When in doubt contact the experts right?  Some background info:  Car is a 1968 Mustang with a 427 Genesis originally a C code no power anything.  Now it has 1970 Torino Cobra front discs and 1974 Mercury Montego rear drums ( 10 X 2 1/2") all manual.  The master cylinder is from a 1974 Mustang 2 with a 15/16 bore, manual disc brake.  Best I remember is that the rear drum wheel cylinders are 1 1/8" bore.  Just installed a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve also.  The master has a spongy feel so I need to replace it.  Been told that for the best stopping power the master needs to be the smallest bore possible and the wheel cylinders need to have the largest bore possible.  What would be the best master cylinder to use in this application?

Wife always asks after any kind of work on the Mustang if I bled on it.  If not she says I'll have to do the procedure again until I do because it won't run right.  Damn if she isn't right most of the time.

I would think as long as everything is indicated in then it in theory it should be zero balance.  We used to take 1" wall tubing X 16" long and after turning the OD, indicate it in to .002 and bore the ID.  Ended up zero balance every time.

I don't have many miles or time on these gaskets to make a decision about quality or reuse.  Did notice the the Cometic intake gaskets protruded about 1/8" or so above the mating surface of the heads and intake joint.  Went to trim the excess and found they are sandwiched with metal so had to use a zip grinder to remove them.  Other brands have this protrusion also but they are just normal gasket material.  It would not surprise me to find that the VC gaskets are metal impregnated also giving them the extra strength.

Small but time and muscle saving tip.  Before removing the flywheel take a paint or magic marker and draw a line between the bolts to the pilot bushing.  When the marks line up on reassembly you are good to go.

Brent,  Holley / MSD lists one under the 289 / 302 listing that fits 360 and 390.  .468 ID.  Part # 85833.

I have the Genesis block also.  Using the Fel-Pro 1020's I cut a slot in the gasket from the oil feed hole in the block to the feed hole in the Edelbrocks.  Oiled just fine through the slot to the rockers.  The paperwork I got with the short block specifically stated that this needed to be done.

Got the head off the engine yesterday.  Now I'm stumped as to cause of the problem.  There are no witness marks on the piston or valve, valve is not bent and the guide is still tight.  Told you wrong on last post - it is #5 intake instead of exhaust.  Because of the markings on the underside of the rocker there has to be some movement of the valve or rocker shaft just on this one valve.  I am using Precision Oil Pumps thick wall shaft, his gen 2 rockers and rocker shaft studs (probably ARP).  When I installed the solid roller (.645 gross lift) I changed springs to the recommended ones from Comp.  I did not change the retainers if that has anything to do with it.  The engine has seen several twilight zone twists but not over 6500.  The heads are Keith Craft Stage 2 Edelbrocks so I know they were quality built.  Sort of wish I had found something amiss that could be easily corrected.  Any ideas would be greatly appreciated but if not I guess I will button it up and go on down the road.