4381
FE Technical Forum / Re: Cam choice for a '68 CJ Cougar
« on: November 28, 2015, 12:06:23 PM »
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4382
FE Technical Forum / Re: Cam choice for a '68 CJ Cougar
« on: November 28, 2015, 10:34:14 AM »
I don't use Thumpr cams, but I really like their individual lobes for FE hydraulic rollers. They seem to make good torque in my junk but they are not noisy.
I use a 227/233 cam a lot and I think it would be a good choice for this engine. They run at about .560-.570 lift and are easy on parts. It works well on a 110 LSA with a 104 ICL.
That particular cam made 425 hp and 460 lbft in a 428 with factory heads and intake. Plenty of vacuum, really torquey.
And yes, the Morel 5325 would be my lifter choice.
I can give you lobe numbers if you wish.
I use a 227/233 cam a lot and I think it would be a good choice for this engine. They run at about .560-.570 lift and are easy on parts. It works well on a 110 LSA with a 104 ICL.
That particular cam made 425 hp and 460 lbft in a 428 with factory heads and intake. Plenty of vacuum, really torquey.
And yes, the Morel 5325 would be my lifter choice.
I can give you lobe numbers if you wish.
4383
FE Technical Forum / Re: Pro Maxx Heads
« on: November 25, 2015, 11:57:57 AM »
They sent me a set to check out. Look exactly like edelbrocks.
Amen to Barry's comments.
Amen to Barry's comments.
4384
FE Technical Forum / Re: Head choices
« on: November 21, 2015, 05:54:53 PM »
It's always a nice thought to aim for a low-budget build, but it seldom turns out that way. Using (reusing) cast iron heads seems like a cheaper route to take, but unless you have a primo set of heads laying around, I would call your local machinist and ask what he would charge to 1. Pressure test/magnaflux 2. Mill deck surfaces 3. Do a valve job 4. Replace guides 5. Install seats 6. Price for valves
When you start adding up the cost of finding a set of cores, making sure they're good, buying valves, paying for machine work, etc., you'd probably be equal to or over the price of a new set of Edelbrocks/BBM's/Survival heads. Even a set of Edelbrocks out of the box would most likely net better performance for equal or less money.
When you start adding up the cost of finding a set of cores, making sure they're good, buying valves, paying for machine work, etc., you'd probably be equal to or over the price of a new set of Edelbrocks/BBM's/Survival heads. Even a set of Edelbrocks out of the box would most likely net better performance for equal or less money.
4385
FE Technical Forum / Re: Solid roller lifters
« on: November 15, 2015, 07:39:33 PM »
Morel bushed. I use them in my race stuff. Not cheap, little under $1000, but extremely tough and should last forever.
4386
FE Technical Forum / Re: ATI Damper Discussion
« on: November 11, 2015, 03:39:05 PM »
Some of them need to be honed to fit the crank snout.
As for the timing marks, they are notorious for being about 7° off. Easy to fix with some timing tape.
As for the timing marks, they are notorious for being about 7° off. Easy to fix with some timing tape.
4387
FE Technical Forum / Re: Assembly lube
« on: November 07, 2015, 08:14:47 PM »
I use Lucas assembly lube. It's basically green snot, but sticks to everything and doesn't run off. I use it on seals, bearings, and I use oil on the piston skirts and rings.
4388
FE Technical Forum / Re: head and main studs
« on: October 31, 2015, 12:17:01 PM »
I don't use threadlocker on main/head studs.
4389
FE Technical Forum / Re: should I be happy with this?
« on: October 31, 2015, 06:15:58 AM »
EDIT...
I didn't catch that it was Australian $$$.....
I didn't catch that it was Australian $$$.....
4390
FE Technical Forum / Re: New cam
« on: October 27, 2015, 04:51:55 AM »
Unfortunately, I've heard of cam failures after being "broken in" with that machine. It has no way of duplicating the actual lifter bore locations in relation to the camshaft lobes of an actual engine.
4391
FE Technical Forum / Re: clutch flywheel
« on: October 22, 2015, 05:58:57 PM »
It depends on how you want it to drive.
There are single disc clutches that would support that kind of horsepower, but they have the possibility of chattering. The RAM Powergrip HD in an 11" Long would work perfectly fine, give you some "safety factor", and with a light car and a lower rear gear, it would probably be very streetable. However, there's always a possibility that it could chatter....that's my disclaimer.
If you want something that drives like a Honda, then a twin disc, like a McLeod RXT would probably be a better choice. The RST is not a good candidate for a vehicle that will be raced, so you'd have to pay a few hundred more and opt for the RXT.
The flywheel will be your personal choice. IMO, I'd rather have the extra weight of a steel flywheel if you do a lot of light-to-light driving, or if you live in an area where you'd have to take off on a hill, or if your driveway is inclined, etc. The aluminum flywheel will not have the rotating momentum that a steel wheel has, and you will find yourself slipping the clutch to get the car going. I've used both in my own stuff and I prefer the steel.
There are single disc clutches that would support that kind of horsepower, but they have the possibility of chattering. The RAM Powergrip HD in an 11" Long would work perfectly fine, give you some "safety factor", and with a light car and a lower rear gear, it would probably be very streetable. However, there's always a possibility that it could chatter....that's my disclaimer.
If you want something that drives like a Honda, then a twin disc, like a McLeod RXT would probably be a better choice. The RST is not a good candidate for a vehicle that will be raced, so you'd have to pay a few hundred more and opt for the RXT.
The flywheel will be your personal choice. IMO, I'd rather have the extra weight of a steel flywheel if you do a lot of light-to-light driving, or if you live in an area where you'd have to take off on a hill, or if your driveway is inclined, etc. The aluminum flywheel will not have the rotating momentum that a steel wheel has, and you will find yourself slipping the clutch to get the car going. I've used both in my own stuff and I prefer the steel.
4392
FE Technical Forum / Re: Set up questions - 445 build
« on: October 22, 2015, 11:33:59 AM »
You'll be using ball/ball pushrods. A 5/16" .080" wall pushrod will do just fine. You'll need a checker that will span from 8-9"...I'm usually somewhere around 8.680" with my stuff and Morel lifters.
I would set initial timing at around 14-16°, give it 18° mechanical lead.
I would set initial timing at around 14-16°, give it 18° mechanical lead.
4393
FE Technical Forum / Re: Bearing questions
« on: October 19, 2015, 12:13:40 PM »
You can get the Federal Mogul rod bearings as well, with dowel holes.
4394
FE Technical Forum / Re: New cam
« on: October 17, 2015, 10:23:27 AM »
I like a little more exhaust duration in most cases. Scavenging is good.
I also like a tighter LSA when it's prudent. Just gotta keep an eye on overlap on both duration splits and tighter lobe centers. When engine vacuum is paramount, overlap can fight against you.
I also like a tighter LSA when it's prudent. Just gotta keep an eye on overlap on both duration splits and tighter lobe centers. When engine vacuum is paramount, overlap can fight against you.
4395
FE Technical Forum / Re: New cam
« on: October 17, 2015, 07:09:33 AM »
Don't let that stop you....
If you want a custom camshaft, any of us (Barry, Blair, Jay, myself) can spec and send a camshaft to you. If you also decided that you wanted Oregon Cams to do one, you could have it shipped to me and I can forward it to you.
If you want a custom camshaft, any of us (Barry, Blair, Jay, myself) can spec and send a camshaft to you. If you also decided that you wanted Oregon Cams to do one, you could have it shipped to me and I can forward it to you.