Finally time to get a set of monkey bars in my car. Been looking around for a 6-8pt kit in chromoly for 66-67 Fairlane. I have it narrowed down to these two.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rhc-13-1110-cm/make/ford/model/fairlane

https://swracecars.com/product/1966-1967-ford-fairlane-mercury-comet-8-point-roll-bar-cm/

Anyone have experience with either one? Will need to decide very shortly. TIA....

I finally have the rear end housing and leaf springs hung under the car and about to set up my new third member. I am about to bolt up the Caltrac bars and would like to know what some of you stick racers would recommend for a starting point. I have the double adjustable Caltrac brackets(two holes). Clutch is a somewhat aggressive unit, 28×9 bias slicks, and double adjustable shocks. Which hole would you recommend starting with and what kind of baseline for preload on the bars? TIA

https://youtu.be/e_Mwg01NlY8

Looking for a little clarification on a distributor cap. I am looking for a black large HEI style cap with brass terminals. I see conflicting pictures of the FAST #1000-1550 cap. I see one picture it is blue w/brass like the old Crane that it replaced, one is black w/aluminum, and one is black w/brass. Anybody know the actual color and terminal material of this cap?

If not, what is another brand for the large black HEI with brass terminals. Trying to keep a stockish look, so no MSD, because it looks like those have the logo on them. TIA

This build started out 3 years ago after I had a collapsed hydraulic lifter I was fighting. I just wanted to swap to a slightly larger solid flat tappet and run Drag Week '17. Well, one thing led to the next and the engine is out of the car and bare block. Glad I took it apart. Went to machine shop to have it cleaned up and found a crack on the #4 main. Rats. So, the original block and heads went into storage and gave me a good excuse to build it better. This is part 2 of the rebuild. Couple problems last year on first go around and decided to do it better this time.

This will be pic heavy, grab a beverage and get comfortable.

Basic run down of setup:

D4TE-1 block from a dump truck, dist. bushing from POP installed
2U crank from original 390
Scat 6.490" h beams with ARP 2000 bolts
Custom CP 4.085" flat tops, 8cc reliefs with metric 1.5, 1.5, 3.0mm rings (Napier second)
Custom 4140 cross-bolt main caps
Ishihara Johnson crank scraper
Canton screen windage tray
Schumann HV oil pump, POP billet drive, POP oil pump studs
Milodon 31130 oil pan and matching pickup
Solid roller cam, Crower hippo lifters (Not releasing cam specs)
Jay's timing set with Pioneer steel thrust plate
Blair's street pro port heads w/ 2.200, 1.650" valves, street exhaust port, 53cc chamber
Victor Reinz #3389 head gasket for 12.5:1 compression
Edelbrock RPM intake port matched and plenum mods
Erson rockers with upgraded DSC shafts and custom 7075 stands, ARP studs
Smith Bros. pushrods
NGK race plugs #7 heat range
Factory dist. with Pertronix Ignitor III, light advance springs, quicker curve, Crane steel gear
Scratch built 750 annular currently, probably switch to an 820 BG annular once in car
King main bearings, Federal Mogul rod bearings, Durabond FP-33 cam bearings
Factory 427 dual port oil filter adapter, modified
Pioneer SFI damper with billet aluminum crank spacer, oil slinger
C3AE timing cover
Ford Racing billet steel flywheel
PRW HV water pump, logo removed/ Robert Shaw high flow 160 t-stat
PBF covers going on in car, switching to Moroso Ultra 40 wires, Pertronix digital HP ignition box
Factory starter
Mad Dog 2" headers into some custom merge collectors

Speedmaster made pieces. Not sure if it's their usual quality or lack there of, but price is reasonable.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-FE-390-428-6-71-8-71-Blower-Satin-Intake-Manifold/143367502859?hash=item21615e7c0b:g:wOwAAOSwClxdZuas


Edit : Also available is a 2" blower spacer- https://www.ebay.com/itm/6-71-8-71-Blower-Manifold-2-Spacer-Studs-Chevy-SBC-BBC-Ford-SBF-BBF-Mopar/133155933693?hash=item1f00b64dfd:g:Pe0AAOSwB3ddaZk3

I thought I would start another thread showing some differences between a couple different cam bearings. I already had some 1445's and some FP-33's, but I picked up the ACL's to compare as well. I am not to surprised on the quality of the ACL's after seeing where they were made.  I don't have the King or Clevite's, but I suspect they are very similar to the 1445's. I'll let you decide:





First, the ACL. Note: NO oil groove to thrust/ cam sprocket.






The DuraBond:





The Sealed Power/FM:






The 1445 has a slighty wider/deeper oil groove to the thrust. The DuraBond has the nicest finish. The ACL I don't know what to say other than they will be getting shelved. The worst finish I have seen and every bearing has burrs around the oil holes that need to be addressed first. There are also some "chatter" marks on the ACL's from tooling that you can visually see, but not actually feel. I will be going with the FP-33.