Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.


Messages - blykins

Pages: 1 ... 293 294 [295] 296 297 298
4411
FE Technical Forum / Re: Mapped out a solid cam while degreeing today
« on: November 30, 2013, 02:52:06 PM »
You can make them go, but it takes a good bit of effort and specialized parts....even more so with a hydraulic roller. 

4412
FE Technical Forum / Re: T @ D rocker arm kit / street
« on: November 29, 2013, 02:26:28 PM »
Same here.  Was able to see where the breaking point was last week though.  Pulled an insert out of a head with 625 lbs over the nose running T&D streets.  Not a fun sound at 6800....

4413
FE Technical Forum / Re: Rod ratio -stroker cranks
« on: November 27, 2013, 07:31:04 PM »
I was speaking in generality, didn't take time to add it up.  It would come down to how much you charge for your stuff and how much I charge for my stuff.  I get a decent break on rpm cranks so even with machine work that they need, I coukd still sell cheaper than what the forged Scats cost.  As for diamond, MWD here, and a change to compression height, volume, etc is just around $40.  Rods are the same price, rings & bearings the same.

You're not really disagreeing with me, nor am I with you, but I don't think the difference is all that big.

4414
FE Technical Forum / Re: Rod ratio -stroker cranks
« on: November 27, 2013, 03:28:54 PM »
You'd be surprised on how many aftermarket pistons have that feature.  Small block stuff, all the way up to 4.300" and 4.500" stroke BBF stuff.  I've never had any issue with a piston being set up that way, knock on aluminum.  Was talking to one of the writers of Modified Mustangs & Fords the other day, and he has a 347 SBF with way over 100k on the clock that doesn't use any oil. 

It all depends on what other components you go with on how big the price differential is.  If you use premium parts and compare apples to apples, the price on going bigger isn't all that bad.  If you go with Probe/Icon/Race-Tec pistons, a cast 4.250" Scat crank, and I-beam rods, the price of a 4.375" rotating assembly is going to be a good bit higher.  However, if you go with a premium 4.250" setup, with Diamond pistons, a forged Scat crank, etc, etc., then the price isn't going to be much different at all, and you may end up with a cheaper setup overall. 

Figure out which route you're going to go, do some shopping, and then you can make a more educated decision. 

4415
FE Technical Forum / Re: Freeze Plug preference - steel or brass
« on: November 27, 2013, 03:24:36 PM »
I use both, mainly brass.  I've never had any problems with freeze plugs.....with the exception of the time I went to drive a set in a 351C block.  I knocked 2 in on one side, smeared a little hooey-gooey around the outside of the third and proceeded to set it in the hole.  It fell right in. 

Not sure what was going on with that  block, but the one hole got a metric freeze plug....

4416
FE Technical Forum / Re: Rod ratio -stroker cranks
« on: November 27, 2013, 07:58:58 AM »
It's easy to figure out, just divide the rod length by the stroke. 

6.700/4.250 = 1.58
6.700/4.375 = 1.53

You're not going to notice any difference between the two.  Rod/stroke ratio is a subject where you'll get 1000 opinions and none of them will be right....LOL

You will find a guy with dyno results showing that a certain rod works better with a certain head, then you'll find another guy that has tried the exact same combo and showed that another rod works better.  Each engine is different.

If it were a race motor, I'd pick the shortest, lightest piston that was feasible, then find something to connect the piston to the crank. 

For a street engine, I wouldn't really put any effort in worrying about rod/stroke ratios.  With the 4.375" crank, you're not going to be able to play too much with rod lengths because the piston will get pretty short, and it will already require support rails with a 6.700" rod.  With the 4.250" crank, you can play with a 6.800" rod, but it's hard to find pistons readily available with that compression height.




4417
FE Technical Forum / Re: Educate Me on Roller Cams and the FE
« on: November 20, 2013, 06:44:28 PM »
Yep, and I wasn't trying to be a smarty pants, but you don't know how many of us would kill for an extra 20 hp on the dyno.  It helps us to learn and it makes customers happy. 

I have personally never had a hydraulic roller lifter failure.  I had one lifter out of a set that refused to pump up, but that's pretty benign.  I don't think I've ever heard of a hydraulic roller lifter failing, and with the sheer ginormous amounts of hydraulic roller lifters out in the OEM world, that's a pretty big task.  Think of all the 5.0 Mustangs with hydraulic roller lifters....all LS engines, all LS6-LS7 engines that turn 7000 with hydraulic rollers.  A lifter failure doesn't even cross my mind with these. 

To me, the only downside with a hydraulic roller is the initial investment.  You can play that a couple different ways....if you're upgrading or starting from scratch.  If you have a mild build where you can use mild springs and factory non-adjustables, or if you're trying to do a little more with the build....etc, etc.  But if you factor in the cost of a botched break-in, it's pretty much a non-issue.

4418
FE Technical Forum / Re: Educate Me on Roller Cams and the FE
« on: November 19, 2013, 08:02:06 PM »
I would not have any qualms about hydraulic roller lifters at all.  Lifter failures are attributed to solid roller applications, with lash and high spring pressures.  The only difference between an fe hydraulic roller lifter and your typical oem 5.0 ford lifter that goes 200k miles is a link bar. 

20-25 hp may not sound much to you, but it's the difference between a 575 hp engine and a 600 hp engine. 

Other than the price, I see no drawbacks.  When you're starting from scratch and neec evetything, that price differential is even less.

4419
FE Technical Forum / Re: A few old school builds....
« on: November 18, 2013, 07:13:49 PM »
Well, I was actually going to give it a shot, but things just keep stacking up against me.  Took a piece of all-thread and stabbed it down the oil drains to clear out the junk....pulled the distributor and looked into the valley, didn't look too bad, so I continued on.  Took the thermostat housing off and pulled the thermostat out, then put a new gasket on and bolted it back on. 

The dyno I use is a Stuska and the way the cart is made, short exhaust manifolds just won't clear the cart.  So, I started to remove the manifolds and every single one is frozen....hahaha  At this point, I just don't have the spare time to try to bust every bolt loose. 

At least I tried...

4420
FE Technical Forum / Re: A few old school builds....
« on: November 17, 2013, 02:29:20 PM »
Isn't it beautiful?


4421
FE Technical Forum / Re: Educate Me on Roller Cams and the FE
« on: November 16, 2013, 07:40:42 PM »
One of the good things about a roller is that you get to skip the flat tappet break-in dance....hahaha

If you're starting from scratch on a build, the price difference isn't all that bad.  Even if you went flat tappet, you can count on spending about $200 for a cam/lifter set, new springs/retainers, possibly new pushrods, etc.   When you compare that to a hydraulic roller setup, you're really not too far off in the overall scheme of things.  Being able to just turn the key and skip the cam break-in is a blessing in itself.

I get about 6000-6100 before I see valve float on the dyno with a hydraulic roller.  I use Comp Cams hydraulic roller grinds that are very mild.  That seems to help.  I also use Morel lifters.  That particular combo is actually cheaper than a Crane setup.  About $350 for the cam (billet steel core), $385 for the lifters.  Valve springs and retainers don't need to be too exotic, usually around the same price as the equivilent new valve springs/retainers for a nice flat tappet build.  As Jay mentioned, you will need a steel distributor gear.  Crane sells them for about $70.  Mallory also has them for quite a bit less. 

4422
FE Technical Forum / Re: A few old school builds....
« on: November 16, 2013, 07:32:07 PM »
Yeah, I'm bummed.  Ive been looking more forward to dynoing this 352 than anything else lately....just for the pure stupidity of it...ROFL

Maybe if I had more time to qualify it, but at this point, it just looks like too much trouble.

4423
FE Technical Forum / Re: A few old school builds....
« on: November 16, 2013, 06:14:33 PM »
Well, unfortunately, the 352 will not be dyno'd.  I picked it up today and in my mind it's more of a liability to the dyno room than anything else.   And since it's not my dyno, I would rather not be responsible.  :-)  The carb was completely full of trash and when I pulled a valve cover, the oil drains were completely full of sludge, as well as everything else under the valve cover....hahaha

With a 1/2" drive ratchet and socket on the balancer bolt, it took all of 2 fingers to turn her over....with the plugs in.  I can't imagine this thing would be a barn-burner fresh off the showroom floor, but especially not now. 

Was really wanting to have some play time with it, mainly just for curiosity's sake.  Just not a prudent decision at this point, so I'll pull it all apart when I get a free moment.  Just hope it's standard bore.  I can tell it's had gasket swaps, so who knows what I will find.

4424
FE Technical Forum / Re: O/T - Sorta... Pistons Stuck in Bores
« on: November 15, 2013, 07:18:08 PM »
Well, the way I look at it, you really don't have anything to lose.  You can't use it the way it is and there's no way of seeing what you have until you get the pistons out.

I would take a piece of wood and a 3 lb hammer and try to drive them down instead of up.  If there's rust and ridge both, that could really make things rough for you.  Just try to drive the pistons and rods down towards the crankcase.

4425
FE Technical Forum / Re: Engine Advice for '67 Mustang Fastback
« on: November 15, 2013, 08:41:09 AM »
A 445 would make for a nice engine package for your Mustang.  Coupled with a TKO, you could practically make it a modernized torque monster that's a pleasure to drive. 

A 445 rotating assembly is the most cost effective way of getting usable horsepower and torque out of your 390.  There are a couple of different strokes available, but they all are the same price...so there's no use in my mind in paying the same amount for a smaller engine.  With ported Edelbrock heads, I think you could meet your horsepower goal, even at your elevation. 

With your Mustang, you will probably have a few bouts with "room" as far as the engine and transmission go.   The TKO will require some slight massaging of the trans tunnel, along with a custom cross member and a few other goodies.  The Victor FE intake with MPFI would be nice, but you would have to take a close look at how much hood clearance you have.  The Performer RPM with an EZ-EFI system or an MSD system would be a good compromise for you.  A 3.70 rear gear with a 445 and a TKO 600 would make for a screamer of a Mustang.

As for short and long blocks, they are available, but if you are unsure of your mechanical abilities, it may be possibly worthwhile to buy a complete running engine, that's been dyno tested and ready to drop in.   The engines that I offer are complete, down to the PCV valve, thermostat, pulleys, belts, etc.  It takes a lot of the guesswork out of installing an engine. 

Pages: 1 ... 293 294 [295] 296 297 298