I have a block that is virtually the same as this. Same casting numbers, similar wall thickness, external ribs, Pass. dist, no 428 in water jacket, '72ish 390 block. Dont know what it originally came out of, I pulled it from my brothers F150 4x4, but it was not the original block.

I have an off-topic small block 4 speed '65 falcon futura with the 4 piston Kelsey Hayes falcon/mustang front discs, I want to run vintage 14" ET five spokes on the front, does anyone know if they will fit? Not asking if aftermarket scarebird/toyota/brembo/wilwood are better, or if kelsey hayes stuff is obsolete, yadda, yaddda, yadda, asking if you have first hand experience with wheel fitment on these brakes.

I pmed/emailed three FE vendors some questions about FE heads a couple weeks ago. Two are mentioned on this thread. Barry was the only one who responded. Guess who Ill be buying my new heads from...

I think it would be handy to have a place to go for dyno results and build info. Barry had a cool thing going on his sight but it seems like it's been forgotten about. The fepower.net/ home page already has a "dyno results" tab. Maybe the format under that tab could be modified so all forum members could post their build info, dyno sheets and video links there? Or add a child board to the FE Technical Forum tab?

ET's seem like a less informative thing to me. Then again, I haven't made the transition to racing on pavement yet. Maybe soon though......

Its a lot harder to "cheat" your time slip than your dyno sheet.

Virtually every dial back light I have ever checked against my non dial back old school light shows an increasely retarded number as the rpm goes up, and the amount of retard is not consistant from light to light. Whatever floats your boat, but the way I check my mechanical advance is to use a non-dial back light and either a timing tape or degreed balancer.  Your mileage may vary...
The old non dial back Sears lights are excellent.

Quote from: cammerfe on September 15, 2012, 05:28:46 PM

Aside from rev-ability, one giant reason to use aluminium rods is that they provide a degree of cushioning effect for engines running either spray or some sort of supercharger---or both.

There are both benefits and drawbacks to the use of aluminium rods. Ignoring the snarky-ness to be found in the above answer, the idea of examining the goals of a proposed build and setting your hardware details to match is an excellent idea. JMO

KS

Bingo. And I have used BME rods in a big hp(800ish) N/A brand X "street" motor in the past, was VERY happy with them. Worked well, and the cap fretting went away. Yes, I know its an old thread, but binderedonedat and it worked very well.

Ill add this thought as well. The deep skirt and cross-bolted mains might negate some of the need for this in a big hp N/A FE, as its a lot more rigid than those orange motors. I have seen cap fretting at 650 hp in two bolt main BBC 4 bolt a Little higher power level. Once they start bouncing around enoug that the cap register starts to loosen up, bad things happen...

I agree, the most useful FE book I have read. I owe you a debt of gratitude for publishing that book. Jim Van Cleve told me about the Streetmaster back about 1974, I would tell guys and often be greeted with hoots of laughter. Vindication rules...