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Messages - blykins

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4411
FE Technical Forum / Re: What would you do.
« on: August 28, 2015, 06:44:17 AM »
Personally, Jim, I think you'll be on the ragged edge of being able to run high octane pump gas with that combo.  If I were building this engine, I would shoot for around 9.5-9.7 SCR and eyeball the DCR so that it doesn't get over 8. 

I haven't ran your numbers, but maybe you can manipulate the specs and cam timing to give it a good quench distance but not be on the fence as far as compression.  The difference in hp from 9.5 to 10 is going to be negligible, but if it's on the edge and likes to ping you'll be glad you went conservative on the numbers.

4412
FE Technical Forum / Re: What would you do.
« on: August 27, 2015, 05:15:14 PM »
You probably won't notice much difference.  If the current valves are in good shape, I wouldn't bother.  If you need to replace the valves and need a valve job anyway, probably wouldn't hurt anything.

What will help the driveability and the health of the motor the most would be to get a thinner gasket or have the decks cut.  Having over .060" of quench distance is not conducive to a happy engine.

4413
Non-FE Discussion Forum / Re: The Rifleman
« on: August 27, 2015, 05:22:09 AM »
Only shows on Saturday mornings here.....my 3 year old and I usually get up on Saturday mornings and watch several episodes together.  She loves the part at the very beginning where he racks off 9-10 shots....laughs almost every time.

4414
FE Technical Forum / Re: $$$ crank plugs
« on: August 26, 2015, 11:05:06 AM »
Not sure about that one.  I normally remove the factory plugs and replace them with ones I buy from McMaster Carr.  They have a thread locking compound on them. 

4415
FE Technical Forum / Re: $$$ crank plugs
« on: August 26, 2015, 10:06:24 AM »
It will change the balance....

4416
I've mentioned this here before, but I've had great luck with the bolt kits from www.alloyboltz.com.  They are stainless, are around $45-50 for a kit, and come with about everything. 

They come with a flat washer, but I'll put a lock washer under them as well. 

4417
FE Technical Forum / Re: Rocker geometry
« on: August 20, 2015, 12:30:22 PM »
Yes, you can waste a lot of lift that way, if the adjuster is way down.  The pushrod will make more of an arc instead of translating itself into movement that's important. 

If the adjuster is way up, then you can get into pushrod cup/rocker clearance issues. 

4418
FE Technical Forum / Re: Lost oil pressure
« on: August 20, 2015, 12:12:52 PM »
I do know that red tastes better than blue....

4419
FE Technical Forum / Re: Rocker geometry
« on: August 20, 2015, 09:37:13 AM »
The thing is, though, perfect geometry is not always in the dead center of the stem. I usually try to look for getting the most lift that I can. Now that's not saying that I will put the roller on one extreme edge of the tip but I won't be upset if it's not perfectly centered.

Usually when you go through several iterations of either stand height or pushrod length on a stud mounted rocker, you will gain varying amounts of lift by having different patterns. Sometimes it's in the center, sometimes it's off-center a little bit.

I will often mount a dial indicator to the head so that the indicator is on the valve spring retainer. You can measure the net lift this way and see how much you lose.  You will inevitably lose a little bit just because of pushrod deflection, but on a serious application you want to lessen this as much as possible

4420
FE Technical Forum / Re: pressure v volume
« on: August 20, 2015, 08:21:34 AM »
Most of my junk idles at around 20-25 hot and hits around 70 psi at full song.  I use mostly HV pumps but a HV pump does rob horsepower, so in some applications they are not warranted.

An engine is just a combination of controlled internal oil leaks.  If you have control over the bearing clearances, lifter clearance, oil to the top end, oil drainback, and a good quality pan, you can get away with a lot less. 

I've built drag race motors that have 55 psi crossing the stripe at 7500....oil pressure was measured at the rear of the engine, so I would imagine at the front near the pump, the engine is seeing around 65 or so.  On a freshen up, all the bearings looked excellent. 

4421
FE Technical Forum / Re: Lost oil pressure
« on: August 20, 2015, 07:58:40 AM »
May want to pop a couple bearing caps just to ease your mind.

4422
FE Technical Forum / Re: Lost oil pressure
« on: August 20, 2015, 06:21:18 AM »
I feel like I'm in a Loctite bidding war.....anybody using green?  ;)

4423
What part don't you like?  Are you going off the pattern off the tip?

4424
FE Technical Forum / Re: Lost oil pressure
« on: August 20, 2015, 04:59:02 AM »
We managed to get the oil pan off with the engine still in the car, and happy to report we found the problem. The oil pickup bolts had come loose at the pump body, and the pump was sucking air. Everything else looked in good condition.

Not sure exactly why the bolts had come loose. I put this engine together, so only myself to blame. They are ARP bolts, and I am pretty sure I torqued them to spec. I may replace the bolts with some with a bigger head so I can drill and lock wire them. Or should I just reuse the ARP's but use loctite?

Have any regular bolts laying around?  I use "non-fancy" bolts, with lock washers and blue Loctite.

4425
FE Technical Forum / Re: Head Gasket for 390-445 Build
« on: August 17, 2015, 05:28:10 PM »
Ask your brother if he can cut me out a pair of head gaskets, 4.400" bore, .034-.035" thickness.  Cometic has had my order in for 2 weeks and they're saying 2 more.....getting tired of waiting.

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