Yes Blykins, thank you for the reply, but the aluminum ones (designed for the Low and Medium Riser and Tunnel port) are cut down for use on the High Riser and makes them much weaker. The support area on the bottom is probably more than 1/2 way cut down. That's why I was suggesting someone make a steel version for the High Riser.
But I take it you are saying that the aluminum ones even cut down add a lot of support. It just doesn't look like a lot of material would be left for support.
I am running a .600 solid flat tappet cam with no crazy spring pressures and I have already broken the end rocker off in 500 miles. Just looking for a simple solution. Other than cam motor is stock.
Rory428, end support stands.
Thanks again.

Since you say the motor is stock except for the cam, I would venture to say stock rocker shafts are not up to handling a .600 lift solid flat tappet camshaft.
I ran a 454 inch Hi Riser for quite a few years in my Mustang. Street and track raced it as well as put a lot of street miles on it too. It also had a .600 lift cam.
I ran Ford Power Parts rocker shafts, stock Ford rocker arms, double rocker shaft springs, stock Ford stands, and Ford Power Parts rocker studs. I had Isky 8005A valve springs set up at 135lbs. on the seat. I bought Dove roller rocker arms and their end support system and resolved myself to thinking if I ever have a problem with what I have, I'll replace my rockers and stands to the "good stuff".
I never did because I never had a problem.

The Dove Hi Riser end support, if you can find one, is a good set up. It will not damage your engine to pull a couple of head bolts and install it.
I can't honestly say I drove my 12:1 Hi Riser 500 miles though.

Tough crowd!
I use all of that lingo and more. And will continue until my last breath.
I like my full race bumpstick!

Peace-out!

Carbies, Cali, Eddy heads, and "I seen" are what make my skin crawl.

This site is literally slower than dial-up

I come here daily just to see if anything new is happening, but only go to the home page to check, and rarely check in.

FE.com is still my home not only because it's faster, but that is a major factor.

I was on the phone with Chris Whitney from Robert Pond Motorsports yesterday and he recommended Barrington Machine in Santa Clarita.

I ran a Hampton 8-71 blower on a 452 inch FE motor for about 10 years on my Mustang. It was ridiculously fun!

They are very violent and hit quite hard when you "put it to the wood!"

Couple of things. If your blower has a nostalgia type 1/2" pitch drive, I started with a 35 tooth pulley on the bottom and a 40 on top. Then sneak up on the boost. At 1:1, or 35 teeth top and bottom, my motor made 12-13 pounds of boost. Autometer makes a tattle-tale device that you install with your boost gauge to let you know highest boost achieved. Get one.

If you have shiny ceramic coated headers on your car they will turn a dull gray soon after first start-up.

As far as camshafts go my experience is that blown motors don't care much. If you're going to get a "blower cam" with really wide lobe separation and 8-10 more exhaust duration, get a regrind from Ken at Oregon Cams. He's a good guy. I had a big (.640 lift) and a small (.575 lift) cam and couldn't tell the difference.

Use a steel crank. I ran an iron 1UB 428 crank for a few years. Broke it right behind the first main journal.

Use 2 big carburetors and have Faron, a member here with a roots blown Mustang, set them up with boost referenced power valves. Really, do it! I ran 2 Holley 950HP's. The blower won't care how big...just if they're too small. I would not go smaller than 2 750DP's. Go for Dominators!

Roots blown motors love advanced timing, lots of it, until they don't. Use some kind of computer controlled timing device that pulls timing out buy either RPM or boost level. I always ran 100LL AVgas in mine but did eventually put a Snow water/meth system on.

No room for the ignition distributor, I used an Electromotive crank trigger waisted spark deal. It's still working fine.

Lots of other small stuff you'll figure out. Like that huffer is REALLY HEAVY! Think you're going to bend over the fender and lift an 8-71 off the motor by yourself...you're dream'n! 

Have fun!

Covid 19 and its effects have certainly rocked the economy with supply chain challenges and worker shortages.

The government giving money to encourage workers to stay home has added its own problems as well as spiking inflation.

But the real problem I see is that there is nobody coming in behind us old timers that want to do manual work at any wage. This has been going on many years before the covi-flu crisis was even thought of.
Case in point. I was an automotive tech for 40 years. Had my own shop for 21 years.
In the 21 years I had a shop, not even 1 time did I have a young individual come in the shop looking for work. You know, like the old days when a high school grad (or even a drop-out) would come by and ask for work and start by sweeping and cleaning. Then upgrade to oil changes and brake work, eventually, with school, be a journeyman tech making a living wage.

I will admit that getting greasy, busted knuckles, cut, burned, is not fun.
But who is going to do the work in our future?

Out of curiosity, are there any octane boosters that actually work?  Something you could carry with you to throw in the tank if you were running on the edge with 94 octane and you were out of town and couldn't get "good gas?"

I have had very good performance with VP's Octanium octane booster
I see many good reviews about the Race Gas product.
Lots of folks swear by the Torco octane booster and have for years.
Might want to look into a water/meth system if you're running 12:1 on the street. I had a Snow system on my blown car and liked it very much.

I quit installing sound systems in my hot rods long ago. The cars are too loud and I'd rather listen to the motor anyway.

In my "regular" cars, most any classic rock will do.

When Judas Priest comes on...I drive WAY tooo FAST!