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Messages - BattlestarGalactic

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1246
FE Technical Forum / Re: need help
« on: April 17, 2017, 02:42:00 PM »
I've used the rubber adapter sleeves to downsize the hose to fit a smaller radiator.  That is what I've done on my two galaxies with aftermarket universal radiators.

I've used these:
http://www.hps-siliconehoses.com/

on my Mack truck for air intake and upper radiator hose.  Lots of selection.

1247
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Drag Strip Gear Question
« on: April 11, 2017, 01:16:03 PM »
Friend had same problem.  Bought a stick car and converted to foot brake.  Couldn't hold the car, so had to switch pads.

1248
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Drag Strip Gear Question
« on: April 11, 2017, 12:21:13 PM »
It's so bad at one track they divided up the no Box,  NB or footbrake.  The footbrake guys were whining that a trans brake(even bottom bulb) is an advantage.  Yadda, yadda, yadda.  I can't run in NB, because I use a line lok.  WTF is that about?  Ya, it is an "advantage"?  Say what?  How the hell do I hold my car from rolling without using a line lok?  Needless to say I don't run there, except when the stick group does and we run out own program/rules.

I say make them all put a third pedal in and see how they do?

1249
FE Technical Forum / Re: Crank Swap experiment
« on: April 10, 2017, 09:35:59 AM »
Wow..didn't know those Performers fell off so early?

1250
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Drag Strip Gear Question
« on: April 07, 2017, 10:28:05 AM »
We used to have a line lock wired too, but he hasn't had issues rolling through the lights, so he doesn't use it

He's obviously never raced at Beaver Springs...lol  But instead of rolling through the lights, you roll backwards. ::)

THIS^^^^^

Yes, not ALL dragstrips have a level starting line.  I have always used the line lok to stage.  Get to the first light, tap the brake, hit the button, then bump in to last bulb.  I don't hit the brakes hard, as it is hard to get the car to move with too much brake pressure.  I tried using a brake pressure gauge but even 50# was too much(lowest reading on gauge) so I took the gauge out and just continue to do it by feel.

1251
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Drag Strip Gear Question
« on: April 06, 2017, 03:02:44 PM »
Better then what my friend did.  His was on the tilt control lever(rh side of column foxbody), let go and then have to reach over for shifter to grab second gear.  Yikes.  He did it for many, many years.  I drove it once and was like "nope, not me".

1252
FE Technical Forum / Re: Aluminum or magnesium
« on: April 06, 2017, 01:28:22 PM »
They weld basically the same, but with different results.
I had a couple damaged holes on my Doug Nash case.  I "assumed" it was aluminum and had friend at work weld it with alum rod.  Did fine.  That is until I tried to machine it.  The area welded basically fell out as soon as I plunged a tool into it.  The whole puddle/delusion area, thus even a large area needed welded.  I was confused, til we realized what was wrong.  I purchased some mag rod and rewelded it.  Worked perfect.

The case still had the shift rods in it, so it was feeling heavier then if it was just the empty mag case.  Lesson learned.  Didn't know about the vinegar trick.

1253
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Drag Strip Gear Question
« on: April 06, 2017, 12:44:32 PM »
Well, that is likely your lean out condition, lack of pump shot when going WOT.  You need a pump cam that is longer on taper instead of short.  Don't know what they offer for 50cc pumps(I assume that is what is on the carb).  Holleys usually have two spots to mount the cam.  It rotates it, so moving it later would add to the distance it sprays on throttle position. 

Many guys use a two step for launching.  I tried it years ago.  Back then many of the nostalgia events classified a 2 step as "electronics" and you couldn't use them.  Thus I removed it and never used it in the last 20 yrs(this is my 22nd season racing the wagon).  My two 600 Holley's are vacuum secondaries and I have 50cc pumps on them so it gets plenty of fuel.  My secondaries don't open until I hit high gear(bout 1/8 mile).  By testing(unhooking), the 1/8 miles times are not affected.

One friend put his line lok and two step on a button and manually releases it at launch.  Others mount switches on the clutch pedal to do it automatically.  Though you need to adjust them very carefully as you need the clutch to be grabbing at the same moment the 2 step releases.  If not, it will either bog or the RPM will rapidly climb way higher then you had it set for.

1254
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Drag Strip Gear Question
« on: April 06, 2017, 07:53:39 AM »
That should be able to push enough fuel to not lean out.  Might look at the pump shot.  Start the car, run it to your launch rpm and see how far the throttle is open.  Then shut it off.  Compare that setting to how much pump shot is left, even on the back side. I would likely bet you aren't that far into the throttle to use up the pump shot.  Maybe move the pump cam to the next spot and see if that gives you a later shot.  Cheap way to test it.

1255
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Drag Strip Gear Question
« on: April 05, 2017, 11:00:06 AM »
What carb are you running?

1256
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Drag Strip Gear Question
« on: April 05, 2017, 07:48:01 AM »
Yup, the higher the RPM, the quicker it is recovering/less bog and it will go faster.
You have 3-4 more tenths in it if you can get it moving.  I used to go 11.5's at 116-117 mph.

1257
FE Technical Forum / Re: Crank Swap experiment
« on: April 04, 2017, 02:40:54 PM »
I picked up 75 hp!  No other changes(really, nothing).  Granted you aren't going to see that kind of improvement....but you will notice a much stronger pull down low.

If you go with faster gears, I would try the Performer.  The gears will really need torque to get you moving.

1258
FE Technical Forum / Re: Crank Swap experiment
« on: April 04, 2017, 01:38:46 PM »
Four years back I rebuilt the motor in the wagon.  All I did was put a 4.25 crank in it(same heads, cam, intake, same compression ratio).  Wow, does that long arm make a difference.  I know I'm leaving ton of power on the table, but I was on a budget too.

That streetmaster is likely why you are lacking low end power.  The 3.98 crank will likely help cover that up and make a noticeable improvement all around.

1259
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Drag Strip Gear Question
« on: April 04, 2017, 01:33:40 PM »
Yes, taking the gap from slappers makes it ride rough.  Been there with my '69 F100.  I want to get ladder bars back under it someday, but the slappers at least get me by.  Tightening the gap takes some of the stored energy from the springs wrap up from hitting the tire.

Ya, for this I would look at the Clutch tamer(did I say that? LOL).  What could it hurt?  It basically slips the clutch for you, which is what you need.  I have no personal experience, but have done some reading on his website.

A narrower tire is another good idea, but maybe the Tamer is a better start?

1260
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Drag Strip Gear Question
« on: April 04, 2017, 11:37:15 AM »
For a quick change, take off the 90/10's and put a stock shock back on.  That might slow the front end down and help take some of the bite out.

How tight is the gap on the slapper bars?  Make it tight, so it doesn't allow the tire to dig in as much.


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