Keith,  send me a PM with your contact info.  I'd need some more info, but I'll give you an opinion ........need to talk some about your end use,  and other parts that effect things.

Pm sent

If you plan to consider the flow from .500-up only, you will need at least a 4.5 bore, 3.5-ish stroke, short/fat intake runners, and a tach that goes to 12000.

 

That's not my plan at all. I'll add the lower numbers as soon as I'm back at the shop if they will help. Believe me I'd love to be able to test several combinations on a dyno given the chance but I don't have near the resources or experience as you guys so as I said I'm just trying to do the best I can with what I have.
I have talked to Jim and I was only wanting other views  and opinions. I realize it's kinda a gray area and somewhat of a guess when I can't  do extensive  Dyno test. I admire you guys work and was just interested in each one of you guys opinion for this garage build. Thanks for taking the time to look it over and thank you for your opinion and information. 

well im just about all loaded up and ready to go. gonna take a bunch of stuff up for the swap meet and see what i can unload. got rid of most all the good stuff last year so im not looking at selling much but many times in the past i have went with just basic junk and done very well so there's hope. really if it just helps pay for the trip ill be happy. just be glad to get away for a few days and see some good ford drag racing. maybe next year ill be able to participate if im lucky.

Jay, Brent ,
here are the flow numbers on the heads,

Intake flow                Exhaust flow
.300 - 216cfm             .300 - 160cfm
.400 - 267cfm             .400 - 197cfm   
.500 - 309cfm             .500 - 231
.600 - 338cfm             .600 - 262
.700 - 361cfm             .700 - 279
.800 - 379cfm             .800 - 288
.900 - 390cfm             .900 - 292
1.      - 399cfm            1.     - 293

Intake flowed with clay orifice, Exhaust flowed with no pipe. these heads had been hand ported a couple times in the past as i have had them a very long time so there were a few very small places that the CNC didn't hit which probably plays into the numbers.
Jay, i maybe shouldn't have set an RPM limit as of yet, im open to spinning it more or less. id like to get the most power+torque out of the combination and maybe let that dictate my shift and max rpm. i think my biggest handicap is the factory block. its a good block with decently thick cylinder walls even after a .090 bore, its filled to within 1-1/2" of the deck, has the re enforced webbing, im using pro-gram cross-bolt caps and a concept design main girdle. i will be using my own priority main oiling setup as well.  pistons are venola custom , rods are manely aluminum (shelf), crank is a scat steel. my bob weight comes in at 1904 grams. anything else i can help with ill be happy to. i plan on documenting the build here very soon once i start putting it together. that is as long as i don't get to many laughs, LOL..
thanks so much guys for any help you may give. also i have a cam here but id rather wait and see what you guys think before i reveal what it is because the few people i have talked to (mostly the so called cam techs) once i tell them what i have i always get the "oh that should work" and yeah idk id rather know what you guys think.
thanks again for any and all help.

not sure yet on the pond block CID, more piston, more stroke and more throw lol. to be determined .. one step at a time for pore boy racing..

Thats the first time I have seen hogan use that type of plenum on a Ford intake. Most I have seen had the offset L shape in the front where this one look's  like they just took a base plenum that they use for "other" intakes and took a chunk  out of it. I have seen a couple FE/Hogan intakes in the past (early to mid 2000's) with the offset L shape in the front and you could squeeze  a base type dizzy with old style cap and 90* wires in.
Very nice piece no doubt but was just surprised to see the way they just chunked it out.

I use to run the old 12- 1 TRW shelf pistons quite often in .030 and .060 over 390 engines strictly for drag racing. Always ran .006 - .007 clearance.  Even knurled a couple of sets of loose pistons (.008 -.009 ) and never had a prob with them.
Of course big tube open headers, a fat lopey cam and a gear drive wine, you probably wouldn't hear allot of piston rock..  .. lol..
good luck ..

Anyone still painting the inside of there blocks with GLYPTAL ?
just a curious question. Some old schoolers swear by it. Others say its a waist of time. Like to know what some of the pro engine builders here think. I got a can on the shelf.. should I use it ?  Id be worried about adhesion no matter how well its prepped and cleaned. Never used it before except in actual electric motor housing for the blowers in the cooling tower.

Anyone here use either the Lunati #95105 or the comp cams #3108kt adjustable billet timing chain sets ? Looks like the cam gear has 6* + or - of adjustment as well as multiple key ways on the crank gear. I was wondering if this is similar to the set up that Barry was developing and hoping cloyds would catch on..