Seems Jerico runs out of parts for transmissions they deem obsolete.  Buy their newest one and have parts.  Run an older version and take your chances if something happens to it.  No first hand experience, but just have heard from those that run them.

As for making a boot around shifter?  I made a box with a lip, then used a big super shifter boot to cover it all up.  Works well, even after 22 yrs it is still hanging in there.

I wasn't sure what your plans were for UMTR.  Not sure if the South group would be a closer venue.  Though I don't run with them so you would have to make some new friends there.  Keep me posted on which races you plan to attend.

Yup, nothing other then a stock distributor will fit under a 6/71, as long as you use the BT spacer.  No spacer?? Really nothing fits then.

I've been doing a little research, so I may be getting some terms mixed up. I'm still learning this stuff. I might have gotten the info on jumping out of gear mixed up with the Lenco transmissions, which I think is an issue with them. I also looked at them...briefly..lol  BIG price tag!

You are thinking about a FULL CLUTCHLESS set up, like Liberty Equalizer, or even the full clutchless G force GF5R.  They do not hold gear if not under power.  The split sliders just pop back to neutral position.  Lenco(or Jeffco) are planetary transmissions just like an automatic.  Nothing to worry about coming out of gear, but very power robbing set up.

And yes, Larry, if I had been thinking straight, I would have checked out your set-up closer at the FERR. I might catch you at one of the UMTR races this year though. I've been thinking about joining just to have some fun with the car, and not having to deal with the headaches of sanctioned NHRA races.

Again, thanks for the input on downshifting a Long shifter.

You joining the North UMTR?  We don't really race out your way.  Only other race this season is Pacemakers Aug 5th.  We were at Trails a couple weeks ago.  Not that I don't want you to come run with us, but won't be "close".   Edgar comes from Marion area every race.  Heck one guy comes from New England for our races!!!

As for inputs?  That is only the lengths that are critical.   I run a typical chrysler hemi spline input, but with Ford pilot bearing diameter(I welded mine up from the Chevy dimension it was when I bought it).  I actually run a big input Ford bearing retainer on my nash/Gforce box.  Same bolt pattern.  That allowed me to still run my big input bearing/fork from my toploader.  I just had to come up with another seal to match the retainer bore and the input shaft size.  Common off the shelf piece.

If you ever want to talk, call me and we can go over stuff.  If you get to a race, I'll take you for a spin and show how to drive wtih a Long shifter.

With the repair issues with Jerico you might want to look at Gforce G101 4 spd.

Yes, a V gate is easily downshift-able.  Easier then a 5spd as you only have 2 gates to pick from(1-2, 3-4), unlike a 5spd with 3 gates(1-2, 3-4, 5-r and putting the lever in the right position to get what you want.  It comes with practice).  Even my Nash I can down shift easily, just have to learn the RPM/speed and you can shift it any time you like without crashing gears.  Faceplating makes it even easier then dog ring style.

Should have jumped in my car and taken a feel.  A Piston grip makes it even easier as you don't have to reach over the T handle and down to get to the trigger.  I ran a V gate in my '69 F100 for many, many moons.  I had to custom make the mounts to get it high enough in the truck to be comfortable and easy enough to reach.

The only downfall is the L A R G E hole you need to cut in the tunnel to get it to fit.  I'm talking 6" wide, 12" long? (Save the panel and you can reinstall it if you like).  The shifting mechanism is quite bulky.  The early Hurst Ram Rod was only the size of a std comp plus shifter and you didn't need to cut the floor to get it to fit.  They are long gone and now the only thing available is the larger Long style(Mr gasket made it back in the day, Hurst also copied it).  I have a Ramrod in the garage somewhere, it is beat to death/sloppy and would lock up constantly thus I took it out of my truck and got the Long style.  The Long style lasts a lifetime and you won't regret using it.

I do know that in a Mustang like yours it might take a custom mount to get it rolled back enough to NOT run your fist into the dash when going for 3rd.  My friend had issues originally and Hurst finally made him one that rolled the shifter back at an angle enough to eliminate the dash hitting issue(he used to get red knuckles).  Nothing catastrophic, but just an issue.  In a race car with no dash pad it would not be a problem.

I made my own handle for my car because I sit so far back.  Works flawless.

Are you sure it wasn't because he looks like Michael McDonald...lol

I got that at an airport once.  I told them if I WAS Michael that I wouldn't be flying in coach!!!

Go back 10+ yrs(before the grey hair hit) and I was referenced as Chuck Norris when I was wearing jeans/leather coat and my cowboy boots.

My friends call me McGyver because I can build anything out of anything.  Though I've never welded using two quarters, jumper cables and a generator......

I'm a Mallory guy myself.  Just always liked them.  Just the 80's crab caps that gave me fits.  Everything else I have no issue with.

Not sure about Accel, but I know Mallory has different register diameters on the distributor housing so you can't change cap style.  Crab caps only fit crab cap distributors.  They changed the diameter about 1/16" so they don't fit std distributor housings.  I've wanted to just machine the housing to convert one, but just haven't got around to it.  My blown 390 needs a crab cap style put on it.

I used to have issues with mallory crab caps back in the 80's.  They would crack about every 4-5 months.  Really poor quality.  Not sure today.