I own several Milwaukee battery powered tools, among them a M18 Fuel 3/8" compact impact wrench (cat.no.2754-20), purchased in '17. The torque produced by this thing is amazing; it has 4 power levels and I keep it on 2, to prevent twisting off ⅜" fasteners while tightening.

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Pretty sure that both the Holey 780 and 735 share the same throttle plate diameters and venturi sizes, and that the reduction to a 735 is due to the "bell bottoms" on the bottoms of the boosters. Since NHRA only measures the venturi and throttle blade sizes during a teardown, they are OK.

Applying that rationale suggests that a competitor should be able to change the boosters configuration in an OEM carb and that , definitely, is not the case. You must run the factory boosters even if there is an "accepted" replacement carb (QF) with a different configuration. That said, I'm certain that some non-standard boosters have slipped through tech during tear-downs.

Yes, I do race primary jet extensions on 2x4 Hi-riser 715 factory carbs. Full disclosure; I use the old (first) style Holley extensions that press into the inside of the slotted outer ring of the jets, the reason being, that I also use the original rectangular brass floats. The smaller Holley extension O.D.s clear the rectangular brass floats without any modifications to the floats.

Doug; I have two spares with little use indicated. What is your shaft O.D. ? The Bushing I.D.'s of these check 0.8415/0.8420. They have ball-type adjusting screws for ⅜ cup push rods. I'm in Cincinnati, let me know if they will help and I'll ship Monday morning.

Additional thoughts following your post. The ultimate additive packages present in some of the assembly lubes, although petroleum based, appear to not respond as completely miscible with engine lube oil in a running engine.

Driven Oil is a quality product, at least in my experience with the synthetic variety, but they seem to employ an extremely slippery additive package and experience says it should be avoided until the rings are seated with a break-in engine lube. Sorry, but I have zero experience with Driven Oil's conventional based engine lube oils.

Strictly a guess, but I would side with you on the recent nature of the introduction of coolant into the engine lube.

The picture of the #8 intake port area seems to me to appear as though both the gasket and the intake have shifted rearward to  misalign with the front vertical edge of the port. Perhaps that observation is a photo graphic artifact but the rear bolt hole in the intake gasket also seems out-of-round toward the front side. Are you using the factory alignment pin to locate the manifold or another method? Additionally, there appears that sealant has possibly closed the gap between the intake manifold and cylinder head around the bottom half of the oil return hole and, if that is the reality, delaying return oil from the head could be problematic. Some manifolds have abundant room in that assembled area but others are quite mechanically restricted.

Adjusting the oil pickup-to-pan floor clearance; should be finalized with the pan gasket in place and set somewhere between .290 to .350 range, ideally. The procedure you are using to drain/change your engine oil seems ideal. Good luck.

Keith,
I'm interested in the main bearing set if I assume correctly that they are for an FE and standard size as the packaging would suggest? Could you also let me know what bore sizes the conn rod big end mandrels were made for on your balancing fixture?

I am available on personal email at "dalkelly@fuse.net"

Thanks

You didn't state your desired end result but I can confirm that the original DST manual shift cars used a throttle bell crank from a 63/64 Galaxie 427 as an alternative to the 260/289 OEM design.