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Topics - fekbmax

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196
FE Technical Forum / Cylinder wall finish
« on: December 01, 2015, 06:25:52 PM »
Cylinder wall finish for moley rings, ? What's your guys thought's.. ??

197
FE Technical Forum / Big intake valve in small bore.
« on: November 30, 2015, 06:05:34 PM »
So what's the biggest intake valve you guys would recommend in a 4.140 bore. I know the big valve in the edly  head will physically fit and clear the cylinder, I'm wondering what you guys think, ? I have had a few say run the biggest valve you can to take advantage of the head porting and others Say its best to un shroud the intake valve and have some clearance around it.

198
FE Technical Forum / oil pans
« on: November 29, 2015, 02:59:47 PM »
does anyone make a full sump rear sump oil pan, i have a couple of the truck pans and remember at one time seeing someone here had some tips on modifying them with trap doors and sump traps and such, id be open for that but im wondering though why none of the pan manufacturers make a full sump pan, i know some of the custom builders do and billet fabrications pans are some of the nicest i have seen but quite expensive. what pan do you guys recommend for all out drag racing, hard leaving clutch car.
also the high volume pump that precision has, any reason to add the high pressure spring and disk or leave it as is ? maybe pull the plug, thread it, make it adjustable ? all old school stuff i guess,

199
Private Classifieds / FORE SALE FE race stuff
« on: November 22, 2015, 08:45:25 AM »
PeP titanium intake 2.150 valves, less than 10 passes on valves. $300.00






105 3 web mirror block, block filled,ready to go 4.140 bore, sonic map, cross bolt mains with milodon studs, aligned bored, durabond coated cam bearings, all oil Galley mods, blocked lifter galleys for solid cam, grooved lifter bores. $700.00 plus shipping or I'll deliver up to 100 miles.









Vacuum pump $50.00






More stuff to be added. Picts and info available for everything by e mail if interested. E mail me. Leave contact # if you rather.
Thanks, Keith..

200
FE Technical Forum / Dry sump
« on: November 16, 2015, 03:33:44 PM »
Has anyone had any experience with Doves can-am oiling system ?

201
FE Technical Forum / Solid roller lifters
« on: November 14, 2015, 08:29:51 PM »
Which ones and why,?  for all out drag.

202
FE Technical Forum / Cam thrust plate.
« on: November 08, 2015, 11:36:25 PM »
Is it worth replacing this cam thrust plate with thrust rollers ?  (Spider cracks around bolt holes)  . Or just replace with one of the bronze  thrust plates ?

203
FE Technical Forum / Cam lobe damage
« on: November 08, 2015, 07:36:41 PM »
I think this roller cam is usable with a slight soft cleanup.  It's the only damage and the rest of the lobe looks perfect. What do you guys think ? Is it usable?  How would you go about cleaning it up ?

204
FE Technical Forum / Assembly lube
« on: November 06, 2015, 02:13:58 PM »
What assembly lube do you guys like to use ? The engine will likely set 6 or 8 weeks after assembly  before firing.  I have used a few different things including a assembly lube and the federal mogul/speed pro (green snot) is readily available on the shelf a few places near me so there wouldn't haveta be a wait on ordering anything as far as a specialty lube goes. Just curious What you guys may think ?

205
FE Technical Forum / C3AE A
« on: November 06, 2015, 01:45:30 AM »
This block is a 4.050 bore, cast for cross bolt support, I'm thinking it must have been some kind of industrial block because it hasn't been bored yet it has very thin and inconsistent cylinder walls. Some areas are as thin as the .110 range and it would take at least .030 to clean up even if 3 cylinders were not showing cracks. Not a desirable part, a shame really.  My question  is was it common for early blocks to only have #3 and #4 be the only two main bearing registers supported by the extra webbing ? The #2 main doesn't  have the extra Web. 

206
Member Projects / Garden block test mule
« on: November 04, 2015, 08:54:54 PM »
This is going to be my test mule build. My plans changed quite a bit once I acquired an aluminum pond block over the summer that needs some repairs. I won't be able to get started on that build till next summer so in the meantime I decided to build a test mule so I can get my car back out by spring and do some testing. Unfortunately I lost some pictures that I had not backed up on Google or photo bucket when I dropped my last phone down into a 13' deep manhole at work back in July  :-( .  Fortunately most of those pictures were of the block in its condition of being setting in the corner of my shop since 1985. They were pictures mostly of the cleaning process and alot of the prep as far as oil galley mods, tapping and plugging, tapping the freeze out plugs for screw ins, cutting and drilling the block for cross bolt caps, doing the water jacket cleaning and block fill and alot of the pre work before the final machining.  I had hoped to share some of these pictures but there lost and gone forever. It's mostly stuff you have all seen and done before though so nothing to extravagant.  I'll do my best to explain what I did and be it right or wrong or un ordinary it's the way I have been doing things in my little garage shop for years. I'm sure I'll get some feed back, hopefully some good and I'm sure there will be plenty of negative but this is a low buck build and using alot of existing parts that I have from other builds. I chose to go this route for now and invest my hard earned $ in parts for the pond block build once I start on that. As always I'm open to any "good" advice and hope to be helped to steer away from bad . Thanks guys..
 Keith.
CYLINDER BLOCK. All Block prep done in house by KB MAX.

   C6MEA Garden 428 A block. Seasoned 30 years in my dry shop. de- burred, cleaned, pressure
tested, cylinders sonic tested, cut and drilled for program engineering cross bolt main caps, caps cut for main stud full girdle, oil galleys enlarged to 1/2" from oil pump mounting surface to oil filter bypass adapter mounting surface, Oil galley from adapter mounting surface to center oil galley also enlarged to 1/2".  center oil galley enlarged to 7/16", all oil galley plugs tapped and threaded for screw in plugs. Lifter oil galleys completely blocked for use of a solid roller cam. Lifter valley de-burred and end drain back passages cleaned and smoothed, center drain back ports tapped and threaded for lifter valley vents. lifter bores grooved for drain down lubrication. freeze out plugs tapped and threaded for screw in freeze plugs, block drilled and
tapped at rear main for priority main oiling to rear cap. rear cap drilled and tapped for oil line, caps #2, #3, #4, drilled and tapped for oil line loop fittings, left side cross bolt cap bolts enlarged to 1/2" and drilled and tapped for external oil line fittings. Oil galley passages at main bearing registers chamfered and aligned to match bearings. Center thrust bearing cap chamfered at rear and drilled for rear thrust bearing flange oiling. Block cleaned again and water jackets cleaned and etched with metal rescue rust remover before adding "Hard-block" block filler tall fill to 1-1/2" from deck with mains torqued and a torque plate used on each deck. All gasket surfaces cleaned and surfaced. Block  de-burred inside and out. All bolt holes chased and cleaned with bottom tap thread cleaners.
 All above work done in house at KB max Racing.           
   
 The Following  Machine work done by 'Star Machine Works'  (Thanks Mark)

Block had one sleeve liner installed in #6 hole then align bored, cylinders finish bored and honed to 4.140" with torque plate and centered off of main's. Block Sq decked to 10.168 .

 The following final block prep before short block assembly done in house by KB max

Cylinders clearance chamfered for BIG valves, Block washed with industrial grade cleaner and scrub brushes, all oil galleys cleaned with brushes, block pressure washed and rinsed and washed again then air dried. Block mask off and painted with several thin coats of black industrial epoxy then a silver hammer tone mist applied over last wet coat of epoxy. Block dried under heat lamps for 48 hr then un mask and washed one final time then air dried and lubed with PB Blaster. ARP main studs installed along with pan studs. Pioneer head locating dowels installed along with ARP head studs.
 Short block .




207
FE Technical Forum / Adjustable Timing set.
« on: October 31, 2015, 05:41:12 PM »
  Barry, I see on your sight that you actually have your adjustable timing set listed for sale at $349. With a part number of #Survt1 ..is this true? Is it now available? 
I must have missed it if you mentioned here that they were now for sale. This would be great news. Also, alot of the things you have listed say they will ship in 3 or 4 days, I'll be making an order here soon for several things  and I'd like to know what's the best way to find out what you have in Stock or how long it maybe would take to get the parts. Should I call? Or possibly e mail a list of the parts ? Haven't  had much luck with e mailing you in the past, but I'm quite sure your a very busy man.. thanks for any kinda heads up, if you got what I need I'd rather get it from you than the big mail order giants. .

208
FE Technical Forum / head and main studs
« on: October 31, 2015, 12:04:18 PM »
maybe a dumb question but,
im curious about stud threads on the block side of the studs. the recommendations have changed a great deal over the years, through the 80's and a good portion of the 90's it was recommended to use lock tight on the block end. i have a old late 80's  instruction sheet from milodon main studs that say to use lock tight blue. things changed after that and now i have seen builders use everything from lock tight to oil to anti seize to nothing at all. i totally understand using some kind of lube or ARP assembly lube on the nut end but whats the best thing to do on the course block threads of studs ? not talking head bolts or main bolts but studs only. lots of the roundy round engine builders both asphalt and dirt around here still use lock tight on the block side. of-course i know when in doubt follow the stud manufactures instructions but im wondering what and why they have changed . 

209
Private Classifieds / SOLD FOR SALE, 2 C6 overhaul kits
« on: October 28, 2015, 12:00:30 PM »
SOLD

210
FE Technical Forum / Garden block choices
« on: October 23, 2015, 08:03:53 AM »
.

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