16
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Adding to the ID of a king pin .002
« on: October 28, 2022, 09:51:21 AM »
Rebush the axle and ream to size. Be alot easier than building up a kingpin.
Dedicated to Building and Racing the Ford FE Engine
News:
SMF - Just Installed!
Show Posts
This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.
17
FE Technical Forum / Re: FYI - Block Porosity TSB
« on: October 24, 2022, 11:35:16 AM »
I scrapped a d4 block few years ago because of porosity. All along the pan rail and even in to the main saddles. It probably would have been fine for a stocker, I mean it did run for who knows how many years. But I knew I would never use it and storage space was limited at that time.
18
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: 351c Vibration/Growl
« on: October 13, 2022, 10:29:45 AM »I'm puzzled at your (partial) firing order, above. I've owned a bunch of FEs and...??
KS
He is referring to the 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 351W/C firing order.
Which begs the question do we know what the cam is and that maybe a 4-7 swap was done?
19
FE Technical Forum / Re: Roots blown FE Builds?
« on: October 06, 2022, 10:28:08 AM »
This might be a silly thought but could a guy use a 391 crank leaving the front alone for the extra beef and rework the flange to standard FE dimensions? Ive had it in my head that if I ever where to build a blown FE its the route I would at least look into.
20
FE Technical Forum / Re: Best battery for 427 with alternator?
« on: October 05, 2022, 12:47:03 PM »
Personally I recommend an AGM just to eliminate off gassing and rust issues on classics. Started using them in our welders years ago, old Lincoln SA200's or similar. The battery sits below the radiator, battery gasses and the fan throws it under the entire hood rusting them from the inside out.
Deka is good, I have seen Napa decals being stuck on here at Deka factory here in Iowa. That doesn't mean they make all Napa batteries tho.
I personally lean towards Interstate.
Deka is good, I have seen Napa decals being stuck on here at Deka factory here in Iowa. That doesn't mean they make all Napa batteries tho.
I personally lean towards Interstate.
21
FE Technical Forum / Re: Mechanical Tach Drive
« on: September 19, 2022, 03:02:27 PM »
Converted one just like you describe but it was for use in industrial application, it did not have the tach drive but the boss was in the distributor for one. Used the Crane XR-I as it offered the lowest rev limiter (4000). Has been working fine last 7 or 8 yrs but I don't think its available anymore since Crane was bought up. Fit up was the same as a regular points distributor.
Pertronix, just make sure you have a good ground and a clean 12v.
I wouldn't worry about how the weights and springs were setup from Ford, set it up the way you want.
Pertronix, just make sure you have a good ground and a clean 12v.
I wouldn't worry about how the weights and springs were setup from Ford, set it up the way you want.
22
Non-FE Discussion Forum / C6 1985 f250
« on: August 29, 2022, 11:13:27 AM »
So facebook market place got me again. Picked up a well used 1985 f250 with a snowplow which I definitely need and it will be nice having a dedicated plow truck for my property.
Question is on the trans, supposedly the trans is rebuilt with under 1000 miles. Well on the trip home (on a trailer as it would barley run) a battery cable which was for a secondary battery contacted one of the trans cooler lines and weld its self to the line melting a hole in it. I was unaware of the cables when I picked it up. Upon discovering the hole I noticed that there was no lost oil or any sign of oil at all, odd since I know the trans is full and I just drove it into the shop so I fired the truck up and confirmed no oil spurting from this broken line. Luckily it ran so poorly that I haven't driven it any farther then on and off the trailer. Seems to go in gear just fine.
What can cause this? The truck has mostly sat around for many years with very light use and Ive read on the internet that a stuck check ball in the stator is the most likely cause and just to remove it. Is there any other things that can cause this before I have to remove the trans.
Question is on the trans, supposedly the trans is rebuilt with under 1000 miles. Well on the trip home (on a trailer as it would barley run) a battery cable which was for a secondary battery contacted one of the trans cooler lines and weld its self to the line melting a hole in it. I was unaware of the cables when I picked it up. Upon discovering the hole I noticed that there was no lost oil or any sign of oil at all, odd since I know the trans is full and I just drove it into the shop so I fired the truck up and confirmed no oil spurting from this broken line. Luckily it ran so poorly that I haven't driven it any farther then on and off the trailer. Seems to go in gear just fine.
What can cause this? The truck has mostly sat around for many years with very light use and Ive read on the internet that a stuck check ball in the stator is the most likely cause and just to remove it. Is there any other things that can cause this before I have to remove the trans.
23
FE Technical Forum / Re: solid lifters-hyd cam
« on: August 03, 2022, 09:30:34 AM »
Not a recommendation but I have seen it done. Many moons ago my friend and I have a mud racing "truck" Suzuki samurai with a 390 with way to much compression backed by a c6, nine inch and dana 44 front on 34" cut boggers. It really ran well. At the time it had the big Edelbrock hyd flat tappet cam. The owner decided to throw solid lifters on it and that really woke it up! Ran the rest of the season that way with no issues at all save for a few bent push rods due to an over rev. I still have the cam tucked away somewhere I doubt I ever use it except for a good core for a regrind. The engine came out that winter and some horse trading was done for a 528 with TF A460 top end. It was fun to watch.
24
FE Technical Forum / Re: Rod bearing clearance how tight is to tight
« on: July 25, 2022, 04:26:20 PM »
Clearance confirmed at .002. Decided to live with it, good or bad. Rings gapped and pistons are in. Now to order a reduced center timing chain. Way to much slop, block was aligned honed and it was mentioned it was pretty bad.
Just an update for anyone that was wondering.
Just an update for anyone that was wondering.
25
FE Technical Forum / Re: Rod bearing clearance how tight is to tight
« on: July 15, 2022, 11:08:48 AM »
Just heard from the machine shop. They where able to bring clearance up to .002.
26
FE Technical Forum / Re: Rod bearing clearance how tight is to tight
« on: July 14, 2022, 04:24:13 PM »
I should have specified the clearances "I" wanted when I dropped the parts off. That is completely on me, idk why but it just didn't cross my mind. The shop ground the crank per their book resource which called for .001-.0025. And they landed it pretty much in the middle of that. They did a fine job, this was lack of communication on my end.
I asked him to do what he could on the polish, we will see what it is then and I will probably order some different bearings and see how they do before re cutting a fresh cut crank.
When I asked if .0015 was to tight I already knew the answer...
I asked him to do what he could on the polish, we will see what it is then and I will probably order some different bearings and see how they do before re cutting a fresh cut crank.
When I asked if .0015 was to tight I already knew the answer...
27
FE Technical Forum / Re: Rod bearing clearance how tight is to tight
« on: July 13, 2022, 04:28:46 PM »
What would you consider the minimum. Crank is being balanced and will need polished again after that, maybe that will make up a few tenths? Otherwise I will have to look for some different bearings. Machinist is fearful of trying to take one thousand off and keep everything straight and round.
28
FE Technical Forum / Rod bearing clearance how tight is to tight
« on: July 13, 2022, 12:48:21 PM »
390 crank turned .010, bearing clearance is coming in at .0015. King CR809AM010 bearings. To tight?? Hot rod/driver pickup. Not a race engine.
29
FE Technical Forum / Re: Cam end play setup advice
« on: June 16, 2022, 10:12:42 AM »I hate those Phillips bolts. Almost impossible for me to get the torque spec on them that I feel is appropriate with a roller cam setup. I torque those 7/16-14 thrust plate bolts at 55 lb-ft. Hard to do that with a big fat Phillips bit.
A lot of this FE stuff is left over from 1958 ways of thinking.
Not at all difficult to torque. I pull the adapter and I think its #2 bit out of my impact screwdriver set, pop it on the torque wrench and done. Bit fits perfect and the feel is the same as a regular bolt when torquing. Figured this one out few weeks ago set wrench for 50ft-lb. Honestly after doing it I decided that's how I would it here on out, it worked that well.
This is the set I keep around for stubborn screws/bolts but first time I ever used that honking Phillips bit. Really fit perfect.
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-29200-Hand-Impact-Tool/dp/B0002NYDRG/ref=asc_df_B0002NYDRG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309807921328&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10434914323829841396&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9017807&hvtargid=pla-762199117352&psc=1
30
FE Technical Forum / Re: Cam end play setup advice
« on: June 16, 2022, 09:09:21 AM »[/quote]
If we keep talking about it, probably someone will know why the factory bolts require a Phillips driver to tighten them. Does anybody know---or want to hazard a guess.
KS
[/quote]
No idea but I reuse them, why not?