SMF - Just Installed!
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Rotella or Delo are both fantastic oils for the money. Delo is a little better these days, based on our oil analysis lab at work. Threads on the Bobistheoilguy forum seems to reflect similar results. When comparing/trying to choose between two similar motor oils, a really big clue comes right under the cap. Typically, if quality control/oil purity is a primary concern, you will find an air tight seal on the container you have to peel off. Delo has one. Rotella does not. For your purposes, either would be fine. Since your cam/lifters have already "mated", you are not really at risk for damage here unless you run some vegetable oil or something like that. Another commonly overlooked tip: SHAKE the oil jug before adding all of its contents. Additives will settle out and rest on the bottom of the jug, rather than making it to the inside of your motor. We "turn over" our bulk oil tanks on our large equipment quarterly in an effort to extend reliability/MTBR (mean time between repair).
I realize the thread is kind of old, but should this turn up in a search for someone else later - had to add some info. I run Delo in everything I own. Motorcycles, lawn mowers, hot rods... everything.
We're on a mission from God!It's got a cop motor, cop tires, cop suspension and cop shocks. Get the lighter fixed and hit it!!
It's 106 miles to Chicago we got a full tank of gas, half a pack of cigarettes, its dark and we're wearing sunglasses...!
There was an internal leak from the oil galley where the side galley intersects the 5th main galley, likely from core shift. Invisible and undetectable until the motor was on the dyno. Doug offered to replace the block. After talking to the engine builder and Doug, I decided to have the builder sleeve the galley rather than start over. Doug covered the cost of the repair.worth the wait, I think I was on a list for a 428 iron block for more than 18 months.Not only worth the wait, but Doug is a stand-up guy. I had a problem with my 427 block and he worked with me to make it right. Definitely a good company to do business with.
Mind sharing what said problem was and how it was handled?
worth the wait, I think I was on a list for a 428 iron block for more than 18 months.Not only worth the wait, but Doug is a stand-up guy. I had a problem with my 427 block and he worked with me to make it right. Definitely a good company to do business with.
A chassis dyno with a brake on it will tell you what you want to know. You need to be able to apply a small load to the engine in order to simulate part throttle driving and cruise conditions. So the chassis dyno can't be just an inertia drum, it also needs to have some sort of brake to apply a steady state load. Call around and ask the chassis dyno shops what their setup is.Thanks!
Andy,
If you want to do street driving testing on a dyno then you'll need to find someone who has a eddy current dyno rather than a water brake. With a eddy current dyno you can do idle testing and part throttle low speed testing. Most water brake dynos are designed for WOT testing and do not have enough control features to test an engine at idle or off idle. Water brake dynos are basically an "all or nothing" design. They would cost a lot more if they had more control features and most people only use them for WOT testing so there isn't any reason for the extra expense.
That's a pretty mild bumpstick for a 470 inch motor. It will be both reliable and fun in a Cobra, and it won't be fussy with you. Plenty of low end grunt.Brent,
It's not wise to pull an engine down that low with a full load on it. It's a good way to torch holes in the pistons.Brent,
A dyno is generally used for telling you how much horsepower you make at WOT at a given rpm. You don't cruise at WOT, and if you go WOT, you're either gonna accelerate or lose traction.
Post the cam specs and I'll tell you how it will behave on the street.
