I spent the morning at a dyno session on a 390 FE with my ported Edelbrock RPM heads, my ported Offenhauser Port O Sonic intake manifold, and a relatively low compression build.  Parts were from 1986, (Forged Seal Power pistons, 5/16" rings, etc.) and solid flat tappet camshaft for street duty.  Compression worked out to 9.8:1, and dynamic was 8.05.  Carb was a 750, but still had 2.1" vacuum at top of pull.  Tried timing down where most aluminum heads like it~36*, made more power at 38*, increased to 40*, and it made more power still.  Dropped timing back, and lost power, so went back to 40* and it repeated highest power pulls.  First for me.  Anyone else had a similar timing requirement with your RPM heads?  Camshaft was degreed, advanced, etc., damper correctly marked.  Joe-JDC 

Any of you have access to parts catalog for retainers and keepers for valve springs.  I have searched the internet until I am going blind, but cannot find a titanium retainer for a PAC-1204X spring for 7* locks and 11/32 valve stems.  1.290" OD, .950" ID, .950" inner spring OD, .690" ID.  This is for a standard 11/32 stem with old school style groove for 7* locks.    I will buy retainer and locks(7*, super 7, etc.), to match if there is a part number available.  I really don't want to have to install 8mm guides and valves to get these springs to work if possible.  Going on one of my Y block builds with .696" solid lifter camshaft.    Joe-JDC

As many of you know, I have been porting since 1972, and specializing in Ford products, but branched out to anything needed, even tractor heads,  even four cylinder, six cylinder, and SOHC/DOHC late model heads, etc.  I thought I had ported every Ford cast aluminum intake that has a Ford part number on them, until last month.  I now have had two C6AE-9425-K "Sidewinder" intakes to flow and work on.  I had never seen one of these, and I have ported a lot of -"J" Sidewinders over the years.  These two "K" intakes average 338-339 cfm as cast.  That is better than the "J" intake by at least 30 cfm, and 40 or more better than the -F.  Better than a Performer RPM as cast, and better than the BT as cast.  How many of you actually have one of these?  Supposedly came on a few real 427 Fairlanes, and 427 Cobras, but I have not verified that at this point.   I would be interested in buying one if I could find one reasonably priced to add to my collection.  Joe-JDC

Finally getting around to another project engine I bought several years ago from a supposed reputable builder that has name recognition and a huge business dealing with FE's.  I bought a numbers matching '69 428 CJ that was bored +.015", and supposed to be ready to dyno test.  Since I had some time on my hands, I decided to break down the heads and check to see if there was any work done in the bowl area, and guides, etc., thinking that I may go ahead and port the heads and intake manifold for this project vehicle.  What I found are three cracks in the intake valve seats in one head, no valve job on some of the exhaust seats, and no guide work, umbrella seals, and one port was so rotten from water damage that I am afraid the rust has eaten all the way through to the water passages.  This engine was supposedly ready to put oil in, and start up.  My question is can the intake seats be salvaged where the cracks are located, or will I need to have intake seats installed?  The exhaust seats are hardened, but no valve job.  I am reluctant to install both intake and exhaust valve seats in the same head with all the seats replaced.  Has anyone had good results with fixing this kind of a problem, and if so, what was the fix?  Joe-JDC

Stock 9d block, 9c heads and 9c iron intake.
Old +.030 with quick hone and new rings
Stock rods, crankshaft, new bearings
No porting on heads and intake, stock
Fresh valve job but re-used everything, springs, valves, retainers, etc. but new seals.
HFT stock replacement camshaft with stock pushrods, non-adjustable rocker arms.
60 psi oil pressure, stock pan with windage tray.

Dyno headers, 750 VS dyno carb, stock ford points distributor.

Ran the engine at 2000 rpm to seat the rings, put 200 lb/ft torque on engine for several minutes and varied to 3000 rpm to make sure everything was seating in properly, set timing at 37* and made a short pull.  Everything looked good, so it was let cool down and heat soak.

Made another pull from 3000-6000, and checked it over, no leaks, no smoke, and it sounded just like a stockish 428 CJ should.

Set timing to 38* and made a second pull, and power came up, and torque was up a couple, so it was deemed ready for customer.

PS, got the dyno sheets reversed.  Sorry.  Joe-JDC

I am in the process of cleaning two blocks for doing a half-fill or to the bottom of the water pump holes, and just wondering if you use a water additive, or just plain water to mix the grout.  Also, for those of you who have done this in the past, does the grout actually keep water from seeping around the cylinders and rusting them?  I am planning to use Moroso Hardblock.  They say that you can actually do a fill without having to re-hone the cylinders, too.  True or false?  Joe-JDC

It was 80* here in San Antonio, yesterday, and tonight it is snowing.  My grass is yard needs going over with the lawn mower, and cherry trees are already in bloom, and it is snowing in south Texas!  Joe-JDC

It appears that Engine Masters Challenge is not going to be picked up by Motor Trend Group next year.   Hate to see that, but the last couple of years have had some issues with rules and communication.  Race Engine Challenge may pick up some participants if they are a go for the next year.  Joe-JDC