Hi Jack I am wondering if this block is a car block or is it by chance a marine block? Whats all included with the block? All crank bolts, spacers, oil relief parts? What all can you tell me about the block? I have a friend that has a 67 Fairlane and he could use a number matching block, if this is the right one. I will pass this information on to him once I hear from you. Thanks for your time.
Just to let you know that we did cancelled our hotel. It seems to me this is a long ways from Menomonee Falls Wi. to go and watch it rain. Hopefully this is a blessing for the other racers that now it wont rain. Any way say hi to Trish from me and Mary and we will see you two next year since drag week is not around by us this year. If you go good luck and all be safe. Later
Tomorrow traveling from Grand Canyon to Las Vegas with truck and toy hauler (Harley) and staying two nights. Looking for thoughts on car museums and RV parks to stay at. RV park close to the strip would be good. Not a gambler but would like to see a few shows and the night lights. Thanks in advance. See you all at Beaver Springs.
Crazy thought Ross What if a guy would harblock the block up to the water pump holes without the heads(torque plate) on and then will the clearances stay there once you put the heads back on? On the other hand when a guy harblocks a block does he do it with the torque plate in place? If so, what happens when you remove the torque plate? If every thing stays the same after it is harblock then would a guy need to retorque plate the block to bore it again with the harblock already installed? In your pickup it would not run nearly as hot as in a mustang because of the room under the hood. If a guy wanted to get crazy could you kneer just the couple of the loose pistons? I am just trying to learn and sorry if this is off base.
Make a spacer 1/8-3/16-1/4 (alum) or what ever and goop it and pin it to the block and then goop the manifold. You can use the same spacer for both manifolds if you do some measuring? Save on the goop and good luck.
Thanks Doug It was great seeing you and your wife again and thanks for posting all the pics through out the drag week. Thanks for posting pics. of my car also. Also maybe at Beaver Springs this year we can get pics. of our cars side by side and maybe going down the track together? Take care.
Hi Doug Hope you win that GV and hope Trish had a great and many more birthdays. It was great as always seeing you and Trish. Hopefully we will see you two at Beaver Springs if I can borrow, beg or steel an enclosed car trailer so I can bring the car. Then we can park the twins next to each other? Because of the fog it was nice of both of you to take a minute to look at my car. It was also great to meet Alan from the forum with his Galaxie. Great job to both of you. Also thanks for posting pic. of the car and no I dont mine at all. See you in April.
Thanks Heo for the thought but I did switch tire this spring to M/t street radials noise still there. Could it be a axle bearing? They are Williams axles in there. About 8 years old but only maybe 2000 miles on them. Well maybe this winter I will pull the 9 inch. apart and see whats up with it. Something to do. In Wi. the winters can be long.
389 gear,locker. It seems after I drive the car for 8-10 miles the rear end starts to whine on acceleration and not on deacceleration. Last time checked, the pattern and lash was good. Any thoughts? It seems like something is growing with the heat. Bearings,lash? Thanks for your suggestions.
Just install the 9 inch. back in car and it has a slight whine to it. What are some thought on pulling the pinion assem. ahead about 1/2 inch to change the shim. Most likely would try .003 more and test and then .003 less and then test. I am thinking of cutting shim in half to install it. Once the back lash is set it will not change by moving the pinion in and out a bet. So there should not be a oil leak because of the o-ring that is there. All the bearings are new and the preloads and back lash are correct. Will it work? Thanks in advance.