Performance Summary:
      Cubic Inches:   511            Dyno brand:  Stuska
      Power Adder:               Where dynoed:   Dale Meers Racing Engines
      Peak Horsepower:  723 @ 7000
      Peak Torque:  657 @ 4500

Horsepower and Torque Curves:


Engine Specifications:
   Block brand, material, finished bore size, other notes:  Pond cast iron, 4.375"
     
   Crankshaft brand, cast or forged, stroke, journal size:  Scat steel, 4.250" stroke, 2.200" rod journal
     
   Connecting Rods brand, material, center to center distance, end sizes, bolts:  Lunati H-beam, 6.800", ARP 2000

   Piston brand, material (caster, hypereutectic or forged), dish/dome volume, static CR:  Racetec, 2618, coated, 11.8:1

   Main Bearings, Rod Bearings, Cam Bearings brand and size:  Federal Mogul, Federal Mogul, Durabond HP

   Piston rings brand, size, other notes:  Total Seal, .043/.043/3mm, low tension for vac pump

   Oil Pump, pickup, and drive:  Melling HV, Moroso pickup, ARP drive

   Oil pan, windage tray, oil filter adapter:  Moroso road race T-sump, no tray, POP billet adapter

   Camshaft brand, type (hyd/solid, flat tappet or roller), lift and duration (adv and @.050"):  Custom Comp Cams solid flat tappet, nitrided, 270/280 @ .050", 108 LSA, 108 ICL, .650/.650 gross lift

   Lifters brand, type:  Crower Coolface SBF EDM

   Timing chain and timing cover:  Ford Racing/factory

   Cylinder heads brand, material, port and chamber information:  Custom ported Ford Tunnel Port

   Cylinder head flow in cfm at inches of lift (28" H2O pressure drop):
      Intake               Exhaust
      .100               .100
      .200               .200
      .300               .300
      .400               .400
      .500               .500
      .600               .600
      .700               .700
      .800               .800

   Flow bench used, location:

   Intake valve brand, head size, stem size:  Ferrea hollow stem, 2.250"

   Exhaust valve brand, head size, stem size:  Ferrea 1.76
   
   Valve springs brand, part number, specs:  PAC 1255X, beehive

   Retainers and locks brand, part number, specs:  PAC titanium

   Rocker arm brand, type (adjustable or non-adj), material, ratio:  T&D street

   Rocker shafts and stands, brand, material:

   Pushrods brand, type, length:  Custom Trend, 5/16" .105" wall

   Valve covers, brand, type:  Holman Moody

   Distributor brand, advance curve information:  MSD, all in by 2500
 
   Harmonic balancer brand:  Powerbond SS

   Water pump brand, type (mechanical or electric):  CSR

   Intake manifold brand, material, porting information:  Factory Tunnel Port

   Carburetor(s) brand, type:  (2) QFT 725cfm carbs

   Exhaust manifolds or headers brand, type:  Dyno headers, 2" tube

Aftermarket block or factory block?  What kind of racing?

I've used a little of everything.  The FM bearings are nice and will drop right in.  If you have an aftermarket block that uses a Cleveland bearing, and you use something like a Clevite, ACL, or King, you will most likely have to cut the thrust bearing flange down. 

I use a lot of FM bearings, but I also build engines where I use coated bearings and usually reach for the Clevite HK series stuff.

Yep, ridiculously high.  Need to find someone else, or take Barry or myself up on using a broker.

You probably won't notice much difference.  If the current valves are in good shape, I wouldn't bother.  If you need to replace the valves and need a valve job anyway, probably wouldn't hurt anything.

What will help the driveability and the health of the motor the most would be to get a thinner gasket or have the decks cut.  Having over .060" of quench distance is not conducive to a happy engine.

Not sure about that one.  I normally remove the factory plugs and replace them with ones I buy from McMaster Carr.  They have a thread locking compound on them. 

I've mentioned this here before, but I've had great luck with the bolt kits from www.alloyboltz.com.  They are stainless, are around $45-50 for a kit, and come with about everything. 

They come with a flat washer, but I'll put a lock washer under them as well. 

I do know that red tastes better than blue....

Most of my junk idles at around 20-25 hot and hits around 70 psi at full song.  I use mostly HV pumps but a HV pump does rob horsepower, so in some applications they are not warranted.

An engine is just a combination of controlled internal oil leaks.  If you have control over the bearing clearances, lifter clearance, oil to the top end, oil drainback, and a good quality pan, you can get away with a lot less. 

I've built drag race motors that have 55 psi crossing the stripe at 7500....oil pressure was measured at the rear of the engine, so I would imagine at the front near the pump, the engine is seeing around 65 or so.  On a freshen up, all the bearings looked excellent.