?

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