I know someone on here has had to deal with this . I have two 60s mustangs that I need titles for. I see tons of services out there for getting a title . Im interested to hear any stories from members that may have had to deal with it successful or not...

Thanks

This is about how I saw this thread going. Yes as someone else mentioned with that weight and those 60s I would nail one on it. AS far as the "Jig" welding is concerned... Well . let me first say that everyone saying that the jig is the way to do this is absolutely right... At the same time , after having done quite a few over the years I would simply say go take a look at whats for sale out there as a "Jig" . It had to be more than 20 years ago when I laughed at the first one of them someone showed me and I made my own out of a huge chunk of rod and made my own bushings.. So beefy in fact I didnt feel like using the damn thing after the first few times.

I guess my point is... Most of the jigs that are out there that you can buy are great for mounting flanges but they sure as hell will NOT keep a housing from going bananas if you were to fire up the welder and just go at it non stop. Its going to pull the dinky rod and the housing and the whole 9 (Pardon the pun) What you will find is that you will end up welding it as jay mentioned anyway which if done without the jig and done slow with a tig or strategically with either welding process will get you where you want to be. The brace itself is what holds the housing from going anywhere anyway right ? When you think on that a little you feel better about doing it. Just dont go all Dr Frankenstein on it all at once... Strategic small welds  . The first ones you do are what will hold it straight for the others.. I also DO NOT continuous weld any brace  .In fact some braces are made so that you cannot.... Think about rust and coating the thing too up inside or leave yourself ports so that you can rattle can up in the thing to prevent from the inevitable rust streaks.

Whats the old Comet weigh Jim ? Does the car see a ton of action ? Ive done my share over the years some on a fixture and some not . Ive not had one go wonky because it wasnt on the rod when I welded it up . I do however treat them a bit different when I weld them up.

OK , so whats the consensus on starters ? Whos high torque starter has the best reputation here ? Also , has anyone tried a "Mean Green" starter ? Engine with moderate compression and headers . Will see a rough life I imagine...
Thanks !

Oh boy this went south...So in the late 80s I found there was a ton more money in building race cars than there was racing them so thats what consumed my time while mine sat Dormant.  I have one old friend from that era and he too was hooked on the sauce and still is today. I did a 7.50 cert SN95 for him in the early 2000s . The first car I did for him was an early Fox and if any of you have raced at the Beach in the way back you remember the wires coming out to the tree over head.. Well they yelled at him numerous times because they thought he was going to hit the wires when the old fox left on the back bumper (It kinda did look like it but was a long way from hitting it). Mike , is the guys name for reference... Well Mike did transmissions and was good at it ,very good . He is meticulous...Which is why I mention him.
Both of us have seen NUMEROUS N2O failures over the years in peoples cars .Nearly every single time it was either because they were stupid or they had some very suspect wiring or Fuel delivery or switches or all of the above (IE stupid). Ive seen a couple I guess that just didnt have the parts to handle the shot . I have seen too many to count that suffered broken transmissions , broken rears , broken welds on shoddy additions . Detonated Clutches and bell housings . the list goes on and on .

Neither Mike , Nor I , ever had such failures  .We didnt because we knew what we had to do in order to use it and we respected that . I recall once when we ran the timing up on his Brothers car higher than we should have because we were trying to get the 302 in the 9s , we sacrificed a few electrodes and it was our fault that it happened . This was a little bit of nothing car that they had done the engine in and I had done the cage and chassis . Car ran in the 10.17 to 10.20 range all day long... Try that with an FE that you have literally no money to build WITHOUT N2O.

I said this at the onset of this thread. Most of the time if you have an engine that can handle the increase and you have a well setup system , the failure is going to be another thing in the car that was fine with lets say 450 HP and would run that way till the cows come home , but wasnt so fine with that shock of 1 ,2 ,3 , or 500 HP being thrown at it like right now.

This isnt the N2Os fault people  . Parts all have a threshold of what they can deal with . Its no different without the bottle on the car. You have a engine that is pumping out lets say 300 hp and you get those Heads from Jay and a solid roller and a big ole carb and giant REF headers and take her for a pass and those rod bolts that WERE perfectly fine decide that this addition wasnt in their contract so they quit. Its exactly the same thing.
Properly installed and tuned N2O systems do not inherently burn engines down . Its simply not true.. And no , when you are talking Nitrous , 100HP is nothing . Yeah , it might be to those stock connecting rods that were borderline to begin with but again, Not anything that can be blamed on the N2O . You simply over powered the parts you have installed.

The statement about having a spare short block around can be applied to anyone thats going to beat on the cars. It damn sure can be applied to me . I have no mercy with or without the kit on it. If it cant do what I need it to do then it should throw parts out . I have no one to blame but me and knowing that about myself  , yeah , I have more than one spare engine around.

I have a Fogger kit here that WILL be going on one of these that I am doing now with a  controller... N2O simply cannot be beat dollar for dollar.... It cant be done..

Look , I hear you , however it is the requirement . Even tho every single one of these I have been able to operate with one hand  . The winters was the one that everyone started putting door latches on looking all stupid because it had no lock out .
I dont care for a cable shifter nor do I care for having a lockout , but I care alot less for getting hassled in the lanes and I have been many years ago. Of course you can show up in a new mustang or a dodge with no cage or anything else and run in the 9s and no one says a peep apparently.

No reverse lockout . And thanks for reminding me that its not just paranoia when I feel the entire universe is fighting me.....    I never went so far as to ad that sexy little lever there like the man with the fairlane did. The thing that makes the mustang shifter nice I guess could make it a bit unsafe in those regards...Ive never had a reverse issue as I was always shifting away from reverse until I went to bump it into neutral after the beams... Just had to be aware...Did you have a lockout worked into yours ? If you did I would love to hear about how you did it.