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Messages - blykins

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4801
FE Technical Forum / Re: A few old school builds....
« on: October 08, 2013, 02:13:03 PM »
Rory,

I've used quite a few RPM cranks.  Nothing wrong with the composition of them, they just often need some machine work to be perfect.   Last two RPM cranks that I bought for an FE were 4.375" and 3.980" stroke cranks.  Both of them needed turned .010"/.010", but I would trust them.  Just made 580 hp with one in a 482 inch engine....

I've heard of lots of Eagle cranks breaking....but I personally have not heard of any Scat or RPM cranks going south.

4802
FE Technical Forum / Re: A few old school builds....
« on: October 08, 2013, 01:23:27 PM »
Anyone care to guess what it will pull?  It's a '66 model, out of an F-100 if I understand correctly.  Haven't got it in hand yet, but it will get thrashed once I do.

4803
FE Technical Forum / Re: A few old school builds....
« on: October 08, 2013, 08:46:50 AM »
I think so too.   Never built a 352, and certainly not with a big fatty solid roller cam.  :)  This one is going to serve several purposes and should be a lot of fun. 

4804
FE Technical Forum / A few old school builds....
« on: October 08, 2013, 07:41:55 AM »
Duplicate post from the other forum, but I didn't know how many people were just members here.

It's interesting to see some of the trends that come and go with customer builds.  It's almost like fashion....bell bottoms were in, out (thank goodness), back in again, back out, etc.  I see the same trends with engine builds....guys want big inch stroker builds, then the old factory stuff comes back in style. 

I enjoy the swing, sometimes doing the same build over and over gets boring and after 4-5 482-500 inch all aluminum engines in a row, a few old school builds are welcomed.

Here is a 427 S/O LR build that I did for Matt Moore, a forum member in the UK.  I think I posted the dyno results a while back, but I didn't post any pictures that I can remember.

This was an NOS 427 block, and we used a 391 crank that Adney cut for me.  The heads were ported C3 LR heads, and the LR 2x4 intake was modified as well.  Oliver 6.800" rods, Race-Tec pistons with .043/.043/3mm rings, and a Bullet solid flat tappet cam 255/263 @ .050", .640/.640" lift, 106 LSA on a 102 ICL.  Compression ratio was a little over 11:1.  The carbs were custom built by my carb guy, a pair of 600 cfm Holleys.  Even running factory adjustable rockers and a dual points distributor.  <img src="/images/happy.gif" height="14" width="14" alt="happy.gif">

This one made 510 hp @ 6000 and carried it all the way to 6500, only losing 5-6 hp there.  Torque was 511 lb-ft @ 4200.  The Stuska dyno that I use is a little on the conservative side and compared to other DTS and Superflow dynos, we usually see about 5% difference on peak hp results.












I'm currently working on four other old school pieces. 

1.  If you're ever around the Columbus, OH area, I would suggest stopping by Boss Cars in Gahanna.  It's pure pleasure for any Mustang fan.  Boss 302's, Boss 429's, GT350's, GT500's, you name it.  A forum member, Grant Hukle, is having them restore a GT500, and I ran up there to pick up his 428CJ to build.  It will be showroom-correct on the outside (down to the 78lb intake manifold), but is getting treated to a hydraulic roller and some other updated parts inside.

Just ordered some Ferrea valves for the heads and I will post some flow numbers on the heads with an updated valve job.  Will be dyno'ing the finished engine as well, so it will be cool to see some 428CJ numbers.

2.  Rick Bagley isn't a member here, but is a member on some of the Cobra forums.  He lives here in KY, about 35 minutes from me and has a 427 that I'm rebuilding for him.  He had a leaky intake gasket and while he was in the motor updating things, found out that he had a broken ring that was scuffing the cylinder walls pretty badly.  He took this time to completely freshen the engine up, with a new solid flat tappet cam from Bullet (240/245 @ .050", .620" lift, 108 LSA), new Diamond pistons, and new Scat rods. 





It will get prettier, I promise.

The top end is a set of Edelbrock heads and a Blue Thunder intake. 

3.  Next up is a new/old build for forum member Gary Veres.  Gary has a set of Tunnel Port heads that hit a pretty good lick....about 345 @ .600".  They're going on a new Pond cast iron block, 4.310" x 3.980" using a new forged RPM crank with BBC rod journals.  Running Lunati H-beam 6.800" rods, custom Diamond pistons, a custom Total Seal .043/.043/3mm ring package, a Bullet solid flat tappet cam, and a TP 2x4 intake with a set of our Quick Fuel 2x4 725cfm carbs.  We're going with some more modernized pieces on the top end....T&D rockers, MSD distributor, etc. 

I think I'm looking forward to this build the most...



4.  Lastly is an old 352 that I'm doing for myself.  I bought a complete running core from James Hunter, a forum member in WV.  Believe it or not, I'm going to dyno this puppy as it sits with all the factory parts on it.  Past that, I'm going to keep a tight lip....I've got some big plans for it using the factory stroke, C6AE-R heads, and some other goodies. 





Brent Lykins
B2 Motorsports, LLC




4805
FE Technical Forum / Re: Torque and Clearance Specs.
« on: October 08, 2013, 03:58:50 AM »
So if a hydraulic cam will spin to 6000 rpm , power wise its done by 5500 ish most likely so set the limiter a couple hundred higher and be safe ?

That's about where I generally aim for a hydraulic roller in an FE...5500 peak.  I've had a couple of them peak at 6000-6100, but that was with the standard issue lazy lobe cam, Morel lifters, etc.  In my experiences, the lazier lobes from Comp (High Energy, etc.) will make about 20-25 more hp than the more aggressive lobes, such as the Xtreme Energy, XFI, etc., when  you start pulling to the higher rpm ranges.

Barry's going to 7100-7200 with his hydraulic roller EMC engine, but it takes a lot of specialized parts. 


4806
FE Technical Forum / Re: Torque and Clearance Specs.
« on: October 07, 2013, 07:21:12 PM »
How many times have you had that happen Jay?  That would get under my skin real quick....

4807
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: Explosion on 54
« on: October 07, 2013, 09:10:06 AM »
I'm about done with it myself.  I really had trouble swallowing Dave's posts.  Just didn't make sense to me. 

I've often wondered why most of the forums have so much bickering back and forth.  I don't know if it's due to the fact that everyone wants to look smart in front of everyone else, or maybe it's just a matter of not being able to understand the inflection behind words, like we would when talking to someone face to face.  I think sites like Yellowbullet have a lot of young kids on there who have to prove themselves, but that kind of reaction from the forums with "mature" users just blows my mind.


4808
FE Technical Forum / Re: Torque and Clearance Specs.
« on: October 05, 2013, 08:43:14 PM »
Aim for the high side of those specs and you'll be fine.  My stockish stuff gets .0025" rods and .0025-.003 mains.

Manuals like that show what can happen when you stack tolerances....you wouldn't want .0008" bearing clearances.  :-)

4809
FE Technical Forum / Re: Torque and Clearance Specs.
« on: October 05, 2013, 02:53:15 PM »
What Ross is saying is that the stock guides are usually a lot taller than they would be if we put in new guides or if we had them machined down for clearance.  Doesn't really matter if they've been replaced or not, as long as you have sufficient retainer to guide/valve seal clearance.  If you have a set of checking springs, it's easiest to use them to see what everything looks like as you roll the engine over.  If not, you can sometimes get lucky and peer through the coils on the springs and see what it looks like.

Curious, what does the factory manual say to put the clearances at?

4810
Sorry, the QFT 950 and the Holley HP Ultra 950. 

4811
The new Holley Ultra HP 950's are true 950's, but the venturis are much, much larger than a comparable Q-950 Quick Fuel, which can cause issues with smaller engines and street driving.  I did a back to back test with a 445ci Windsor and the Q-950 QFT was good for 11 more horsepower.

4812
FE Technical Forum / Re: Best aftermarket block and rotating assembly
« on: September 29, 2013, 02:01:42 PM »
My vote would be the Pond block.  I'm doing a TP build right now with a Pond cast iron block and Gary Vere's TP heads, and have done 4 other Pond block builds in the past 2 months. 

I use a lot of the Pond stuff....mainly aluminum, but the cast iron blocks are super sweet as well and will hold tons of horsepower.   I posted a pic of the cast iron block over on the other forum...just had Robert deliver me one last week.   The cast iron blocks and the aluminum blocks (Pond) are both the same price.  Both come with main and head studs and a set of cam bearings.

A Scat crank and rods would be my weapons of choice.  A cast crank will hold up to that horsepower, but Scat has the forged pieces out as well if you want some insurance.   I predominantly use the Scat pieces and have seen nothing but good quality out of them.

I've used one Dove block, and it was a "vintage" one.  It was very rough on the outside, but machined up well. 

4813
FE Technical Forum / Re: T @ D rocker arm kit / street
« on: September 25, 2013, 09:06:15 AM »
In most cases the T&D pushrods will be cheaper.  I block the feed in the head and oil through the pushrods, so you can just snag any high quality oiling pushrod in 5/16 or 3/8.  Can cut your pushrod bill in half, considering there are lots of off-the-shelf choices with the more common ball/ball oiling stuff.

4814
FE Technical Forum / Re: T @ D rocker arm kit / street
« on: September 24, 2013, 08:09:52 AM »
I see the one machined bolt.....these are pressure fed like stock....not fed through hollow pushrods.......Cory

They will feed either way.   

4815
FE Technical Forum / Re: Has anybody done a 2x4 EFI?
« on: September 19, 2013, 06:40:57 AM »
Yes, you can use the extra throttle body for the EZ system.

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