I'd base it all on how much horsepower you want and then do a pro/con of each scenario.  The TFS heads make a lot of power, but I think the cork would be your 3x2 intake and that would become more apparent on a larger engine. 

It's hard to know what to do in this situation.  When you start looking at other options, then you open Pandora's box. 

I don't think I'd be scared to run the stock 428 crank and remember, when you add displacement, the camshaft needs change.  It takes more duration to fill the cylinders of a larger engine.  Keeping the same cam and adding cubes would make the peak hp rpm go down.

I just built two 428's and used Molnar rods.  One rod set averaged 757g and the other set averaged 759.  I haven't built a factory rod FE in awhile, but a reference book lists 62-up factory rods at 761-775g.   Not sure how ARP rod bolts play into that, but it could be that you may not need a re-balance at all.  Just have to weigh some parts and see, or ask for the balance card from where your crank was balanced.

Factory cranks don't really scare me, I've used a lot of them over the years.  This isn't a race application, or high rpm application, and the factory cranks are pretty stout.  I was going to stick a 428 crank in JJ but decided to stick with the 3.500" stroke just because it's an underdog stroke.   I'm sure if it's been ground that it's been magged as most crank grinders do that as a default.

OK so here are a few examples of factory 428 cranks that failed:

In this case he just shifted into 5th gear at 50mph and felt a vibration and that was it.  The broken crank took out the block. You may note in the pictures the nice H beam rods...
http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=7597.15

General discussion that has some comments and opinions on the factory 428 crankshafts.
http://fepower.net/simplemachinesforum/index.php?topic=8539.0

Just like the rods they have a fatigue life and the same concerns apply. 

Regarding the rod weight the number I had was from an old bobweight sheet.  May have been an early rod, the sheet did not say.  So I just weighted a C7AE rod that came out of a virgin 1969 390-2V motor.  So that one weights in at 774 grams.  Now keep in mind you really need to know what the big end and little end weight. Reason is the balance factor is 2 x big end and 1 x small end.  So any change on the big end will be twice as big as far as how it affects the bobweight.  I'd say plan on a rebalance.  If it was within 10 grams on the bobweight I'd buy a lottery ticket as is your lucky day.

Glad to see Brent agrees with me that the 3x2 intake is holding you back.  428 or 462 it is leaving power on the table, but not everything is about the last HP on a street/strip deal IMHO. Add another 30 cubes and change nothing your peaks will likely come down 200 - 300 RPM.  You likely will not make much if any more peak HP, but everything down lower will be more.  You will be making a good bit more torque at 3k-4k for sure. If we want to talk about what is hard on an engine it is RPM.  the magnitude of the forces go up exponentially with RPM.  So if you get it done at say 5,500 RPM instead of 6,000 RPM it is easier on everything. Now yes a 1/4" longer stroke your piston speed for a given RPM is higher, but your piston weight is less and that matters.

If it was mine I would either leave it alone or put a stroker in it as I said.  Only thing that bothers me is it took a fall.  My concern would be that there is not an internal crack in that crankshaft.  Magging the crank will not detect an internal crack.  You would have to x-ray it.  Now I've seen stuff that took a fall, I did it years ago with a 351w.  That engine would see 7,000 RPM every time I drove the car because I was young and stupid. It never broke.  Now that I am old and know what can happen I'd be concerned.  Guess sometimes is better not to know too much...

Anyway good luck with it.

Well getting knocked over and hitting the floor would concern me. Is hard to argue against a stroker kit if you have the money.  Get a Scat cast crank and Molnar 6.7 rods and the Mahle pistons certainly an upgrade both in strength and more modern stuff.  Also the BBC rod journal is a better deal and you end up with a lighter piston.  I would not be concerned with a stroker being any harder on the cylinder walls.  If you are concerned have the block sonic checked, but if it was good at .030" another .005" off the wall is not going to kill it.

I looked up the Ampco gears and am interested.  I don't see which one is FE with the stock shaft diameter.  Can you help me with a p/n?

Is really more the material AMPCO-45.  The Comp cams PN: 433 is for a .467" shaft which should be stock size.  That said I would still measure your distributor shaft size.

Used to run  bronze gear with a solid roller cam.  Changed it at 10,000 miles as was showing some wear.  Have use a good gear as not all bronze gears are same material or machined correctly. Ampco is good. Also install correctly, polish the cam gear (remove sharp edges) and mod to have extra oiling on gear.  I did not do the extra oiling mod on that one, but it can help. 

If you are stuck on using a steel gear and is just a matter of shaft size can make a bushing or hone it out all depending on the gear and shaft size. 

Quote from: Joey120373 on August 29, 2021, 07:14:17 PM

Hmm, now I want to check what my K1 rods have….

ARP 2000.

You're good with Molnar or K1.  They use ARP 2000 bolts. 

Ratings are ratings, right, lots of variables such as rpm, tune, etc., but K1 rates their rods for 1400 hp with those bolts.  I read all the time of guys using them on boosted engines up over 1000 hp.

Think RPM and how much weight hanging off the small end of the rod matter more. Also if you close the throttle and unload the piston at high RPM.  Never understood how you could put a HP rating on a rod.

Don’t think they’re the same company, that Stevens guy copied Edelbrock. Who in their right mind would copy Edelbrock nowadays?

Take a look at the part number on that 351 block you linked. Is MPN: PCE286.1049 you know what the PCE stands for? Pro Comp Electronics. About 10 -15 years ago Procomp started selling the heads, blocks, cranks, etc... under the Speedmaster name and sold the distributors and other electronics under the Pro comp electronics name. Looks like they pretty much have stopped selling anything under the Procomp name as I see now the dizzys are Speedmaster too.  Anyway believe what you want.

Speedmaster used to be known as Procomp.  Wonder why they changed their name....

Well if it works all that matters. Ford did put the rocker tins under them too. Still don't like it from a technical standpoint, but don't like the whole 4 bolt stilts arrangement either...